Roof Error - Code A68D

[BeardyJon]

Sorry to start yet another thread about roof problems and microswitches, but I can't find anything that definitively answers my question or refers to my specific issue. SimpleCarGuy had the same problem, but when he did his video halfway through found a broken wire and so didn't deal with fixing a busted Microswitch.

So, hopefully someone can offer some helpful suggestions or insights into what's going on:

Went to put the roof down and it stalled in the service position and bonged at me that there was a roof movement impairment. Couldn't get it to move at all. Had to turn ignition off and remove key until the hydrolics gave up and the roof lowered back down. Once the roof was lowered it would latch, but would not reopen again.

Checking ProTool, I have fault code A68D - Microswitch, Roof Shell 2 Closed, Right



I checked the live data from ProTool and triggered the microswitch to see if it was working, and it wasn't, so decided to buy a replacement.

Having checked RealOEM for the right part number, I ordered a new Microswitch at the cost of £45 (seems pricier than others have said previously).



Removed the faulty microswitch and replaced with the new one. Checked the live data from ProTool and triggered the microswitch to see if it was working, and it was, suggesting there were no broken wires, thankfully.

However, now that the switch is replaced, the roof still won't operate. At all now. Before I could get it to latch/unlatch and raise to service position. But now it just won't even start up. It's currently lowered almost into latch position but will not latch so its just a bit open and won't move.

I've checked ProTool for the error code, cleared the existing codes, but it's still saying the same A68D code as before, despite the microswitch being replaced and ProTool showing it was working.

What's gone wrong here? Have I missed something? Is there a Hall sensor that needs changing too? Is that what that "hall sensor vsw2.5" means?

 

[flybobbie]

Your reader say "Hallsensor vsw 2.5"
You replaced microswitch?
Might still have broken wires, .
Wires need replacing at least back to boot area, both pairs for reliability.
From the forum i would say 90% of faults broken wires.

 

[RobbiZ4]

As said,
there are always broken wires in the upper(!!) bow of the hydraulic harness, never broken microswitches (MS)!
Don't try to replace the MS in the rear roof shell.

 

[8vb]

I’m having the same problem. The roof lowered completely but did not latch. Blinking red light. I cannot open the trunk or raise the windows. I get the A68D code, but the data stream shows the switch is working when I toggle it. If there’s a broken wire somewhere, could the data stream still show it’s working? Where to go from here?

 

[RobbiZ4]

At first, the insulation of the wires will break and the copper strands can pull apart during subsequent bends.

If both wires of a pair have insulation cracks, a temporary short circuit can occur, depending on the bending angle, while the hydraulic harness is bent as the roof shell moves.

Said this, the CTM correctly is detecting a short, you are correctly measuring continuity.

 

[8vb]

Wow, RobbiZ4, thank you for your lightning fast and detailed response. Yes, I’m sure all the wiring needs replacing. This is the second roof error I’ve had, and I’ve only had the car six weeks. I do love it, though, and am prepared to do what it takes to get it right.

Would it be prudent to inspect the main bend first, perhaps repairing any cracks there, hoping that cracking would not occur where the wires don’t bend?

 

[RobbiZ4]

@1st, read this:

E89: Collection of the typical age-related defects in the roof environment

Then this to learn how to dismantle the rear roof shell:
Guide for replacing old hydraulic lines

The hydraulic harness is a complex component that covers both sides of the roof.
Depending on the position of the roof panels, three 180° bends are formed on each side.

1. The upper, invisible one
2. The lower, visible one
3. The inner one, bending when the main pillars drive into the trunk. Finally they'll touch the backlight clusters.

In the visible bow (2) nothing will break, but in (1) and (3) in a random order, all six wires one after another.
In addition, all 4 hydraulic hoses already are cutted in (1) on absolutely each E89(!) and will burst sooner or later.

The correct strategy is,

1. to replace all 6 wires with new flexible ones (LiFy, 0.25 mm²) beginning on top and ending in the lower main pillar with a lenght of about 1.20 m each.
2. to tape all 4 hydraulic hoses with a self welding tape in the upper bow (1) to extend the life time of the 4 hydraulic hoses. Works successfully since 7 years.
3. Don't even think about beeing creative!
   Replace everything back as original, each zip tie, each! Absolutely exact as before.
   Take photos before cutting anything, be exact.
   Every creativity unnessesarily will shorten the lifetime of the hydraulic loom.

Shortening this plan leads to several roof collapses and numerous workshop events.

Left 2 wires, 2 hoses (already cutted)



Right 2x2 wires, 2 hoses

 

[8vb]

Thank you. I’m sure hydraulics are somewhere in my future.