Track Day Recommendations & Help

[Nocturnal]

Hello,

I am looking to track my 2004 Z4 3.0i.

I believe I need to replace my rotors, but definitely pads. I was wondering if anyone has any recommendation? I was looking on FCP euro due to easy shipping, does anyone have experience or can recommend whether or not the Zimmerman Rotors are fine (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-disc-front-e46-z3-z4-34116855152)?

Also, any recommendations for brake fluid? Will likely need to flush and replace fluid.

What general maintenance should I do to the vehicle to prep for a track day?

Any tire recommendations as well? Right now the car has 2024 date code rear tires (bought them 1 year ago) and 2021 date code fronts (came with the car when I purchased it early last year). I believe the previous owner didn't drive the car at all, the tread is still plentiful. However, for a track day, I'm a little cautious about the date code. The tires on the car are all Michelin Pilot Sport 4s.

Is there any way to increase the sensitive of the EPS, I feel like it's quite numb and then all of a sudden it gives resistance. Makes it very hard to steer when increasing speed or going at high speed. Wish it was hydraulic!

Thank you!

 

[Ed Doe]

I'd do engine service (oil and filter), check the coolant levels, refresh the brake fluid - something like motul rbf600 or 660 would be great.

Pads I'd go for something like ferodo ds2500 or mintex 1144 or 1155 - you don't need anything really fancy on your first few trackdays. I would replace the discs too as new discs will be less prone to warping, and will bed nicely against the new pads rather than

Other than that I'd keep a careful eye on your tyre pressures, aiming for between 30-35psi hot, and just enjoy the car - ideally you'll start figuring out a list of things you want to upgrade after your first few trackdays - then it gets expensive!

 

[damocell]

First of all ,join the Z4 Track Day Group on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/520863040768702

Loads of us are in there, and you'll probably get a better response.

Tyres, stick with PS4S for your first few days. Those date codes will be fine for now. Plus it's better to learn on road tyres rather than semi-slicks, as high-grip tyres can mask slides and it's more difficult to get the maximum out of them, plus you'll get a better and quicker feel for when the tyres are overheating.

Fluid, I use ATE Type 200 mainly for its long service life, but I change it yearly anyway. Motul RBF600/660 is also good.

Your pad choice is more important than rotor choice. Stick to a plain, high carbon rotor.

General maintenance: check fluid levels, make sure your wheel bolts are tight when cold, check wheel bearings; above all, have fun. Defo book tuition if you can, its the easiest way to get better/faster.

Steering, the EPS is crap. Only way to make it better is to go hydraulic. But you can alter the gear mesh on the column, which might help a little but can make the car nervous or numb, depending on which way you go.

 

[Nocturnal]

First of all ,join the Z4 Track Day Group on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/520863040768702

Loads of us are in there, and you'll probably get a better response.

Tyres, stick with PS4S for your first few days. Those date codes will be fine for now. Plus it's better to learn on road tyres rather than semi-slicks, as high-grip tyres can mask slides and it's more difficult to get the maximum out of them, plus you'll get a better and quicker feel for when the tyres are overheating.

Fluid, I use ATE Type 200 mainly for its long service life, but I change it yearly anyway. Motul RBF600/660 is also good.

Your pad choice is more important than rotor choice. Stick to a plain, high carbon rotor.

General maintenance: check fluid levels, make sure your wheel bolts are tight when cold, check wheel bearings; above all, have fun. Defo book tuition if you can, its the easiest way to get better/faster.

Steering, the EPS is crap. Only way to make it better is to go hydraulic. But you can alter the gear mesh on the column, which might help a little but can make the car nervous or numb, depending on which way you go.

Thanks, I requested to join the group. I want to learn the limits much better, so that makes sense. Sounds like I'll be fine buying the Zimmerman rotors, but then buying better pads. Any recommendations on pads?

Also, I agree! I hate the EPS, it's sooooo numb . Do you track w/ EPS or did you swap to hydraulic?

 

[damocell]

I've tracked with EPS and just moved to an electric hydraulic setup using an E46 purple tag rack. Only done one wet rack day in it, but it's night and day different; even just driving it on the road it is significantly better

 

[brillomaster]

I did 12 trackdays with the EPS - never bothered me enough to consider changing to hydraulic.

Indeed the only mods I did were brake pads (used standard discs) and tyres. Great cars, nice and nimble on track.

If you're absolutely set on spending money then go ahead, but theres really no need. Just getting out on track is the most important thing.

Out of interest, what track are you gonna go to?

 

[Nocturnal]

I've tracked with EPS and just moved to an electric hydraulic setup using an E46 purple tag rack. Only done one wet rack day in it, but it's night and day different; even just driving it on the road it is significantly better

An electric hydraulic sounds better, never considered that. Was it easy to swap it in?

 

[Nocturnal]

I did 12 trackdays with the EPS - never bothered me enough to consider changing to hydraulic.

Indeed the only mods I did were brake pads (used standard discs) and tyres. Great cars, nice and nimble on track.

If you're absolutely set on spending money then go ahead, but theres really no need. Just getting out on track is the most important thing.

Out of interest, what track are you gonna go to?

Looking to go to Willow Springs! My discs are going bad (from previous owner), so gonna swap them for the Zimmerman Rotors above and probably buy better pads. Any recs from fcp euro in your experience?

 

[Rsipad]

SOW is tough on tires. Didn't have many brake issues there. For my old 3.0i I just swapped from street pads to EBC RPX from FCP Euro. I'd also recommend buying Castrol SRF from them and to take advantage of the lifetime policy to get it for free after the first 2 times. Ran on cheapest FCP Euro rotors - it's just metal and more expensive ones have a negligible improvement.

 

[3002 tii]

Hello,

I am looking to track my 2004 Z4 3.0i.

I believe I need to replace my rotors, but definitely pads. I was wondering if anyone has any recommendation? I was looking on FCP euro due to easy shipping, does anyone have experience or can recommend whether or not the Zimmerman Rotors are fine (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-disc-front-e46-z3-z4-34116855152)?

Also, any recommendations for brake fluid? Will likely need to flush and replace fluid.

What general maintenance should I do to the vehicle to prep for a track day?

Any tire recommendations as well? Right now the car has 2024 date code rear tires (bought them 1 year ago) and 2021 date code fronts (came with the car when I purchased it early last year). I believe the previous owner didn't drive the car at all, the tread is still plentiful. However, for a track day, I'm a little cautious about the date code. The tires on the car are all Michelin Pilot Sport 4s.

Is there any way to increase the sensitive of the EPS, I feel like it's quite numb and then all of a sudden it gives resistance. Makes it very hard to steer when increasing speed or going at high speed. Wish it was hydraulic!

Thank you!

Zimmerman plain face rotors are fine. Nice thing about FCP of course is the free lifetime replacement policy, though shipping rotors back can significantly eat into your savings.

Most track day organizers will provide you a tech inspection sheet which will cover all the items that need to be looked over and signed off by a professional. Generally speaking, you want to make sure rotors, pads, brake fluid and tires are in good order. YMMV with the 2021 DOT codes; some organizers require tires to be less than 4 years old. But as long as there's plenty of tread and show no signs of dry rot, I'd run em. If you are going to replace tires, Michelin 4S is a good street tire that can handle light track duty. Alternatively, you can opt for 200TW tire but they won’t last nearly as long as PS4S. But if you splurge for new tires, I would consider maxing out the front camber to avoid excessive tire wear. Last thing you want to do is trash new tires. So alignment is something you may want to budget for...

Re brake fluid, it's unlikely you'll be pushing the brake temps during your first outing. So while you want fresh fluids, Castrol SRF seems overkill imo. You can get away with something cheaper like Motul RBF 600/660. On the flip side, Castrol will last longer but if you're like me and change fluid annually, then may as well go with Motul.

I would not go out of my way upgrading too many components. The car in stock form can handle light track duty. At most, I might consider a more aggressive street pad such as Hawk HP+ or Ferrodo DS2500. Both will squeal more than OEM but safe to run on street vs a race compound which will not get up to operating temps during normal street driving.

Yes hydraulic is better than EPS, but that's so far down the list of things to address for track day upgrades imo. Brakes, tires, and suspension matter way more. And most importantly, get a good full faced SA2025 helmet.

 

[BMWZ4MC]

Most track day organizers will provide you a tech inspection sheet which will cover all the items that need to be looked over and signed off by a professional…..

That’s very strict. I’ve not encountered that in the UK or Australia. Usually, having a car that is (or can be) road-registered, looks ok and meets the noise restrictions in scrutineering, then doesn’t smoke or leak fluids on track are the basic requirements!

….I would not go out of my way upgrading too many components. The car in stock form can handle light track duty. At most, I might consider a more aggressive street pad such as Hawk HP+ or Ferrodo DS2500. Both will squeal more than OEM but safe to run on street vs a race compound which will not get up to operating temps during normal street driving…

I’ve not used Ferrodo DS2500, but I know lots of people who routinely use them as a road and track pad.

…Brakes, tires, and suspension matter way more.

For me, after driver skill (and bravery), the biggest determinants of speed have been tyres, vehicle weight, suspension, brakes and power in that order. I was surprised how much shorter my braking distances became with decent coil overs.

 

[3002 tii]

That’s very strict. I’ve not encountered that in the UK or Australia. Usually, having a car that is (or can be) road-registered, looks ok and meets the noise restrictions in scrutineering, then doesn’t smoke or leak fluids on track are the basic requirements!

Tech inspection is pretty standard here. Some clubs like Porsche Club and BMW CCA will even point you to a list of pre-approved shops. And then on the morning of, you have to go through a lite inspection at the paddock where they do one final check on functioning brake lights, brake pad thickness, and check your helmet is up to date. But you wouldn't believe the number of times drivers lose out on track time (or even worse take impact) because someone in front of them was leaking fluids.

For me, after driver skill (and bravery), the biggest determinants of speed have been tyres, vehicle weight, suspension, brakes and power in that order. I was surprised how much shorter my braking distances became with decent coil overs.

Agreed driver skill (i.e. seat time) matters the most, which is why I tell folks don't go crazy with mods. Learn the limit of the car first.