I recently discovered completely by random that it appears my drivers side door lock cylinder is buggered. It simply spins forever and never engages. (I'd never used it since buying the car since I always use the remote - it was whilst doing other work with battery disconnected that I discovered the issue! - that'll teach me for not testing it beforehand... anyways...)
With some bloody effort I managed to remove the door handle which I swear was far harder than it's supposed to be! I then proceeded to remove the barrel / cylinder. Having searched the forum (and google, and many other forums) I've yet to find any detailed info on the problem other than the odd report of people just changing the cylinder.
Upon investigation it would appear that the cylinder is missing 1) a circlip or similar retaining clip and also 2) some kind of pin or rod or even a ball bearing maybe...
I was wondering is anyone might be able to fill me in with what's missing. After some playing around, I placed a piece of match stick in (2) in the pic below, and thin washer in hole (1) (small enough to sit in the lip of the inner barrel). This seems to "fix" the lock but I wanted some input on what I was actually missing or how it SHOULD be. (Since TIS is useless and doesn't go into the inner working/design of the cylinder itself)
Here's a pic of the barrel removed from my car. Ignore the mess I made with the grips getting the thing to turn in order to remove it, since the key just spins in the barrel I couldn't just turn it 90 degrees and pull like the TIS suggests.

If I push on the key entry point, it obviously pushes the innards down. Although I believe the clip in (1) is supposed to stop it moving backwards like I have pushed it.

My assumption (using the pic below as reference for (1) & (2)) is that (1) is supposed to have a retaining clip that stops the inner barrel moving back and forth. I then assume that (2) should be some kind of pin. I'm guessing perhaps that the lock is designed in an anti-theft manor - so that, for example, if someone put a screwdriver in the key end, and walloped it with a hammer... a) the retaining clip snaps or falls out, and b) the pin is "ejected" or falls out or whatever, so that it completely disengages so that the barrel spins freely and potential thieves can't just smash a screwdriver in and then turn it?

I've already ordered myself a replacement cylinder with 2 keys, but it would be nice if I was able to repair my own so that I only need the one key for all locks. (I really don't fancy messing with the coded pins etc)
With some bloody effort I managed to remove the door handle which I swear was far harder than it's supposed to be! I then proceeded to remove the barrel / cylinder. Having searched the forum (and google, and many other forums) I've yet to find any detailed info on the problem other than the odd report of people just changing the cylinder.
Upon investigation it would appear that the cylinder is missing 1) a circlip or similar retaining clip and also 2) some kind of pin or rod or even a ball bearing maybe...
I was wondering is anyone might be able to fill me in with what's missing. After some playing around, I placed a piece of match stick in (2) in the pic below, and thin washer in hole (1) (small enough to sit in the lip of the inner barrel). This seems to "fix" the lock but I wanted some input on what I was actually missing or how it SHOULD be. (Since TIS is useless and doesn't go into the inner working/design of the cylinder itself)
Here's a pic of the barrel removed from my car. Ignore the mess I made with the grips getting the thing to turn in order to remove it, since the key just spins in the barrel I couldn't just turn it 90 degrees and pull like the TIS suggests.

If I push on the key entry point, it obviously pushes the innards down. Although I believe the clip in (1) is supposed to stop it moving backwards like I have pushed it.

My assumption (using the pic below as reference for (1) & (2)) is that (1) is supposed to have a retaining clip that stops the inner barrel moving back and forth. I then assume that (2) should be some kind of pin. I'm guessing perhaps that the lock is designed in an anti-theft manor - so that, for example, if someone put a screwdriver in the key end, and walloped it with a hammer... a) the retaining clip snaps or falls out, and b) the pin is "ejected" or falls out or whatever, so that it completely disengages so that the barrel spins freely and potential thieves can't just smash a screwdriver in and then turn it?

I've already ordered myself a replacement cylinder with 2 keys, but it would be nice if I was able to repair my own so that I only need the one key for all locks. (I really don't fancy messing with the coded pins etc)