E85 newbie state of the nation report.

nr.

Member
 The Fens
Hello all,

After introducing myself recently, I thought I'd do a quick history of where I am with the E85, just to see if anyone has any "you need to do XYZ" thoughts that will be helpful. I picked the car up pretty much this time last year, with about 56,000 miles, and a huge stack of service history data. Everything worked as it should, but it was notable that the roof motor was struggling a bit, so pretty much as soon as I got the car home I relocated the roof motor. Sure enough, the drains were blocked and it was sitting in a bucket of stagnant water. It's amazing that it was working at all. And for a year, I just drove it. And so far it's always driven very well indeed - the six speed manual gearbox can sometimes be a little notchy getting into 1st from cold, but otherwise, no problems at all. The heated seats were lovely over winter, and the air con works just perfectly. It lives outside and gets used in all weathers, so I'm aware that I'll need to keep an eye on water leaks but that's OK. It's proven itself already to be a lot more waterproof than my old MX-5, and the colander on wheels that was the Austin Healey Sprite.

The valve cover and gasket have been replaced. I was originally going to replace just the gasket, so I ordered one, and then realised that the cover was warped in the front corners. So, I bought a cheapo eBay aluminium cover, which came complete with gaskets. The cover needed a bit of work to clean up the casting and reshape the breather spigot, but nothing that couldn't be achieved without a Dremel and some hand files. And actually, this was quite relaxing work. For now, I've fitted it with the gaskets that came with the cover and a smidgeon of Reinzosil where the timing cover meets, on the grounds that if it does leak again in the near future I can whip it off, fix the problem (or more likely, buy a better cover...) and fit it with the 'good' gasket that I ordered originally.

The parking sensors have fixed themselves... I'm 99% sure this must have been water ingress in that case. They failed after a six hour drive through a monsoon a couple of months back, and now after a few warm(ish) days recently they've started working again. I've got the spares now, so they can stay on hand. I don't like it when problems just go away like that, but in this case I think I can make a good enough case in my mind for things just drying out.

The roof motor feels like it needs the commutator cleaning. There seems to be one position where if it stops, it needs a tap with a rubber mallet to get it moving again. And I keep a small mallet in the boot for just this purpose.

I fixed an awful clattering noise over the local bumpy Fenland roads by the simple act of closing the boot lid.

Shocks, I think, could do with replacing. I can't find anything in the extensive service history that came with the car that indicates that they've ever been replaced, and they're 22 years old now. And here I could do with a bit of advice - are there any specific recommendations for the E85? Normal road driving, I don't go anywhere near racetracks (not on four wheels, anyway) and I'm best described as a steady, rather than spirited driver :) I was initially thinking B4s, but I'm sure that there are others out there that work just as well.

Brakes are still working well, but I'd like to change the fluid and check out the disks and pads while I'm there. And at the same time, even though the oil service indicator is still showing 10000 miles I'd like to change the oil and filter, just for peace of mind. Gearbox and diff oil, I'm unsure about - are there any E85 specific requirements that make replacing these awkward?

The airbag light is still on - but I'm not expecting that to miraculously fix itself like the parking sensors! Enuff_zed, I'll drop you a note soon to try to sort out a mutually convenient time to pop over if that's still OK?

Is there anything else that I should just be checking as a matter of course? As previously mentioned, I relocated the roof motor to the boot, and have also given the hood a good cleaning and reproofing with Renovo. The central locking works 99% of the time but occasionally the passenger door doesn't unlock - which will need looking at soon. I've ordered a BMW Scanner 1.4 so I can look at any stored codes. I've tried in vain to get something to play with the UniCarScan 2100 that I use on my bike, but so far nothing I've installed on my phone will talk to the car.

Thanks all,
 
I would budget for new top mounts, shocks, bump stops and definitely a new pair of the front knuckle bolts that clamp the strut to the hub. Springs? Depends on mileage and condition.
B4 shocks are a good OEM equivalent, and Sachs were OE amd are still a good option.
Lemforder, Sachs, Bilstein, all good top mounts, but DO NOT get Meyle HD for the rear! Terrible design and the banging will make you demented. Brembo discs and pads are a good choice for standard driving.

Look forward to meeting you and sorting out the airbag issue.

The oil service indicator resets to 15550, so your car has probably done 5k on that oil. When I do oil services for people I reset it and tell them to get it done again when it reads 10k left.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: nr.
Thanks for sharing such a comprehensive update on your E85, it's great to hear you're methodically working through everything. Regarding the shocks, B4s are definitely a popular and sensible choice for maintaining a comfortable, OEM-like ride for normal road use. While you're looking at the suspension, it's often a good idea to inspect the springs too, as they can also show their age after two decades. As for the gearbox and diff oils, there aren't really E85-specific 'awkward' requirements beyond ensuring you use the correct fluid specs; a fresh change can often make a noticeable difference in shift feel and overall peace of mind.
 
It looks like you've had pretty detailed recommendations already.

The only thing I would suggest that may help with the gearbox notchiness is removing the Clutch Delay Valve. If you can drive a manual car properly you really don't need it. There are loads of guides online.
 
The only thing I would suggest that may help with the gearbox notchiness is removing the Clutch Delay Valve. If you can drive a manual car properly you really don't need it. There are loads of guides online.
Oooh, thanks! I'll take a look. I'm pretty confident with a manual gearbox - I learned to drive in a succession of crap 1970s cars with properly agricultural boxes, so the Z4 is the Starship Enterprise in comparison. And because it's no longer 1984 I don't need to worry about hand-windy windows, manual choke control or Feu Orange air fresheners. There's a lot to be said for nostalgia, but I'll take progress any day :)
 
Following up on this - after a lovely drive out on a sunny day, the airbag light is now off, and currently staying off. I popped up the road into Deepest Norfolk, and Martin got stuck in, cleared the codes, and everything is just fine now. My suspicion falls on a Under Voltage error that was there - I'm willing to bet that at some point during the six hour monsoon drive, some water got where it shouldn't and there was a transient voltage drop that just caused the error code to appear. But all modules are fine, and there's nothing to indicate any terminal failure at this time.

This is great, as it now means the car is driving well with no error codes, no oil leak from the valve cover, and I've also replaced the roof motor. I guess there's no excuse not to get stuck into the shocks now. Also on the cards are an oil change, removal of the clutch delay valve, replacement of the collapsed vacuum hose to the brake servo, and a good stocktake of the DISA valve. So loads done, loads still to do, and a summer to enjoy.

Thanks again for your time this afternoon Martin - it was good to meet up, and learn a whole lot of new stuff. An afternoon very well spent.
 
Back
Top Bottom