2003 Z4 E85 2.5l BCM (GM5) Module Replacement

mixtli

Member
Hi guys,

I'm pretty convinced I have a problem with the BCM module on my 2003 E85 Z4. I would swap it out but I'm having a very hard time finding a direct replacement. The part number I'm after is 6931707 but I just can't get my hands pon one. Does anyone know whether any others with different part numbers might do the job? I know it must not be replaced with a Star-12.

Anyone care to enlighten me? :)
 
Have you considered having it diagnosed and repaired? I believe there are several firms that offer the service. I vaguely recall there being a recommended e-bay guy.
 
mixtli said:
Hi guys,

I'm pretty convinced I have a problem with the BCM module on my 2003 E85 Z4. I would swap it out but I'm having a very hard time finding a direct replacement. The part number I'm after is 6931707 but I just can't get my hands pon one. Does anyone know whether any others with different part numbers might do the job? I know it must not be replaced with a Star-12.

Anyone care to enlighten me? :)
Sounds like Barry has you sorted, but basically you can have either a 5RD or a Star 12 Low. Provided you replace like for like the part number isn't really an issue.
Then just pair your keys to it.
You may find it has different options coded, but those are fairly straightforward to resolve.
 
I've spoken to Barry (amazing to have such a knowledgeable expert so close!) and I look forward to speaking to him again about this problem.

In the meantime....I replaced the GM5 module with a used one and I'm pleased to say that it works better than the old one. The lights don't play up any more (which was one of the problems - . The windows still go up and down, the wipers still work, boot lid is still all good and the central locking still works well with the button on the centre console. That's the good news.

But there is still no reaction from the key fob which was the orginal big problem. Does the GM5 need to be coded to the car before the key fob will work? I've tried to re-pair the key to the car but it is still unresponsive. Ideas?
 
mixtli said:
I've spoken to Barry (amazing to have such a knowledgeable expert so close!) and I look forward to speaking to him again about this problem.

In the meantime....I replaced the GM5 module with a used one and I'm pleased to say that it works better than the old one. The lights don't play up any more (which was one of the problems - . The windows still go up and down, the wipers still work, boot lid is still all good and the central locking still works well with the button on the centre console. That's the good news.

But there is still no reaction from the key fob which was the orginal big problem. Does the GM5 need to be coded to the car before the key fob will work? I've tried to re-pair the key to the car but it is still unresponsive. Ideas?
I assume you did the correct pairing procedure?
If still nothing, try putting the key on a toothbrush charger for a day or so.
If still nothing then you need a new battery.
I sent mine to The Master Locksmith in London. Excellent service and you can't even tell it's been opened up.
 
They fob is good and the battery is well charged. I've tested it with a signal detector. I think the procedures I've used are good. There's two ways as far as I know. One is to turn the ignition to position 1 five times quickly then hold the open button and press unlock 3 times, after 15 seconds, release the open button then plug back into the ingition. The other is to turn to position 1 then quickly disconnect then follow the button sequence as above. No reaction from either method. Maybe someone knows another way?
 
mixtli said:
They fob is good and the battery is well charged. I've tested it with a signal detector. I think the procedures I've used are good. There's two ways as far as I know. One is to turn the ignition to position 1 five times quickly then hold the open button and press unlock 3 times, after 15 seconds, release the open button then plug back into the ingition. The other is to turn to position 1 then quickly disconnect then follow the button sequence as above. No reaction from either method. Maybe someone knows another way?
the following should be done from inside the car, with both doors, bonnet and boot closed and windows up.
1. Turn to position 2.
2. Then turn off.
3. Remove key.
4. Hold unlock button down and press Lock button three times.
When you release you should see/hear the car lock then unlock.
5. Repeat step 4 only with each key in turn.
 
Thanks Enuff. I've tried that but no reaction at all. I'm starting to suspect the EWS or the receiver in the rear view mirror. It's an auto-dimming one that doesn't seem to work at all so I'm wondering if there is no power getting to it and hence the receiver is not 'alive'. I've checked and double checked all the fuses.
 
mixtli said:
Thanks Enuff. I've tried that but no reaction at all. I'm starting to suspect the EWS or the receiver in the rear view mirror. It's an auto-dimming one that doesn't seem to work at all so I'm wondering if there is no power getting to it and hence the receiver is not 'alive'. I've checked and double checked all the fuses.
OK, daft question time. Is it connected? Pop off the two trims behind the mirror and you should be able to see the plug.
 
enuff_zed said:
mixtli said:
Thanks Enuff. I've tried that but no reaction at all. I'm starting to suspect the EWS or the receiver in the rear view mirror. It's an auto-dimming one that doesn't seem to work at all so I'm wondering if there is no power getting to it and hence the receiver is not 'alive'. I've checked and double checked all the fuses.
OK, daft question time. Is it connected? Pop off the two trims behind the mirror and you should be able to see the plug.
Also, I emphasised ignition position TWO as you said you only turned it to ONE?
 
Hi enuff_zed. Yes. I've tried the process at both position 1 and positon 2, standing on my head, jumping up and down.... It's as lifeless as a roadkill rat. I've checked the two circuit boards in the rear view mirror and they look intact: no moisture damage, dry joints etc. I think I'll do a swap test as soon as I get a moment but I understand it can be fraught and the key will need to be paired with it using the key pairing methods?
 
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