Front strut clamp bolts nightmare

[colb]

What was going to be a simple front strut change on an E85 turned into a nightmare when both sides strut clamp bolts snapped in the hubs. Had to take the hubs off and the lower suspension arms. Wouldn't you know it all the ball joints decided they were not coming out heat and pickle fork bashing finally freed them but destroyed the ball joints in the process. Strut replacement then turned into a full front suspension refurb with all new parts. Sat on the Zedshed Cymru lift for a week whilst we awaited parts. Spent two days drilling the broken bolts out of the hubs, got through two sets of Cobalt drills and much swearing.
Today we set about refitting it all and changed the rear springs as well, last week after the front disaster we put new shocks on the rear.
It all went back together far easier with the new parts thank goodness. Gave the car a scan and reset the steering angle sensor also took the opportunity to delete Transport Mode from the car so that will never set itself if it ever has a low battery condition. Few other jobs in the pipeline, Cam Cover gasket change and sort an airbag light that seems to be down to the passenger seat belt buckle being unhappy.
The aftermath of the job in the picture

 

[enuff_zed]

Oh I do so love those knuckle bolts!

 

[bigwinn]

Those bolts give me nightmares still

 

[Umfaan]

Well done Colin …

 

[Rockhopper]

I soaked mine in PlusGas for a week before I attempted to remove them.

 

[Rockhopper]

I also bought new bolts as well. Not expensive.

 

[enuff_zed]

I also bought new bolts as well. Not expensive.

Absolutely! Genuine BMW. I fit new every time.

 

[Osprey6010]

One of mine snapped while replacing my shock absorbers, any other way to get them out? Or any way around it, open to a slightly bodgey repair if anyone has any tips. Might post a separate thread in a bit.

 

[enuff_zed]

One of mine snapped while replacing my shock absorbers, any other way to get them out? Or any way around it, open to a slightly bodgey repair if anyone has any tips. Might post a separate thread in a bit.

Careful drilling, or fit a replacement hub.

If you disconnect the steering tie rod you can turn the hub a full 90 degrees so you can get a drill straight onto it.

 

[bigwinn]

One of mine snapped while replacing my shock absorbers, any other way to get them out? Or any way around it, open to a slightly bodgey repair if anyone has any tips. Might post a separate thread in a bit.

You can drill and retap but it’s probably easier and quicker to buy a second hand hub

 

[smorris_12]

I had this happen on mine (or was it the E46? Same difference); popped off the tie rod and wishbone, stuck it in the vice and drilled it out in fairly short order. Being able to get square on to the bolt easily makes an 'ell of a difference in drilling out as you can keep the drill from wandering and you're also able to get big force behind the drill - something difficult grubbing around on the floor.

One thing people don't realise when drilling metal, and particularly hardened steels, is that you want the bit to bite into the work. In a drill press you can easily exert 50+kg of force without trying. I've seen too many people just point a hand drill in the direction of something and spin it at full revs which does nothing but polish the work and blunt the bit.

Some good cobolt bits are a thing of wonder - these bolts are 10.9 spec which are fairly hard to drill (normal 8.8 bolts are usually only case hardened so the middle is soft and HSS is fine.) Start 4/5mm for a pilot and work up (if buying loose, 8, 10 and 11 are good sizes.) If dead centred you'll miss the thread or maybe it'll just need tidying up with a tap. At worse, drill it out to 12mm and put a nut and bolt through it!

(I must be bored as I seem to have written a guide aimed at no one in particular! FWIW, if I didn't have the skill to drill the bolt out and could survive without the car for a day or two, I'd second the call to buy another hub!)

 

[TriggerFish]

I welded a nut on the back (the other end without the head), and undid it that way on my old E46...

 

[Bmw Enthusiast]

Ohhh boy, sounds like I was lucky when I did mine. Wd40 and a bit of heat from an electric heat gun and they span out with the Milwaukee impact wrench. New bolts in when reassembling....now covered in Lanoguard....just in case! Can imagine the nightmare if they break. Old cars huh!

 

[enuff_zed]

Ohhh boy, sounds like I was lucky when I did mine. Wd40 and a bit of heat from an electric heat gun and they span out with the Milwaukee impact wrench. New bolts in when reassembling....now covered in Lanoguard....just in case! Can imagine the nightmare if they break. Old cars huh!

Impact guns on those always scare me!
I know I'm old school and an aircraft techie, but I don't possess an impact gun. No way can you have any 'feel' for what is happening until it all goes wrong. It takes me longer with my socket set and extension bar, but at all times I can feel exactly whether the bolt is turning or likely to shear.

 

[Meds]

Those bolts.. i have a new set ready to go in.. my mechanic keeps telling me to swap them.

Are they something that can be replaced in situ on the driveway? (Providing they remove easily)

Jack up, wheel off, jack under hub and replace?

 

[TriggerFish]

Those bolts.. i have a new set ready to go in.. my mechanic keeps telling me to swap them.

Are they something that can be replaced in situ on the driveway? (Providing they remove easily)

Jack up, wheel off, jack under hub and replace?

Yep!

 

[Osprey6010]

I welded a nut on the back (the other end without the head), and undid it that way on my old E46...

Thats a shout actually. If that doesn't work I can still get a drillbit through the centre. Might try that if I can find someone with a welder. Whats the issue with leaving them (curious not actually going to leave it don't worry!!). Too much pressure on the small pin on the shock?

 

[enuff_zed]

Thats a shout actually. If that doesn't work I can still get a drillbit through the centre. Might try that if I can find someone with a welder. Whats the issue with leaving them (curious not actually going to leave it don't worry!!). Too much pressure on the small pin on the shock?

Do you mean leave them once they’ve sheared?
Only the second half of the boot and hub are threaded. That’s how it is able to pull if tight. If the head is gone then there’s nothing to hold the clamp shut.

 

[Zedebee]

Before you think about taking off the hub, make sure you can undo the grub screw (which is made of cheese) on the brake disk, and that you have appropriate means of splitting the ball joints. If you damage them, the list of components you have to replace starts to grow . . .

If you change the hub, you ought to factor in getting an alignment done as well, as you can’t assume the geometry will be the same as the one you took off.

 

[Osprey6010]

The ball joints, I assume I'll need a separator (the two pronged chisel thing?).

I'm going to assume it's not safe to drive to a mechanic while the bolt is snapped, contemplating taking it there, seeing if they can get it sorted, don't want to risk spending loads on new parts and alignments if a garage can get the bolt out cheaper.