OK - here's a bit of a trip report from one of our days, along with some pics - more to follow.
Day 3 – Fluella, Stelvio, Bernina & more
The day of the passes, starts with rain, dark clouds, and a frustrating encounter with an unmanned Davos petrol pump (though ultimately I score a bargain half tank for €20 !)
First pass of the day, Fluella is on the doorstep of Davos, which we tackle roof up in steady rain, climbing quickly and a little nervously hoping for improving conditions.
We elect not to drive through the Livigno tunnel knowing that another option will arise later and soon find ourselves tailing a rather usefully quick, pace setting Swiss Polizie Volvo, the driver of which I feel might know the pass rather better than this Alpine Pass virgin. He seems unperturbed by our presence, I keep a reasonable distance and try to recall how to switch off the Tom Tom Speed Camera / POI feature, confident that is the only Swiss motoring law I am breaking for now. Our uniformed friend stops soon in a hotel, meets another cop car and we’re sure they’re stopping for coffee and some fondue flirting with their female colleague.
We then spot a rather tasty 911 Carrera (997) and an Audi TT RS in a layby, we guess waiting for better weather for a similar attack as us. We stop a little later and bravely drop the roof, manage a few quick pics and they pass- quickly - never to be seen again.
At the suggestion of ultimatedrives.net I’ve chosen to attack the Stelvio from the National Park side where we still have the roof down. The drive through the park is nice and fairly quick though we fail to spot that classic shot of the Stelvio’s 48 Northern side hairpins - still not sure where that shot is taken from - so for a few miles we keep asking each other “are we on the Stelvio now ? ” we’ve easily rounded a dozen or so hairpins. A few months back a friend with a 3 series BMW confessed to me that he and his partner failed to find Stelvio !
We’re now certain we’re on it proper, it’s not really possible to attack it very fast now, 2nd or 3rd gear only and my SMG gearbox is in its’ element in manual sport mode, it’s crazy tight and now the roof is up again due to steady cold rain. Visibility round the hairpins is of course limited, so much more fun with the roof down when you can better see right round. There are a number of bikers, a few tasty cars, we spot a couple of Lotus (Loti ? ) Exige descending towards us – they’re tiny so limited risk of kissing door mirrors. We do get stuck behind a camper van and another car, the former miraculously manages to find a spot to kindly pull in to allow us to pass.
I feel I’m well in the groove now and more confident in accelerating as hard as possible out of each bend, the earlier anxious whimpers from mrs jax have settled a little and she returns to camera duties. With one battery failing, a camera swap ensues to maintain some video, whilst she manages to get some stills from the DSLR, some of sky, some of snow, wall and the occasional bit of winding road.
It’s snowing now quite steady (we hadn’t really bargained on snow though have came prepared for all weathers with most of our luggage back in Davos). The Zed and his new rear nicely scrubbed in Vreds is behaving impeccably and I make no apologies for keeping DSC firmly off (i.e full traction control active), this is no place for a heroic rear end slide - those walls are way too close and crunchy.
The 2757m summit approaches, I can smell the currywurtz stalls (but avoid) and we find possibly the best parking spot and hotel coffee stop right opposite the mock cycling award rostrum, where an Aussie guy who has just climbed from the other side in a recumbent bike is trying hard to get a bystander to take a decent pic of him -yes we should have helped but in our defence, we were across the snowy street, upstairs in a cozy coffee shop with a cappuccino and a (shared) apple struddle. Anyone who can climb the Stelvio on a cycle, recumbent or otherwise deserves every respect.
Descending the other side, where I’m sure the road surface has been freshly clay barred and many of the hairpins are utterly transparent we stop briefly at a T junction and make a change of plan as the route to the left looks delightful and we just need to take it. This proves a good choice as we descend further into the Italian valleys where the roof is down again the temperature rises from -1 at the top of the Stelvio to 25 degrees! Bizarre.
The journey towards Tribano is fabulous and we stop for ice cream just across the Swiss border, after the Swiss Border Guard quizzes us if we have anything to declare, other than our grins – I guess he realizes there’s little room for serious contraband in a little zed so nonchalantly waves us through. We leave soon not knowing the best drive of the day lies ahead. . .
Rising to the Bernina Pass (not to be confused with the San Bernardino, which lies too far to the west of our base at Davos for this trip) the sun is out, the roof still down and the scenery is gobsmackingly swiss chocolate box pretty and the surface proves grippy and smooth. There’s little traffic and a Swiss 5 series touring seems miffed at a top down tourist up his chuff but quickly concedes (video available) and we have an empty road ahead, clear views and the memories of the earlier Polizie Volvo distant. This is surely the best section of the day and we eventually catch up with a zesty little Audi A1 whose driver is happy to similarly press on.
Ultimately we descend from Bernina – this road feels truly like a Scottish forum run, wide, flowing, traffic free but alas no fish ‘n chips. Our little TomTom XL makes one of only two mistakes in the entire trip and takes us on a short detour of a very picturesque village (Maragls we think), the respite offering a rather welcome breather, we loop back and we’re back en route to St.Moritz / Davos and the Fluella Pass for the second time today. We’ve already dismissed the Livigno tunnel idea as we’ve driven through so many fabulous sounding tunnels today and over the last few days, many of which were much more fun than the regimented convoy that Livigno sounds. Sound clips are available somewhere.
It’s raining heavy again and the fog reduces visibility to Hammer Horror movie levels so we tiptoe up/down Fluella with all lights blazing and few other cars around - damn this Scottish like weather and our choice of a lollipop shaped route.
We’re weirdly grateful for the mixed conditions as they added a degree of drama to the day, not that the Stelvio cries out for much added drama. The final descent from Fluella improves as the fog lifts and of course I know this section so well now.
For dinner that night we walk out of our hotel, the Davos Sheraton, in heavy rain wearing shorts (as legs dry easier than jeans) and find one of just a few restaurants open for a slightly disappointing meal but some fabulous driving memories, both thinking if only today could have been a forum run and the fun and memories shared with some forum friends.
Tomorrow it’s Austria, Lichtenstein, the Silvrettestrasse and back into Germany and the Romantic Road . . . .