Why you should budget for a suspension refresh when buying an E89 (or E85)

[True-Blue]

Caveat to the thread title is, ’… or buy one with it done already!’

Had a couple of hours free time today, so decided to replace the rear shocks on the Mrs E89.

The car has done circa 62k miles, has been garaged from new by the only previous owner.

The shocks look pretty decent for 2010 original's, probably due to the car being tucked away overnight and not used in winter, but look at the how they’ve stayed compressed after being pushed in by hand. They are not wedged against the wall, there is no damping force left.

But to look at them on the car you would think they were good.

So, whilst everyone hates runflats and quickly bins them, look at your shocks first… even just changing the rears has transformed the ride

Fronts when I’ve got a bit more time.

IMG_3652.jpeg (232.5 KiB) Viewed 216 times

[enuff_zed]

I have lost count of the number of times I've told people that just because the shocks look ok does not mean they must be ok.
When you do a roof motor location on an E85 and point out that the rear insulation has not been cut for access so the 120k shocks are the originals....................... "But they passed the MOT?"
Or when the front top mounts are cracking and they want you to simply replace those when the shocks are over 80k.

Remember the 180k coupe? Still on original shocks. The owner could not believe it was the same car with new suspension fitted.

I have a pair of front shocks laying by my garage right now; removed after 77k. I compressed them with one finger. After a month, neither has even started to extend again.

[Rockhopper]

These days the MOT only looks for leaks or rust, they don't do the bounce test any more.

[Rockhopper]

I've said this many times - I replaced my rears at 110k, they were totally shot and i could tell that they'd been replaced at least once before (cut foam as enuff says) - so 50k absolute max for front and rear.

[flybobbie]

My cars were shot at 50k.

[Silverstar]

I think shocks are past their best anything over 40,000 miles or sometimes even less. That reminds me, must get around to doing mine.

[Big Andra]

I'll be refreshing the suspension on my e89 in the coming weeks. It's sitting at 39k, so I'll see how well the shocks were working.

Caveat to the thread title is, ’… or buy one with it done already!’

Had a couple of hours free time today, so decided to replace the rear shocks on the Mrs E89.

Is it straight forward enough to get to the rear top mounts?

[True-Blue]

I'll be refreshing the suspension on my e89 in the coming weeks. It's sitting at 39k, so I'll see how well the shocks were working.

Caveat to the thread title is, ’… or buy one with it done already!’

Had a couple of hours free time today, so decided to replace the rear shocks on the Mrs E89.

Is it straight forward enough to get to the rear top mounts?

Yes, less faffing than E85.

Put roof in service mode, which is basically press the open button until the rear clamshell sits on top of the front clamshell and the boot is vertical and then stop.

There are then a number of plastic push rivets (not sure what the technical name is) that need to be carefully removed, which enables the trim pieces that cover the top mounts to be moved out of the way or completely removed depending on how much of the boot you want to take apart. I’m busy tomorrow morning, but if I get a chance I’ll take some pictures tomorrow afternoon if she hasn’t gone out in it.

[Big Andra]

I'll be refreshing the suspension on my e89 in the coming weeks. It's sitting at 39k, so I'll see how well the shocks were working.

Caveat to the thread title is, ’… or buy one with it done already!’

Had a couple of hours free time today, so decided to replace the rear shocks on the Mrs E89.

Is it straight forward enough to get to the rear top mounts?

Yes, less faffing than E85.

Put roof in service mode, which is basically press the open button until the rear clamshell sits on top of the front clamshell and the boot is vertical and then stop.

There are then a number of plastic push rivets (not sure what the technical name is) that need to be carefully removed, which enables the trim pieces that cover the top mounts to be moved out of the way or completely removed depending on how much of the boot you want to take apart. I’m busy tomorrow morning, but if I get a chance I’ll take some pictures tomorrow afternoon if she hasn’t gone out in it.

Great, thanks. Pics would be a bonus

[True-Blue]

I have lost count of the number of times I've told people that just because the shocks look ok does not mean they must be ok.
When you do a roof motor location on an E85 and point out that the rear insulation has not been cut for access so the 120k shocks are the originals....................... "But they passed the MOT?"
Or when the front top mounts are cracking and they want you to simply replace those when the shocks are over 80k.

Remember the 180k coupe? Still on original shocks. The owner could not believe it was the same car with new suspension fitted.

I have a pair of front shocks laying by my garage right now; removed after 77k. I compressed them with one finger. After a month, neither has even started to extend again.

It’s amazing isn’t it, change my top mounts but refit them to a lump of metal that literally now does nothing at all other than hold other bits of the car onto the car

[Marcoose]

If you own a BMW and don’t know what it stands for: Bring More Wallet.