retrofit from stereo to s676a

[MaxSheperd]

Hello Dave,
Thanks for your replies to my points; they have been very valuable.
I just thought I would give an update on the process, which is going slowly but surely.
Update:
Basically I have finished the fitting of all of the speakers with the exception of the front speaker as I am waiting for a delivery (see below).
For the bulkhead, I know it you suggested to get one, but it was shockingly expensive, and when I butchered out the one I have it did have the layout of where the subwoofer cover should be, so I took the hot blade and cut them out. It was a bit of a challenge to fit the covers, since the clips did not have anything to hook on, so I warmed the plastic and pass a screw through a few clips. They are very sturdy. Will need some padding between the subs and the covers to avoid nasty rattling; but hey eventually it really looks like the one you d buy. I mean it s the same they just do not cut the circles in those cars with the basic system.
I am now working on the wires and try to understand the wiring of the basic system and how to connect it to the amplifier. I have made some wiring but waiting for the 42-pin connector to create the harness which will leave the headunit to then plug in the amp.
In the meanwhile I fitted the cruise control in both cars thanks to your amazing tutorial (see attached pics and video).
I managed to fit the subwoofer and create some custom cables, I found the connectors which were part of an adapter. So I remove one end and soldered the end I needed to a wire. Now will just need to solder to the relevant pins in the 42-pin connector when I get it (pins 3 & 4 left sub; 22 & 23 right sub).

Para 4 - new centre dash top speaker is fed from pins 39 & 40 of the 676 amplifier.

>> I decided that I am not going to butcher the front of the car dashboard and I will fit it on the bulkhead as it were the centre speaker + tweeter in the top range system. It will not make any difference, if not to give me less work, and also I like more sounds coming from the back. I bought the tweeter also which I will jump on the speaker. There is no need for the speaker support as it is interleaved between the speaker cover and the bulkhead, I just need screws to hold it, and the speaker cover embeds support for the tweeter. So no problem. See pics.

Para 6 - there are pass-through points on both the right and left sides of the bulkhead between the passenger compartment and the trunk. I'm not sure exactly where BMW route the speaker wires from the headunit, it's either one of the sills (possibly passenger side) or the central tunnel under the centre console.
Since I am waiting for the 42-pin connector, meanwhile I am making the wires AMP>> speakers. Though I need to butcher the car further, my partner has the 676 system already and from what I could see it looks like that the major harness is going through the passenger side. So I think I will let these wires go through the passenger side and then through the glove box to the headunit. This is where I will cut the relevant cables which currently are going to the speakers from the head unit.
Then I will do pass the same way for those cables which need to go from the head unit to the amplifier. I am still unsure about these as I haven’t gone in depth, but I understand there should be at least 4 channels to go to the amp. One for the front speaker set and one for the rear speaker set.
There are a few things I am also not sure of yet.

New points:
1. The way I connect the power supply from the junction box (i.e., fuse box). I think I have found the power supply for the amplifier but I have not checked in the car. I looked up the diagram X11002 and it seems it is pin 5 in the connector shown below. So I guess I should find this already in the car and all I have to do is to add a cable in?

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2. I just want to go back to the diagram below. Since it appears that I need to connect pin 18,19 to can high and can low. I have no clue where these are but I looked at the diagrams X15003 and X15004 and found the locations below. The arrow point to a cable or harness. What am I supposed to do here? I thought I had to connect these 18 & 19 to something. No clue.

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3. I found the aerial diversity module (see below). Currently pin 13 from head unit (black wire) goes to it, but then I see that pin 10 amp will have to connect to pin 1 of this module (X13911) and still to pin 13 of the head unit. Do I make a Y section? So I have one wire coming out of the amp which then splits into 2 wire, one going to aerial and one going to the head unit (CIC)? Sorry I am not good at reading diagrams.

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Another thing that I do not get is that the diagram x13887 locations shows the below. What is that? A band on the frame? I though I had to split the wire into there. No clue.

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[AnubisZed]

......
Para 4 - new centre dash top speaker is fed from pins 39 & 40 of the 676 amplifier.

>> I decided that I am not going to butcher the front of the car dashboard and I will fit it on the bulkhead as it were the centre speaker + tweeter in the top range system. It will not make any difference, if not to give me less work, and also I like more sounds coming from the back. I bought the tweeter also which I will jump on the speaker. There is no need for the speaker support as it is interleaved between the speaker cover and the bulkhead, I just need screws to hold it, and the speaker cover embeds support for the tweeter. So no problem. See pics.

Fair enough, but it's not a butcher to fit the speaker, it's a straight swap...
This plastic panel, below the grill

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Is directly replaced with this assemble (available from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313602835903 ... ondition=4 )

Front speaker 2.jpg (54.01 KiB) Viewed 853 times

1. The way I connect the power supply from the junction box (i.e., fuse box). Am I supposed to find an empty 20 amperes slot in the fuse box? And if so, what is the kind of connector I would require?

You use the exact one as per the diagram. I'll see if I have any of these spare.

2. What and where is the aerial diversity module? Is one of those in the boot? Currently pin 13 from head unit (black wire) goes to it, but then I see that pin 10 amp will have to connect to pin 1 of this module and still to pin 13 of head unit. Do I make a Y section? So I have one wire coming out of the amp which then splits into 2 wire, one going to aerial and one going to the head unit (CIC)? Sorry I am not good at reading diagrams.

The diversity is just below the rear left light in the boot. This is the diagram from NEWTIS

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Currently you'll have the wire go from the CIC to the diversity, to which you can cut in and solder a new wire to for the amp.

3. This brings me to this last point. In the diagram I find this type of wiring below. What does it mean? Is this like a Y section where one wire splits in 2 branches. So I see in the shot below that in the basic system pin 3 and 7 supply both subwoofer front left and front mid range speaker? And the same applies in the s676 where pin 41 and 42 supply to both front subwoofers? So the cable splits in two?

y section s676 system.png
y section basic system.png

Yes it's a soldered or crimped joint for multiple wires.

4. The pin 26 in the amplifier is the ground from what I understand. Where do I connecting to, just the car frame somewhere suitable?

On the left rear wheel arch within the boot area under the panels is a earthing point with mutiple slid on crimp points, just run the neg to this point with a spade crimp on it.

5. I have had some concerns for when I have you cross-compared the diagram you sent of the basic system to the one of the amplifier. I have created a coding system in excel (see attached) since I need to match up the colours. The concerns are the following:
a. We have two e89 35i, one with the s676. In this one the wire colours between the headunit and the amplifier match up (see attached file); however they do not match up with the diagram you sent and I do not get why.
b. I realised that the diagram of the s676 you sent is not showing this active sound design module. So I tried to look on the newtis to see if I could find something. I found this https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... m/HTO8Ksfp
This wiring colours though do not match those I found in the car with the s676 sound system.
Regardless of the colour coding though, though the pin numbers seem consistent.
Do you know where this active sound design (ASD) is? Is it the one just underneath the headunit? Any idea as to how to take it out real quick?
My understanding here is that the ASD relays this wiring to the amplifier. So I can assume that in the e89 with the s676 we have, the wiring colour system is the same through headunit >> ASD >> amplifier.
See this https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... m/GaRdAReW

There is no ASD in the 35i, as per other reply. So that's why I sent you the diagram without the ASD in the line, so as to not confuse you
Some wiring colours did change over the years, alas you don't get this from NEWTIS diagrams. Don't worry about the colours, just compare the positions, that's the important point.

[MaxSheperd]

4. This brings me to this last point. In the diagram I find this type of wiring below. What does it mean? Is this like a Y section where one wire splits in 2 branches. So I see in the shot below that in the basic system pin 3 and 7 supply both subwoofer front left and front mid range speaker? And the same applies in the s676 where pin 41 and 42 supply to both front subwoofers? So the cable splits in two?

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5. The pin 26 in the amplifier is the ground from what I understand. Where do I connect it to, just the car frame somewhere suitable?


6. I have had some concerns for when I have cross-compared the diagram you sent of the basic system to the one of the amplifier. I have created a coding system in excel (see attached) since I need to match up the colours. The concerns are the following:
a. We have two e89 35i, one with the s676. In this one the wire colours between the headunit and the amplifier match up (see attached file); however they do not match up with the diagram you sent and I do not get why.
b. I realised that the diagram of the s676 you sent is not showing this active sound design module. So I tried to look on the newtis to see if I could find something. I found this below:

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This wiring colours though do not match those I found in the car with the s676 sound system.
Regardless of the colour coding though, though the pin numbers seem consistent.
Do you know where this active sound design (ASD) is? Is it the one just underneath the headunit? Any idea as to how to take it out real quick?
My understanding here is that the ASD relays this wiring to the amplifier. So I can assume that in the e89 with the s676 we have, the wiring colour system is the same through headunit >> ASD >> amplifier. See this below

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I have checked and apparently this ASD should be in the boot but at that place I have what I think is the mulf and something else but they both do not look like the ASD. So I have no idea where to find this. All the diagram I have looked at show it, which makes me believe it has to be somewhere. See below

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This is what I have in my car (the one without the s676):
I have to say that the connector of the module on the left looks the same as the one above so maybe they changed the unit and it looks different.



Once I have the above sorted I will start to look into the coding by watching the last bit of your retrofit video about the CIC. I already watched it for removing the glove box etc.

Many thanks
I hope you find this interesting hopefully it might help someone out there even for other mods

Max


NOTE see also the wiring below one from z4 without and one from z4 with s676.

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[AnubisZed]

...
New points:
1. The way I connect the power supply from the junction box (i.e., fuse box). I think I have found the power supply for the amplifier but I have not checked in the car. I looked up the diagram X11002 and it seems it is pin 5 in the connector shown below. So I guess I should find this already in the car and all I have to do is to add a cable in?

Picture1.jpg
Picture2.jpg
Picture3.jpg
Picture4.jpg

Yes, if it's there.

2. I just want to go back to the diagram below. Since it appears that I need to connect pin 18,19 to can high and can low. I have no clue where these are but I looked at the diagrams X15003 and X15004 and found the locations below. The arrow point to a cable or harness. What am I supposed to do here? I thought I had to connect these 18 & 19 to something. No clue.

Picture5.jpg
Picture6.jpg

A canbus wire can be used for this from any of the following module positions, see https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... a/6qnrEA5b

3. I found the aerial diversity module (see below). Currently pin 13 from head unit (black wire) goes to it, but then I see that pin 10 amp will have to connect to pin 1 of this module (X13911) and still to pin 13 of the head unit. Do I make a Y section? So I have one wire coming out of the amp which then splits into 2 wire, one going to aerial and one going to the head unit (CIC)? Sorry I am not good at reading diagrams.


Picture7.jpg

See previous reply above.

Another thing that I do not get is that the diagram x13887 locations shows the below. What is that? A band on the frame? I though I had to split the wire into there. No clue.

Picture8.jpg

Picture9.jpg

It's a solder joint for multiple wires.

[MaxSheperd]

Hello there,
Replying to previous points

1) Is directly replaced with this assemble ?

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The one you found on ebay is for the top system 677,as it s got the tweeter; the 676 has the same support but without the tweeter. I removed the speaker, and as you can see below I placed the speaker in the bulkhead. I then bought the cover of the 677 rear central speaker which embeds the tweeter. The upper panel of the bulkhead goes in-between. There is no need for any support, since the speaker is screwed and the cover clips on the bulkhead.

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2) “Yes, if it's there.” [the connector in the junction box]


I have checked the z4 with the s676 and the connector is there and in pin number 5 where is what s coming from the amplifier in pin number 5 (thick 2.5 grey/read wire). So this is where the power supply will come through, I definitely think that the whole harness is passing by the passenger side. There is no reason to think it would jump through underneath the middle trim console or the driver side. I will see for when I have done the wiring as to where to pass everything through but passenger side via back of glovebox seems pretty good.

I have checked in the z4 without the s676, there is a connector, but I have not unplugged it as yet. I hope there will be a power supply for pin 5 which is where I m supposed to get the amp power supply. Will have to see this during the final butchering (glove box and central dashboard.

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3) A canbus wire can be used for this from any of the following module positions:

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So if I can use any possible point the most handy I think would be the K_CAN_H in pin 11 and K_CAN_L in pin 30 of the connector found in the diagram X14271 (see below). I would basically cut the wires of pin 11 and pin 30 prior to reaching the connector X14271, then merge the wires coming from the centre information display with wire from pin 18 and 19 of the amp, then solder merged wires to the cable coming out of the connector X14271.
So basically
Pin 18 amp & wire from central information display (pin 3) >> K_CAN_H in pin 11 of X14271
Pin 19 amp & wire from central information display (pin 4) >> K_CAN_L in pin 30 of X14271
Would that work?

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Instead of the original positions here:

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4) Currently you'll have the wire go from the CIC to the diversity, to which you can cut in and solder a new wire to for the amp.
Yes it's a soldered or crimped joint for multiple wires.

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>> Ok this is not a biggy. From what you are saying it looks like it doesn’t matter if I do not do it in the position shown above (X13887); I was thinking of connecting this cable from pin 10 of the amplifier to pin 1, as this is already receiving from the CIC anyway. As you said yourself.

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[MaxSheperd]

5) On the left rear wheel arch within the boot area under the panels is a earthing point with mutiple slid on crimp points, just run the neg to this point with a spade crimp on it.
Is this below what you were talking about? This is a picture from the car with the 676, but no reason to think there is not one in the other car without 676 as I can see so many ground cable there.

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6) There is no ASD in the 35i, as per other reply. So that's why I sent you the diagram without the ASD in the line, so as to not confuse you
Some wiring colours did change over the years, alas you don't get this from NEWTIS diagrams. Don't worry about the colours, just compare the positions, that's the important point
Can I ask you how you know that the 35i does NOT have the ASD, I cannot manage to figure this out by looking at the newtis. :/ I Must say having a car with the 676 system I want to retrofit helps as I will basically mirror this into the other one.
But yes I am looking for consistency. Colours are just arbitrary.





7) I realised that the footwell subs in the front left and right receive from the same pin at head unit. The cable split in door speaker and subwoofer at locations below, so I will cut the cable there I think and seize it. I will then connect the front subs to the wire coming from the amp. However, from the diagram it is clear the the front subs share the same channel. So I think that I will split the cables coming from pin 41 and 42 at amplifier level in two branches just in the boot. One which will go at left front sub, the other branch to the right front sub. This latter will probably be the only wire which I will pass through the driver side, as to avoiding butchering around the drive dashboard. Might be tricky.

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Finally, I made a conversion sheet for the existing wiring (see below). I would appreciate if you would be able to go through it and cross compare it with the diagrams. It might take some time to go through it. Just an extra pair of eyes wont hurt

thank max.

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[AnubisZed]

The one you found on ebay is for the top system 677,as it s got the tweeter; the 676 has the same support but without the tweeter. I removed the speaker, and as you can see below I placed the speaker in the bulkhead. I then bought the cover of the 677 rear central speaker which embeds the tweeter. The upper panel of the bulkhead goes in-between. There is no need for any support, since the speaker is screwed and the cover clips on the bulkhead.

Yeah, I know. My point was because you mentioned about "butchering" the dash to fit the centre speaker on top of the dash, I was trying to make the point that it is a straight swap. Yes it's from a 677 with the extra tweeter, but it doesn't matter as that tweeter plugs into the second hole of the midrange anyway, so makes no difference.

I have checked the z4 with the s676 and the connector is there and in pin number 5 where is what s coming from the amplifier in pin number 5 (thick 2.5 grey/read wire). So this is where the power supply will come through, I definitely think that the whole harness is passing by the passenger side. There is no reason to think it would jump through underneath the middle trim console or the driver side. I will see for when I have done the wiring as to where to pass everything through but passenger side via back of glovebox seems pretty good.

I have checked in the z4 without the s676, there is a connector, but I have not unplugged it as yet. I hope there will be a power supply for pin 5 which is where I m supposed to get the amp power supply. Will have to see this during the final butchering (glove box and central dashboard.

I was taking an educated guess as to where the particular loom would run, as I know there are looms both sides and down the centre. I would have gone for the passenger side as that is the side that the fusebox is on.
I would also presume that the plug will be in the bottom of the fusebox, but not the wire in location 5.

So if I can use any possible point the most handy I think would be the K_CAN_H in pin 11 and K_CAN_L in pin 30 of the connector found in the diagram X14271 (see below). I would basically cut the wires of pin 11 and pin 30 prior to reaching the connector X14271, then merge the wires coming from the centre information display with wire from pin 18 and 19 of the amp, then solder merged wires to the cable coming out of the connector X14271.
So basically
Pin 18 amp & wire from central information display (pin 3) >> K_CAN_H in pin 11 of X14271
Pin 19 amp & wire from central information display (pin 4) >> K_CAN_L in pin 30 of X14271
Would that work?

It would but it's a lot of running to do that. I think you've missunderstood what I was trying to say. There are various components directly in that particular canbus run, that includes...
Combox,
iDrive Controller,
Electrochromic Rear View Mirror,
FRM (Footwell Module),
FZD (Functional Control Centre, Roof),
Drivers Seat Module,
CAS,
Amplifier,
RDC (TPMS) *,
Comfort Access Control,
CTM (roof module) *,
Alarm Tilt Sensor,
PDC (Parking Sensor module) *.

Now some you may have and some you wont. The three I've marked with a * are good candidates, as they are in the boot area.

Ok this is not a biggy. From what you are saying it looks like it doesn’t matter if I do not do it in the position shown above (X13887); I was thinking of connecting this cable from pin 10 of the amplifier to pin 1, as this is already receiving from the CIC anyway. As you said yourself.

Yeah making your connection at the Diversity module would be easy to find the wire, as opposed to breaking into the large loom

Is this below what you were talking about? This is a picture from the car with the 676, but no reason to think there is not one in the other car without 676 as I can see so many ground cable there.

Exactly the same as mine, and I don't have the amplifier at all! It is a standard earthing point.

Can I ask you how you know that the 35i does NOT have the ASD, I cannot manage to figure this out by looking at the newtis. :/ I Must say having a car with the 676 system I want to retrofit helps as I will basically mirror this into the other one.
But yes I am looking for consistency. Colours are just arbitrary.

Simple, none of the 6 cylindar engines had the ASD, it was solely there to make the 4 cylinders sound better to the driver. That's it, no other purpose. As previousley stated above, only the 18i, 20i and 28i (all 2ltr 4 cylinder engines) had the ASD, as the 23i, 30i, 35i and 35is are all 6 cylinders and sound better

I realised that the footwell subs in the front left and right receive from the same pin at head unit. The cable split in door speaker and subwoofer at locations below, so I will cut the cable there I think and seize it. I will then connect the front subs to the wire coming from the amp. However, from the diagram it is clear the the front subs share the same channel. So I think that I will split the cables coming from pin 41 and 42 at amplifier level in two branches just in the boot. One which will go at left front sub, the other branch to the right front sub. This latter will probably be the only wire which I will pass through the driver side, as to avoiding butchering around the drive dashboard. Might be tricky.

Yep, agreed.

Finally, I made a conversion sheet for the existing wiring (see below). I would appreciate if you would be able to go through it and cross compare it with the diagrams. It might take some time to go through it. Just an extra pair of eyes wont hurt

Seems to be all in order.
Whereas it will be easier initially by joining the wires at the quadlock, might I suggest not doing it there and actually doing the following...
For the door speakers (both sides), join at the door jam connector.
Rear 1/4 midrange, join at the speaker.
I suggest this because you've got to run the new wire from the amplifier to these points anyway, and you've got to run new wires from the headunit to the amp, but doing it this way will save you a little and you won't have redundent sections of wire in the car.

Hope that all helps

[MaxSheperd]

Hi, thanks for quick reply.
Centre speaker.
I have just realised that if I place it at the rear when I use the fading option in the CIC, and move the sound on the front, the “rear” speaker will go up along with the front speakers. It will basically become more like a boost_bass/normal_bass thing. Will have to try it and see how it feels.
Can low and high
I thought about the CTM then also thought did not want to mess with that, as I already soldered a new wire for the microswitch and already thinking about changing the hydraulic as over 10 year old. Thought best to leave CTM alone to its own problems.
I will use another one in the boot, I just thought I need to get to the fuse box anyway so could have been an option.

About wires:
My idea to join behind the head unit is because I am going to use the existing wires. But if I can easily find where the wire slits at locations below (behind the front subs), then I will join them there, but the existing wire will be left in the car unused. My idea was to use the existing wire through rather than adding more and leave some unused.

max

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[Ed.Straker]

The front centre speaker is an important part of the soundstage
Putting it in the rear will not help the audio staging
Since you can’t code or adjust the 676 it’s best to replicate the type and location of the speakers
But I’m sure you are aware of that

[MaxSheperd]

Sorry but there are no sensors for the positioning of the speakers. I could place the speaker as I see it fit, as long as find a way to fit them. The system cannot know.
Only when I will be playing it I will know if I like the way it sounds. I like sounds from the back, so I am positive and the top system has one there.

[AnubisZed]

Hi, thanks for quick reply.
Centre speaker.
I have just realised that if I place it at the rear when I use the fading option in the CIC, and move the sound on the front, the “rear” speaker will go up along with the front speakers. It will basically become more like a boost_bass/normal_bass thing. Will have to try it and see how it feels.

Yeah agreed, there is little sound that comes from the rear anyway so I see what you are trying to achieve here. Like you say "see how it feels"

Can low and high
I thought about the CTM then also thought did not want to mess with that, as I already soldered a new wire for the microswitch and already thinking about changing the hydraulic as over 10 year old. Thought best to leave CTM alone to its own problems.
I will use another one in the boot, I just thought I need to get to the fuse box anyway so could have been an option.

At the end of the day it doesn't matter where you tap into the canbus as they are all connected. The places I said above are all on the original stream as the amplifier would be, but it can be any point, just no need to run more wire than you need to.

About wires:
My idea to join behind the head unit is because I am going to use the existing wires. But if I can easily find where the wire slits at locations below (behind the front subs), then I will join them there, but the existing wire will be left in the car unused. My idea was to use the existing wire through rather than adding more and leave some unused.

A couple of inches from the speaker plug is always a good point. This would give you an exact location and leave enough to solder the new (amplifier to speaker) wires to solder onto.

Reading what you are saying makes me think you are "over thinking" certain points. Try not to, keep it simple, if you run everything to the speaker location (or the door connector for the door speakers) then there is no chance to mix anything up.

[AnubisZed]

The one you found on ebay is for the top system 677,as it s got the tweeter; the 676 has the same support but without the tweeter. I removed the speaker, and as you can see below I placed the speaker in the bulkhead....

Just going back to this....
It appears that the original speaker layout drawing may be wrong.

This image clearly shows that the front centre dash speaker doesn't have the additional tweeter for 676...


Whereas this shot from the 676 wiring diagram clearly shows that it comes with the tweeter...

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The diagram could be wrong, and someone was lazy in not bothering to delete it, but who knows

[MaxSheperd]

I think it s the diagram, since the support for the front central speaker behind the nav screen does NOT have the support for the tweeter, the is plastic blocking it, though obviously you can cut out with hot blade and put a tweeter, as the speaker allows you to jump the tweeter over.
the same apples for the 3/4 rear left and rightspeaker. there I will cut out the plastic and insert the tweeter, as speakers allow it and the layout is already predisposed, just need cutting plastic out to insert them.

[MaxSheperd]

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[AnubisZed]

Yeah I tend to agree with you Max, probably a mistake on their part.

But then I've found this, 2013 Z4 wiring diagram for the Hi-Fi system (676).
This one also shows the additional tweeter for the centre top dash on this 676 system - On this, and from the same manual I have, the diagram for the 677 is completely different layout, so not just a generic copy over.

Link due to it's physical size to be able to read it...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qh12xxtov0w0r ... g.jpg?dl=0