Recent content by BumpyZ4

Continuity doesn't mean the wire can carry a load. If there is 1 strand of wire still good, it will pass the continuity check but when you apply power 1 strand is not enough to carry the electrical load.

Disconnect the battery for 15-30 minutes and then try again.

That's the only "sensor" for motion.

Mine did not need to be coded. I installed this on my 2003 and I had to add two wires to the green plug and tap those into the "I bus". The closest I bus wires are at the LCM. Just make sure those two wires are there.

If you ordered them from Amazon or eBay the plugs are most likely fake.

Not sure what engine you have.

If it runs better with the MAF unplugged, it is a good indication that the MAF is bad or it could have something on resister wire.

If you are in the States https://www.redlineautoparts.com/ has a couple of complete tops.

I'm always afraid that I'm going to break something yanking the door off. So, I found a universal torx extended bit that can get to the two screws with the door held partially open.

I bet nobody can tell with the top down!

Get an aftermarket key with transponder and an AK90 programmer (to program the transponder to the EWS). You will have to have someone cut the key blank but still way cheaper than a factory key. I've got two aftermarket keys, and they've worked great for the last 5 years.

Yes, GL5 for the diff. I used Mobil 1™ Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90

I used Redline MTL 75W80 full synthetic.

Nope, it's sewn into the top. Most of our tops look like that age. It shouldn't leak from what I understand that was sewn into the top to stiffen the edge and to help the top fold correctly.

I turned the anti-pinch off using NCS expert.