I posted a while ago about squirmy front end at speed. I got the balance done and it has improved. I'm changing my lollipop and anti roll bar bushes to polly and getting 4 wheel alignment done. I know one of my back wheels are out a bit. Before I book it in, with my car being 14 years old, it's bound to be pretty seized about the rear adjusters. To save me having to waste money on them releasing the bolts, should I get mucky and do it myself? If so, which ones do I do?
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4 wheel alignment
- Thread starter Sgr74
- Start date
I'd crack off and retighten the following;
RTAB (rear trailing arm bush) housing bolts, think there are 3 or 4 on each side, just in front of the tyre near the drain bungs.
Rear camber adjust - On the lower aren at the hub is the eccentric bolt/washer that adjusts it.
Front camber adjust - Strut top, under bonnet 3 nuts each side. I jacked the front up on mine, loosened the nuts and removed the little camber pin, before liberally applying coppaslip to the mating face of the strut top and underside of strut tower, to allow easy camber adjustment.
Front track rods can be a pain, they have a nut and collet locking system, which seizes. All you can di is back off the nuts and batter it with WD40 or the like, do the nuts back up, and hopefully they will free off easily.
Mike
RTAB (rear trailing arm bush) housing bolts, think there are 3 or 4 on each side, just in front of the tyre near the drain bungs.
Rear camber adjust - On the lower aren at the hub is the eccentric bolt/washer that adjusts it.
Front camber adjust - Strut top, under bonnet 3 nuts each side. I jacked the front up on mine, loosened the nuts and removed the little camber pin, before liberally applying coppaslip to the mating face of the strut top and underside of strut tower, to allow easy camber adjustment.
Front track rods can be a pain, they have a nut and collet locking system, which seizes. All you can di is back off the nuts and batter it with WD40 or the like, do the nuts back up, and hopefully they will free off easily.
Mike