Fell foul of the 'Sticking Starter Solenoid Syndrome' tonight. The RAC guy got it going in 30 seconds & recommended a new starter but not the 'reconditioned cr@p' from ECP (presumably the RTX branded ones).
ECP have a Bosch at £86.46 +£84 surcharge & two Lucas, one at £70.45 + £42 surcharge & the other £142.80 + £54 surcharge (!).
They are all offered as suitable for my '03 3.0i auto but there's no info on what the differences are. Which one should I go for? I'm tempted by the Bosch.
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Which make of starter motor?
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Reiver
Re: Which make of starter motor?
Well I've gone for the Bosch starter.
However, while seaching for any info on the job I came across a post that claimed the two Torx bolts hoding the starter to the bellhousing were 'single-use stretch bolts'. I've found no other supporting info on this.
Can I re-use the bolts (with thread lock if necessary) or do I need new ones?
However, while seaching for any info on the job I came across a post that claimed the two Torx bolts hoding the starter to the bellhousing were 'single-use stretch bolts'. I've found no other supporting info on this.
Can I re-use the bolts (with thread lock if necessary) or do I need new ones?
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GuidoK
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
You can use the old bolts.Reiver wrote: Can I re-use the bolts (with thread lock if necessary) or do I need new ones?
Z4 3.0i | ESS TS2+ | Quaife ATB LSD | Brembo/BMW performance BBK front/rear | Schrick FI cams | Schmiedmann headers+cats | fully polybushed | Vibra-technics engine mounts | H&R anti rollbars | KW V3 coilovers | Sachs Race Engineering clutch
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ben g
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
I got the cheap Lucas one and it's fine.
Red Soft-top Sterling grey 3.0i - Z4M Front, Eibachs, Polybushed, Clear headlights, Triple clear spot rear lights, Shadow Chrome 107's, Sport MFSW, ZHP.
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GuidoK
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
Lucas.... prince of darkness 
Z4 3.0i | ESS TS2+ | Quaife ATB LSD | Brembo/BMW performance BBK front/rear | Schrick FI cams | Schmiedmann headers+cats | fully polybushed | Vibra-technics engine mounts | H&R anti rollbars | KW V3 coilovers | Sachs Race Engineering clutch
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ben g
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
matt Lucas... Fat moron.
Red Soft-top Sterling grey 3.0i - Z4M Front, Eibachs, Polybushed, Clear headlights, Triple clear spot rear lights, Shadow Chrome 107's, Sport MFSW, ZHP.
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Reiver
Re: Which make of starter motor?
That's why I was inclined to go for the Bosch.GuidoK wrote:Lucas.... prince of darkness
I'm pleased I'm doing this job on a Z4 - the E46 looks like a real nightmare.
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Wildfire
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
I went with Bosch and reused the old bolts. No issues. Didn't think they were Torx though??
2007 3.0si Coupe, LED interior lights, Stubby, ZHP, AC Schnitzers, 15mm spacers on the rear. 1993 Modified Pre-Cat TVR Griffith, Ducati Monster 821, MV Agusta F3 675
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GreyZed
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
What's the surcharge for? If you don't trade in your old one?Reiver wrote:Fell foul of the 'Sticking Starter Solenoid Syndrome' tonight. The RAC guy got it going in 30 seconds & recommended a new starter but not the 'reconditioned cr@p' from ECP (presumably the RTX branded ones).
ECP have a Bosch at £86.46 +£84 surcharge & two Lucas, one at £70.45 + £42 surcharge & the other £142.80 + £54 surcharge (!).
They are all offered as suitable for my '03 3.0i auto but there's no info on what the differences are. Which one should I go for? I'm tempted by the Bosch.
3.0 auto, sterling grey, hardtop, prfessional nav, dsp, digital tv, bluetooth, cruise, xenons, mfsw, cupholders, auto lights, auto wipers, folding mirrors, memory seats, wind deflector, pdc, 108s, LED sides/fogs, stubby, intravee, need a quad exhaust!
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GuidoK
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
I think they're torx: inverse (or external) torx (E10 or so).Wildfire wrote:I went with Bosch and reused the old bolts. No issues. Didn't think they were Torx though??
I just refurbished my starter (not that it was broken, but it had some slight noice in the bendix bearing, and when I had my intake off for supercharger install, the starter was so easy to get to....
).It's easy to take apart and most of the times it just needs a good cleaning (although most parts can be sourced individually)
Last edited by GuidoK on Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:27 am, edited 2 times in total.
Z4 3.0i | ESS TS2+ | Quaife ATB LSD | Brembo/BMW performance BBK front/rear | Schrick FI cams | Schmiedmann headers+cats | fully polybushed | Vibra-technics engine mounts | H&R anti rollbars | KW V3 coilovers | Sachs Race Engineering clutch
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ben g
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Re: Which make of starter motor?
Yes. Take your old knackered one back to them and they refund you the surcharge.GreyZed wrote:What's the surcharge for? If you don't trade in your old one?Reiver wrote:Fell foul of the 'Sticking Starter Solenoid Syndrome' tonight. The RAC guy got it going in 30 seconds & recommended a new starter but not the 'reconditioned cr@p' from ECP (presumably the RTX branded ones).
ECP have a Bosch at £86.46 +£84 surcharge & two Lucas, one at £70.45 + £42 surcharge & the other £142.80 + £54 surcharge (!).
They are all offered as suitable for my '03 3.0i auto but there's no info on what the differences are. Which one should I go for? I'm tempted by the Bosch.
Mine had bits taken out of the metal around the bolt holes and they took it. I think they recondition them and sell them for a profit.
Red Soft-top Sterling grey 3.0i - Z4M Front, Eibachs, Polybushed, Clear headlights, Triple clear spot rear lights, Shadow Chrome 107's, Sport MFSW, ZHP.
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Reiver
Re: Which make of starter motor?
Ok, changed the starter motor this afternoon. The job has been well documented on the net so I won't go through a step by step how-to but a post match analysis might prove useful.
The job is not the nightmare it is on an E46 so save yourself £100 - £200 & diy.
The Torx bolts are commonly reported to need an E12 female Torx socket. On my '03 3.0i auto they needed an E14 socket. Halfords do a 6 piece set for £15.99 or Tesco Direct do a 10 piece set delivered to your local store for £10.
It's best to use the right tool for the job, especially if they are in tight but I found a 10 mm ring spanner fits the E14 bolts perfectly.
You don't need to remove the air cleaner assembley but you do need to remove the sound generator if fitted. There's an over-centre catch underneath the SG - flip it towards you to release it. There's a jubilee clip at one end, the other end just pulls out of the bulkhead.
With the bolts out the motor should just pull out but they invariably stick on the locating pin. Try squirting WD40 or similar into the hole to help free it. On reassembly I coated the pin with copperslip.
This is where the pin locates.
This is the orientation of the motor in the car - i.e. the view you will have of it.
One other thing to note, the 13 mm nut holds 2 red wires, the 10 mm nut holds 1 black wire. There is no 8 mm nut as commonly reported elsewhere.
With it all back together it worked fine, a much smoother start than previously. When I think about it, it always did sound a bit 'clanky' compared to my E36 328.
The only issue I have is that the alarms keeps going off for no reason. I've disconnected the battery again & will try & sort it tomorrow.
The job is not the nightmare it is on an E46 so save yourself £100 - £200 & diy.
The Torx bolts are commonly reported to need an E12 female Torx socket. On my '03 3.0i auto they needed an E14 socket. Halfords do a 6 piece set for £15.99 or Tesco Direct do a 10 piece set delivered to your local store for £10.
It's best to use the right tool for the job, especially if they are in tight but I found a 10 mm ring spanner fits the E14 bolts perfectly.
You don't need to remove the air cleaner assembley but you do need to remove the sound generator if fitted. There's an over-centre catch underneath the SG - flip it towards you to release it. There's a jubilee clip at one end, the other end just pulls out of the bulkhead.
With the bolts out the motor should just pull out but they invariably stick on the locating pin. Try squirting WD40 or similar into the hole to help free it. On reassembly I coated the pin with copperslip.
This is where the pin locates.
This is the orientation of the motor in the car - i.e. the view you will have of it.
One other thing to note, the 13 mm nut holds 2 red wires, the 10 mm nut holds 1 black wire. There is no 8 mm nut as commonly reported elsewhere.
With it all back together it worked fine, a much smoother start than previously. When I think about it, it always did sound a bit 'clanky' compared to my E36 328.
The only issue I have is that the alarms keeps going off for no reason. I've disconnected the battery again & will try & sort it tomorrow.