Trouble removing rear hard top convertible shell for micro switch wiring repair

chromenuts

Member
 CT
Hi guys

I’m in the unfortunate position of having to try and fix the non-functional convertible hard top of my wife's 2012 bmw Z4.

The top got stuck part of the way through its closing cycle last Fall. I played with the harness in the trunk area and got it almost all the way in the open and stored position and we managed to limp it home.

Since then I’ve been reading on and off here and on other resources. I managed to get the top into the service position by following instructions in one of robbie’s threads.

I got a diagnostic tool and managed to trace the issue to an intermittent micro switch signal running through the passenger side of the roof top mechanism harness.

My goal was to access and replace the sections of wire that are affecting the signal, get it working and then honestly get rid of the car before we have more problems.

I am stuck in a situation where I need to get access to the harness above its upper bend where it tucks between the rear window roof shell and the roof mechanisms in order to be confident that I have replaced any sections that may be broken. The lower bend has some insulation cracking, but the copper wire still looks intact.

I found bits and pieces of information indicating that the roof shell should be fairly easy to remove via a few bolts holding the shell to the mechanism.

I managed to pry the roof liner loose along the front and sides to access and loosen two bolts holding the front of the rear roof shell to the closing mechanism and removed the shims in between which I saved in order.

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The last bolt I thought needed removal would not budge. I tried a few times and could feel I wasn’t getting anywhere and the torx tool appeared to not be gripping well. I went out and bought a new T40 bit to try. Unfortunately, it didn’t work. The bit ended up turning in the bolt head and ripping it out.

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Now I have this mess…

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I’m not sure what the hell to do now. I was doubting that this was even the proper way to release the shell, but I can’t think of how else it would come off or find any other information to the contrary.

I really think that if I don’t gain access to replace the wiring above the upper bend in the harness I won’t be able to solve the issue.

I tried some heat on the outside of the fixture the bolt threads into and hammering a larger triple square bit into the bolt head…no dice.

The only thing I can think of at this point is to try and drill the head off…but I’m afraid I won’t be able to get the remaining threads of the bolt out due to threadlock that may still be holding it in place.

Has anybody else run into this nightmare? Am I going about the removal of the roof shell improperly?

Any guidance or help anyone can provide would really be appreciated. 🙏🙏🙏
 
When wires broke my cars roof shell i just chopped wires at the switch and run a new pair back to the fold mechanism and reconnect there. Left old wires in place.
 
I also just fished my new wires thru without removing anything.

Btw, I don't think your removing the right bolts. If I recall there are only 6 bolts (3 per side) holding the top shell on. Go to this thread and look at pictures for item 3 & 4 on the first page. The bolts your looking for are vertical. Bottom to top to hold the top shell.

Btw, I replaced all the wires on the right and left side. If I were to do it again I would remove the top section to make it much easier.
 
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Right…that is the thread I was originally referencing and posted my question in. It was suggested that I start a new thread.

That thread had several useful links and pictures that helped me get started.

One link, I can’t find right now, showed the general location of the mounting bolts…it might have been one of robbie’s threads.

However, if you look closely at the pictures in the thread that you linked you will come across this one (I modified with red arrow) which shows that the location of the bolt I am struggling with has been removed.

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I think perhaps you guys may be right in that I may be forced to attempt cutting and splicing in separate wires as best as I can.

It’s against my OCD nature…I would rather that I was able to access the original harness, splice in repair wiring and wrap it back up as I found it. 😕
 
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Why in gods name are you trying to remove that bolt???? Top section is already removed in the photo. At this point, all the wiring is already exposed. Red area is where the bolts to remove top is located. Three each side. Blue line is the section of wiring to replace.
 

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To be clear, that is a picture from the hydraulics rebuild thread.

Yes the shell has been removed.

Yes there are mounting bolts for the roof shell in the area that you circled.

That area only contains two of the three bolts that mount the roof shell.

The third bolt that needs to be removed in order to release the rear roof shell from the actuating assembly is not in the same area.

The third bolt passes through the hole that I highlighted in the rear section of the actuating assembly in that picture with a red arrow as far as I can see.

It threads horizontally through the mechanism…not vertically into the roof shell. There is a bracket mounted to the roof shell with an adjustable mount that it threads into as seen here…

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I can find no other point near the rear of the shell (with the other two vertical bolts removed) that will allow the shell to release.
 
I can find no other point near the rear of the shell (with the other two vertical bolts removed) that will allow the shell to release.

Everything is correct.
  • 2 bolts vertically fine adjusted with 0...5 shims
  • 1 bolt horizontally fine adjusted without shims.
... on each side of the rear roof shell.

All bolts
  • have to be marked around it's head with a white edding pen
  • are glued
  • have to be warmed up with an adjustable(!) heat gun, ~200°C for ~10 seconds
  • have to be replaced with a set of new bolts!! Partnumber is 54377220536 "Fastening Kit, Roof Shell"
Important:
The two window heating connectors will be teared off the glass when touched due to it's age!

I recommend to spray a bit of silicone spray (WD40 may work as well but is stinky) into the connector from the rear and wait some minutes while working on the bolts.

Touch these connectors with both hands (and both arms around the complete roof mechanic) and open it slowly and carefully to not tear it off the glass.

If teared off, I can re-solder it with my heat gun. You will destroy your window. :headbang::D
 
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