How to get the roof hydraulic pump out of its clamshell

wiseguy

Member
 Mississippi, USA
My rear window came partially unglued from my convertible top, and as I was preparing to reglue it, I realized I could see the 2 part container for my failed roof hydraulic pump. I’ve tried spanners/wrenches to pry at it, and slip joint pliers to attempt to rip the top of the 2 part plastic enclosure away, but to no avail. The 2 part container wiggles up and down about 3/4 of an inch, but no more. With the window out, it looks like it may be easier to remove now vs. removing the trunk wall later and pull it out. I’ve watched videos on YouTube on removing it but can’t get it to come apart or out. Help! I do not want to remove the entire convertible top.
 

Attachments

  • 0E11BAA1-02D8-461E-8A82-8A4BFACBEFF2.jpeg
    0E11BAA1-02D8-461E-8A82-8A4BFACBEFF2.jpeg
    711.4 KB · Views: 13
  • 80BEEC26-8DB1-47E3-8BDE-9FAEF0DFA1AF.jpeg
    80BEEC26-8DB1-47E3-8BDE-9FAEF0DFA1AF.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 12
Last edited:
Has no one had a difficult time getting the plastic container surrounding the hydraulic roof pump/motor apart and out?
 
Its held in there with at least one cable tie, you have to cut that and then lift the container upwards being careful not to damage the pipes that run underneath it. Once lifted up you should be able to pull it back into the boot and get the top off to access the motor/pump. The cable tie is threaded through a slot on the side of the container its about half way down in the cavity and difficult to see let alone cut it.
If you still cant get it out then you only have to undo the bolts that hold the roof in on that side and the two bolts in the B door post to be able to lift that side of the roof up to get better access and see what you are doing.
 
There is also a screw that passes through the mounting flange on the front of the casing and into thre bottom of the hydraulic hinge. So if you're attempting it the brute force way then you need to pull hard enough to snap the plastic around that. Then you run the risk of damaging, or at least misaligning, the hall sensors mounted above it.
 
If you knew what is holding it in - and its an original installation, youd realise how mad anyone is being to try and prize the whole casing out through the boot. Getting the top off maybe possible with a lot of patience and lost skin but the hydraulic lines are clipped in and cable tied to groves under the lower half of the casing and without freeing those, the lines wont be long enough to stretch the motor and pump into the boot.

To do it safely and properly, you need to lift the roof out, or in part at least. Im sure Bigwin, Chris, EnuffZed, Colb and the few other guys who do these regularly will agree
 
Last edited:
@Number5 I watched the video @colb posted above, and I'm not sure I'd ever get it all back together again. That video guy is breaking the car for parts, but I would have to be much more delicate. When BMW wants $32.00 for one screw (sourced at a hardware store for $0.10), I can only imagine the cost for broken 18 year old plastic interior panels. My local BMW mechanic doesn't want to fiddle with this sort of thing. They'd prefer to bill me $2,000+ to remove the whole top and pop in a new pump/motor in the original location; they refuse to attempt a relocation of the pump/motor. I have seen several videos on Youtube where they pull the container open and out without taking off any part of the roof, but the plastic shell around my pump/motor doesn't budge. They never show the actual removal, so maybe they struggled at this stage as well.

@colb I may invest in an endoscope so I can get an eye on what I'm trying to cut.

My roof motor hasn't worked in years, due to water intrusion I'd bet, again, and I spent big bucks having it changed last time. I was hoping to pull it through to the trunk as the guy in the above video does. I can then either get the old one working like several online have done (bringing them back to life after years sitting in water) or buy and fit a new motor. I won't spend a dime to put a new motor in the original location, as the design of the hydraulic motor/pump, drain, and location is ridiculous.

I may just reattach the rear window and leave it as a non-powered top for now. That's how I've been using it since the latest hydraulic motor failed.

@Rockhopper I wish I could find a local shop willing to relocate my pump. The UK seems to have an abundance of shops that know the Z4 well. My area, not so much.

Thanks to all for their comments! I appreciate you.
 
I followed this video after giving up trying to force the top off the roof motor and even trying an endoscope wasn't successful, tbh it was a relief finding this video as I knew without it I would probably have broken something.

In my opinion it's straightforward partially removing the roof the hardest bit I found was releasing the aluminium hoop out of it's retaining clip
 
Back
Top Bottom