Recent content by Chippie

do the reverse lights come on when the PDC isn’t working? I don’t know how it gets its signal presumably from the gearbox or gear selector if it’s an automatic.

If they haven’t already been changed then I’d be looking at replacing the 2 “salmon” relays and as you said checking all the wiring around the roof motor for any possible shorting.

Regarding the reference to fuse 25, Is this the fuse location number or the fuse rating? Is the fuse that keeps blowing the correct amperage?

Here’s a thread on replacing the hydraulic lines which may be useful, I’m sure there’s a detailed thread on replacing the loom as well somewhere on here. https://z4-forum.com/threads/guide-for-replacing-old-hydraulic-lines.122363/

You could try some silicone rubber grease on the joint, I use it on all my rubbers as well as the gummi pflege https://ebay.io/m/RCI4Ex

Don’t know if you’ve read this but it may be helpful https://z4-forum.com/threads/roof-micro-switches-and-hall-sensors-fixes-and-info.95385/

When I bought my 35is it had different branded non run flats on the rear, when accelerating hard the rear was all over the place and a real handful to keep straight, fitting mps4s’s to a 4 corners made a huge difference, I can’t imagine how bad mixing run flats and none run flats would be.

Have you tried lowering each window individually and holding the button down for a few seconds and then raising them and holding the button again for a few seconds, do it a couple of times and then see if the fronts drop when you open the door.

I wonder if the wires in the harness have cracked insulation and that’s causing the shorting to ground

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your search, it’s always difficult to find your perfect car, just make a list of your absolute essentials and try and stick to it as you will probably regret not having something, ie sports seats / heated seats, cruise control (can be retrofitted). There...

I don’t see why you can’t test the motor/pump by running a positive and negative to the motor with a 20 amp inline fuse

This may be an obvious fix, but have you checked that the fader isn’t set to full rear.

So, what happens when you plug them in? I suspect it’s been unplugged because either, the pump was constantly running or the “bong of death” was constantly sounding.

The pump only runs in one direction, it’s the hydraulic valves that control the direction of the fluid and the movement of the roof.

Red - positive Brown - negative Violet - hydronic oil temperature, presumably it doesn’t matter which way they are connected.