3.0 si - common issues & have I got a deal?

Gg.z495

Member
Hi all

Was hoping for some well needed advice as bit of a z4 novice. I’m looking at a 3.0 si automatic 08 plate with 73k mileage and have a few questions:

1. What are the common things to look out for when buying a z4 of this model + age?
2. Is it ok as a daily driver?
3. Is 73k this classed as ‘high mileage’ ?
4. Car is of great inside and out condition, timing chain replaced last year, two previous oweners - have option to buy for £7.5k.... good deal???

Thank you very much in advance!!
 
I would want to know why the timing chain was replaced & only 73k covered :? that is most definitely not the norm for a N52
 
No problem being a daily driver, unless the journey’s only a few miles in which case it’s not good for the engine.
The electronic water pump can be on thin ice around that mileage, check if it’s been replaced & budget a few hundred if it’s still on the original.
Rob
 
Prices appear to be all over the place at the moment, you only have look at the for sale section on this forum to see that. This one that you are considering is a facelift which you will pay a premium for, but it is an automatic which will generally make a sports car harder to move on. The miles are perhaps slightly lower than average but it’s not a low mileage car. Without knowing anything about the car I would say that (in my opinion), whilst you may not be getting your pants pulled down, you certainly aren’t getting a deal.

I hope that helps.
 
I just bought a 3.0si Auto and love it. For me, you get the best of both worlds with flappy paddles.
Sounds like a very good price, if there are no hidden problems.
 
I dont know if you got a deal as the current market is a bit bonkers but seeing these posts lately I do know I sold mine too cheap :D
 
For that Money and Mileage if its the E85 rag top in my experience having bought both a E85 04 2.5 and an 07 30si -
Tyres Discs and brakes - should all be good or replacement factored into asking price.
Check Rear coil springs intact - difficult to spot as they break right at the bottom and you would need a torch and lay on the ground.
ABS / DSC lights (Pump failure) and Steering angle sensor, wheel speed sensors - Any chance you could borrow a code reader and see if there are any faults logged - even intermittent warnings eventually become permanent. I use both a simple Icarsoft fault reader - fits in your pocket as well as INPA on a laptop.
Have a test drive, should be straight and true no wheel wobble , especually under braking
Dont accept any - "Oh yes it does that occasionally" without understanding what could be about to fail.

Does hood operate smoothly with the windows dropping partially and do the lights go out or still flash?

When was last oil change and what does it say on the miles to service in the speedo window on start up -are they recorded.
(Oil service indiacator) I had to replace VANOS solenoids eventually - car immediately went better and MPG improved significantly.

MPG on a warm engine driven steady should show about 35mpg dropping to mid 20's around town
On a good Mway run at steady 68/70 it is nor unusual to see 38mpg over a 300 mile run.

They are great cars but I would suggest can be very expensive if you are not a moderately good DIY er.

Plenty of advice on here though use it wisely.
I expect a few will disagree with my two pence worth but that is my personal experience.

The issues I speak about were partly why the cars I bought were negotiated on price at the time of purchase.
I accepted evidential faults as I knew I could fix them - but got the price discounted.

For £7.5K I would not expect to have to do anything until the next service due.
(But I would do an immediate oil and filter change anyway)

Good luck, enjot the paddles, buy a dashcam and pay attention to speed cameras!
Take it to Europe and have a blast!
 
Also worth paying attention to the lights, the headlights and fog lights are notorious for getting moisture in which is a bit of a faff to address, or expensive to replace (the headlight units).

The price feels reasonable to me if it’s in good condition and the mileage is below average of not low.

It’s a wonderful type of car, so hope you find a good example.
 
Rucky said:
For that Money and Mileage if its the E85 rag top in my experience having bought both a E85 04 2.5 and an 07 30si -
Tyres Discs and brakes - should all be good or replacement factored into asking price.
Check Rear coil springs intact - difficult to spot as they break right at the bottom and you would need a torch and lay on the ground.
ABS / DSC lights (Pump failure) and Steering angle sensor, wheel speed sensors - Any chance you could borrow a code reader and see if there are any faults logged - even intermittent warnings eventually become permanent. I use both a simple Icarsoft fault reader - fits in your pocket as well as INPA on a laptop.
Have a test drive, should be straight and true no wheel wobble , especually under braking
Dont accept any - "Oh yes it does that occasionally" without understanding what could be about to fail.

Does hood operate smoothly with the windows dropping partially and do the lights go out or still flash?

When was last oil change and what does it say on the miles to service in the speedo window on start up -are they recorded.
(Oil service indiacator) I had to replace VANOS solenoids eventually - car immediately went better and MPG improved significantly.

MPG on a warm engine driven steady should show about 35mpg dropping to mid 20's around town
On a good Mway run at steady 68/70 it is nor unusual to see 38mpg over a 300 mile run.

They are great cars but I would suggest can be very expensive if you are not a moderately good DIY er.

Plenty of advice on here though use it wisely.
I expect a few will disagree with my two pence worth but that is my personal experience.

The issues I speak about were partly why the cars I bought were negotiated on price at the time of purchase.
I accepted evidential faults as I knew I could fix them - but got the price discounted.

For £7.5K I would not expect to have to do anything until the next service due.
(But I would do an immediate oil and filter change anyway)

Good luck, enjot the paddles, buy a dashcam and pay attention to speed cameras!
Take it to Europe and have a blast!

Hi there Rucky!

Thank you very much for all of the knowledge shared. That's very helpful.

You mention that it can become costly if not a DIY’er... I must admit I am not the best at DIY, although, I have heard elsewhere that many tutorials are on YouTube? Do you know if that’s the case and would these videos suffice for a novice like myself?

Thank you!!
Greg
 
The mechanicals and servicing are pretty straightforward and theire is a lot of information on both this site and You Tube - I have found that it is not always accurate but you will get an idea for the tasks involved.
Engine oil changes, brakes and suspension are all within the realms of simple DIY.

The Z4 and my X5 are the first cars I needed a Laptop for to carry out some diagnostics and repair including brakes.
There are a lot of safety and indication systems warning lights etc that you can only rsolve with a code reader.

I suspect that by the time Petrol and Diesels are phased out we will have little choice but to put our vehicles into a dealership for repair so enjoy your Z4 while you can, they are great cars.
 
Gg.z495 said:
Rucky said:
For that Money and Mileage if its the E85 rag top in my experience having bought both a E85 04 2.5 and an 07 30si -
Tyres Discs and brakes - should all be good or replacement factored into asking price.
Check Rear coil springs intact - difficult to spot as they break right at the bottom and you would need a torch and lay on the ground.
ABS / DSC lights (Pump failure) and Steering angle sensor, wheel speed sensors - Any chance you could borrow a code reader and see if there are any faults logged - even intermittent warnings eventually become permanent. I use both a simple Icarsoft fault reader - fits in your pocket as well as INPA on a laptop.
Have a test drive, should be straight and true no wheel wobble , especually under braking
Dont accept any - "Oh yes it does that occasionally" without understanding what could be about to fail.

Does hood operate smoothly with the windows dropping partially and do the lights go out or still flash?

When was last oil change and what does it say on the miles to service in the speedo window on start up -are they recorded.
(Oil service indiacator) I had to replace VANOS solenoids eventually - car immediately went better and MPG improved significantly.

MPG on a warm engine driven steady should show about 35mpg dropping to mid 20's around town
On a good Mway run at steady 68/70 it is nor unusual to see 38mpg over a 300 mile run.

They are great cars but I would suggest can be very expensive if you are not a moderately good DIY er.

Plenty of advice on here though use it wisely.
I expect a few will disagree with my two pence worth but that is my personal experience.

The issues I speak about were partly why the cars I bought were negotiated on price at the time of purchase.
I accepted evidential faults as I knew I could fix them - but got the price discounted.

For £7.5K I would not expect to have to do anything until the next service due.
(But I would do an immediate oil and filter change anyway)

Good luck, enjot the paddles, buy a dashcam and pay attention to speed cameras!
Take it to Europe and have a blast!

Hi there Rucky!

Thank you very much for all of the knowledge shared. That's very helpful.

You mention that it can become costly if not a DIY’er... I must admit I am not the best at DIY, although, I have heard elsewhere that many tutorials are on YouTube? Do you know if that’s the case and would these videos suffice for a novice like myself?

Thank you!!
Greg

Hi Greg I was in your shoes when I bought my Z4 Coupe back in 2018. I didn't want to spend a fortune on servicing costs (or depreciation, hence the car choice), and can say that over 20,000 miles it has been inexpensive to run and fix.

YouTube videos and patience will definitely suffice for most issues. There are some niggly things that may crop up (as with any car this age) that if you are prepared to buy the tools for, watch the YouTube videos of and take the time to fix can be cheap to sort, but ruinously expensive at a dealer and fairly expensive at an Indy.

E.g. in order of "DIY involvement" if the ABS Motor goes, then a BMW dealer will want well over £1000 + labour to fix. An Indy will want about half that. ECU Tuning will want only £250 or so (but you will have to take the motor out yourself and send it off). However if you took the ABS motor out AND fixed the bushes yourself, we are talking less than £20 in parts.

Similar if you need something like a rocker cover gasket (valve cover gasket). Like with all rubber seals, they need replacing at some point. BMW dealer would charge 4 to 5 hours plus parts. Indy would charge the same amount of hours, albeit at lower per hour rate. Cost to you if you DIY'd would be best part of a Saturday plus £30 in parts and about £50 in tools if you had none to begin with.

In short if you are prepared to put in some time, you can save a fortune as the cars themselves are very easy to work on (when compared with more modern equivalents). This is especially the case for the engines - the N52 is fairly "simple" (no Turbo), and the engine bay is massive so you can easily fix stuff without having to take off loads of other ancillary parts (like you would have to with an X3, 1 series, 3 series, 5 series etc where half the engine is inaccessible).

My advice to you would be to go for it. Accept that if you can't DIY a task, then an Indy will be able to sort it for you without wrecking your bank account. Also, buy a dedicated code reader (e.g. C110 for £35). These can read all the computers in the car in detail, and provide you live readouts. This makes problem solving much easier (and cheaper than paying someone else to do it).
 
Gg.z495 said:
You mention that it can become costly if not a DIY’er... I must admit I am not the best at DIY, although, I have heard elsewhere that many tutorials are on YouTube? Do you know if that’s the case and would these videos suffice for a novice like myself?

Greg, with a lot of the jobs it is more a case of confidence. If you have the correct tools and a degree of mechanical sympathy (ie. you can feel when you're about to shear off a bolt :wink: ) then most things can be achieved.
However there is no substitute for experience.
Taking it to a garage will end up very costly. Relying on Youtube can sometimes lead you into trouble.
My suggestion would be to maybe find someone near you from the forum who does their own fixing and try to learn from them.
If a fault crops up it's always to the forum for research and advice for me. From that I can decide how much is achievable on my drive. Then I ask for pointers from those who went before.
Some really helpful members have even sent me their mobile numbers and said ring if you get stuck.
Unless you have a go you'll always be a novice. We all had to start somewhere.
 
Bit strange the timing chain was replaced with that relatively low mileage, I would definitely want to know why is was necessary to do this work..
Having said that I have a 2006 E85 and BMW deemed it necessary to change the timing chain when in actual fact the problem with the car had nothing to do with the chain whatsoever... Try and find out a wee bit more about its history...
 
ABS Pump
Water Pump
Starter Motor
Window Regulator
Coil Packs
Sensors
Bushes
Spring should be treated as a consumable.
Brake discs and pads
Suspension

You're possibly buying a car that's 13 years old so things will go wrong, will need fixed or need replaced.

Get the car checked by the AA or RAC before making an offer.

Budget for at least £1000 on getting things fixed.

Check the MOT history.
 
Gg.z495 said:
You mention that it can become costly if not a DIY’er... I must admit I am not the best at DIY, although, I have heard elsewhere that many tutorials are on YouTube? Do you know if that’s the case and would these videos suffice for a novice like myself?

Thank you!!
Greg

Hi Greg and welcome to the forum.

Most jobs on the z4 can be done with a bit of common sense and patience. Good problem solving ability and a sense of humour helps as well!

You will need some tools. The z4 needs some “special” tools not found in your average Halfords/Amazon tool kit (or, as I have, collected over time) e.g. 16mm and 18mm sockets, torx keys, torx wrenches, breaker bar, to name a few which I have had to acquire during Z ownership.

Good luck, it’s a rewarding car to work on.
 
Thanks to you all for your kind words and sharing your advice + knowledge. It’s much appreciated.

Can confirm I’m off for the viewing on Saturday and if all is in good order, I’m going to go for it!! :D

Cheers :thumbsup:
 
Thank you to everyone for the advice and knowledge shared. Some really helpful bits of information there and I feel much more confident proceeding with this.

I have arranged the viewing for this saturday and if all is in order I will be going for it! Exciting stuff...

The following advisories are pulling through on the MOT check but the garage are telling me they'll get the MOT cleaned out prior to service.
  • Nearside Front Brake hose slightly deteriorated (1.1.12 (b) (ii))
    Offside Front Brake hose slightly deteriorated (1.1.12 (b) (ii))
    Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement rear bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))
    Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement rear bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))
    Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))
    Offside Front Suspension arm ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Can anyone advise if any of these are signs of problems to come?

Thank you!
 
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