108 Broken stud removal

S

sk93

Lifer
Thinking about having a go at refurbing one of the three sets of 108's I currently own :?

However, I know for a fact one set has at least two broken studs (the bolts that hold the stars to the rim), and knowing my luck, I'm bound to break at least another 12...

so.. how does one go about removing the broken part of the stud?
I'm pretty sure there's naff all sticking out to grab hold of and twist.

Drill it out? easiout? something else?

Did a search, found people pm'ing each other the recommended way of removing them, but not sharing that knowledge publically.

someone care to share?
 
sk93 said:
Thinking about having a go at refurbing one of the three sets of 108's I currently own :?

However, I know for a fact one set has at least two broken studs (the bolts that hold the stars to the rim), and knowing my luck, I'm bound to break at least another 12...

so.. how does one go about removing the broken part of the stud?
I'm pretty sure there's naff all sticking out to grab hold of and twist.

Drill it out? easiout? something else?

Did a search, found people pm'ing each other the recommended way of removing them, but not sharing that knowledge publically.

someone care to share?
Click to expand...
Drilling Titanium isn't easy - IIRC because titanium work-hardens you need to drill at very low speed and high pressure using something like a carbide/cobalt bit with lots of cutting fluid. Given that it's a small diameter bolt, I wouldn't like to try it freehand, do you have access to a drill press?

I'd try an easyout or other extraction tool first - but what do I know, I put my wheels on back to front :wink:
 
I found the easiest way to remove a stud once the centre star part is off is to grind 2 flat surfaces onto the protruding stud with a small angle grinder :o then take a very small spanner that fits & turn it out :?
Actually drilling a head off in order to remove the star can be done quite easily with the correct size drill bit ( a fraction bigger than the actual thread of the bolt )
My best advice from the off is to strike each bolt hard 2/3 times with a lump hammer & a long spline ( wear ear defenders) , also with the wheel flat down remove the bolts in a star like fashion so opposie side of wheel each time .
Lastly if you feel one won't move just leave it , come back to it at the end & majority of times it will loosen ,even if you leave for a day or so then keep trying
:thumbsup:

oh & DON't use a torgue wrench :cry: best to get a feel for what will & won't move :wink:
 
srhutch said:
mr wilks said:
oh & DON't use a torgue wrench :cry: best to get a feel for what will & won't move :wink:
Click to expand...

:o

You shouldn't use a torque wrench to undo bolts.
Click to expand...

Haha , i don't even have one , i just read many people asking for torque settings to tighten them & wouldn't want someone to try removing them with same setting as they are likely to round off a good few :oops:
Even tightening i wouldn't advise following the numbers as they were set for new rims/new bolts which clearly a used set of 108s are not & especially so if the rims have had a blast,powdercoat oven bake :?
You should get a feel once they are tight then leave alone for a day or 2 , then go back & check them all as you can often get a little turn extra that way :thumbsup:
 
Just seen this... You bring them to me my friend. And this will be another job I can do for you.

Drilling Ti is OK if you have the correct tools and cutting fluids. And a bit of knowledge to get the correct cutting speed. A pilla or bench drill will help. Guess what i have all of the above....
 
Machine monkey said:
Just seen this... You bring them to me my friend. And this will be another job I can do for you.

Drilling Ti is OK if you have the correct tools and cutting fluids. And a bit of knowledge to get the correct cutting speed. A pilla or bench drill will help. Guess what i have all of the above....
Click to expand...

I'll bring em down with me then sir! (and some more beer tokens)
yay for monkeys! :thumbsup:
 
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