3.0 2005. Cranks no start... Help pls!

[Rix]

Howdy...

My Z has been off the road for about 2 years after a flat battery (new battery since fitted) and just won't start... I did get it started initially back then but it ran 'lumpy' with no response to inputs from the throttle, and shortly after it then it died on me. Have not been able to restart since...

Spent a little time on it today, checked all fuses, checked the fuel pump relay, and even directly ran the fuel pump from a 12v feed via the relay pick up and tried starting. Nothing...

Weirdly, when I replace the relay I cannot hear the fuel pump operating, but can only conclude it's not getting either a spark nor fuel (based on me trying to start it whilst fuel pump was powered), tho I've not tested the spark directly yet.

I have a code reader but it does not seem to recognise the engine control module / DME and times out. It does pick up the key and tells me it is valid, suggesting that it isn't an immobiliser/key problem.

Anyone with any ideas please? Id really like to get it going again!

 

[enuff_zed]

Sounds akin to my ongoing issue.
Mine started messing about after I'd left the battery off for about a month. Wonder if that's coincidence or a common denominator?
It runs lumpy with no response to the throttle and cuts out after about a minute.
After a few attempts I have to leave it a while as it won't start: I assume due to flooding?
I have changed the throttle body and checked every electrical connection and hose to no avail.
I am getting a 'checksum' DME error amongst others.
Getting the DME reflashed on Wednesday so keep an eye on my thread for updates.

Have you reset any codes? I discovered if I reset them while it is hunting then it runs fine for about 10 seconds then gives up again.

 

[Rix]

Cheers, just looked at your thread - yeah the way yours is running sounds exactly like mine was the one time I got it going. I wondered at the time whether that was due to some residual fuel it was burning off but doesn't sound like it if yours continuously repeats the same. I'm also totally convinced it's due to be letting the battery die and even wondered if I had fried the DME seeing as I can't get the code reader to see it! Like you it was running perfectly before the battery issue.

I did have a load of codes but wiped them without now any recollection of what they were (doh!!). Since clearing them I get no codes!

 

[enuff_zed]

Cheers, just looked at your thread - yeah the way yours is running sounds exactly like mine was the one time I got it going. I wondered at the time whether that was due to some residual fuel it was burning off but doesn't sound like it if yours continuously repeats the same. I'm also totally convinced it's due to be letting the battery die and even wondered if I had fried the DME seeing as I can't get the code reader to see it! Like you it was running perfectly before the battery issue.

I did have a load of codes but wiped them without now any recollection of what they were (doh!!). Since clearing them I get no codes!

I guess if it won't even start then there'll may be no time to record codes.
Mine only flags them up after 10 seconds which implies it is doing some kind of self test.
[ref]bigwinn[/ref] is coming over to reflash my DME. If you want to join me in a few prayers then maybe if it works he could help you out too, depending where you are?

 

[Rix]

Haha, yes fingers crossed for you! I have the C310+ code reader as it seemed to be recommended but have no idea whether I should expect it to see the DME module ok - it's a bit of a worry that it does not! Just checked your location in case we happened to be neighbours but alas - I'm down near Stansted so probably a little far! Will be interesting to hear whether a reflash assists but I'm otherwise out of ideas so may need to admit defeat and send it off to a specialist! Good luck.....

 

[javis20]

I had this problem on my E89. Car wouldn't start for 3 days. Turned out to be either the Vanos solenoids or the cam shaft position sensors. I don't know which because I cleaned both solenoids and both sensors and the problem went away. Very easy repair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LInnGVZEFKI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL2aDiTy_Hg

All I did was clean and oil both the solenoids and wipe off the sensors and I was good to go. Remember you need an E8 socket to remove the sensors. You can use 12vdc to exercise the Vanos solenoids to make sure they work.

Worth a try... Easy and cost nothing.

 

[Rix]

That's my Sunday morning sorted!

 

[spazmochad]

Haha, yes fingers crossed for you! I have the C310+ code reader as it seemed to be recommended but have no idea whether I should expect it to see the DME module ok - it's a bit of a worry that it does not! Just checked your location in case we happened to be neighbours but alas - I'm down near Stansted so probably a little far! Will be interesting to hear whether a reflash assists but I'm otherwise out of ideas so may need to admit defeat and send it off to a specialist! Good luck.....

Whereabout was the relay located you were trying for the fuel pump? I only ask because the specialist I took mine to originally with the same issue, said they replaced mine, when they didn't. They mistakenly replaced the navy blue / light green ones near the the DME, which if I recall, are for the reverse light and turning stuff off during ignition. The fuel pump relay for my 03 3.0 is located behind the fuse box in the glove compartment.

In any case I highly recommend a KCAN cable from eBay and a copy of INPA on a laptop to give you much better access to codes and other diagnostic tools. You can find the software here: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads

Mine also started having trouble after not driving it during lockdown and it took me months to figure out.

 

[spazmochad]

I had this problem on my E89. Car wouldn't start for 3 days. Turned out to be either the Vanos solenoids or the cam shaft position sensors. I don't know which because I cleaned both solenoids and both sensors and the problem went away. Very easy repair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LInnGVZEFKI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL2aDiTy_Hg

All I did was clean and oil both the solenoids and wipe off the sensors and I was good to go. Remember you need an E8 socket to remove the sensors. You can use 12vdc to exercise the Vanos solenoids to make sure they work.

Worth a try... Easy and cost nothing.

Being a 2005 car, I think OP has an M54 engine, whereas this is more common on the N52.

 

[Rix]

Whereabout was the relay located you were trying for the fuel pump? I only ask because the specialist I took mine to originally with the same issue, said they replaced mine, when they didn't. They mistakenly replaced the navy blue / light green ones near the the DME, which if I recall, are for the reverse light and turning stuff off during ignition. The fuel pump relay for my 03 3.0 is located behind the fuse box in the glove compartment.

In any case I highly recommend a KCAN cable from eBay and a copy of INPA on a laptop to give you much better access to codes and other diagnostic tools. You can find the software here: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads

Mine also started having trouble after not driving it during lockdown and it took me months to figure out.

Yep, behind the fuse box as you say - I was originally looking for a control module in the boot but I think that's only on the later cars. Luckily a forum post pointed the relay out (albeit it seems to be working fine). Cheers for the info on the laptop alternative - might give that a go

 

[Rix]

Being a 2005 car, I think OP has an M54 engine, whereas this is more common on the N52.

Yep, its old older lump as you suggest