Replace lower wish bone

[flybobbie]

Now put some larger swaybars on it and you will really love it...

Not bothered about how it goes around bends, but just trying to get that feeling of wheels in contact with road feedback.

[B21]

Did my rough and ready check, rear camber reads 1.7 degrees.

Usually the toe adjustment is badly out when fitting the M3 parts..mine darted like demented roller skates..

[Silverstar]

I’ve ordered both lower and upper arms plus the track rod ends as suggested by B21. Autodoc had all except one lower bar which I need to look for elsewhere, anyone know how long Autodoc take to dispatch orders been waiting quite a few days? also is it necessary to replace any nuts or bolts that hold these things or can you just use the old ones?

[flybobbie]

Autodoc in UK usually more than a week.
I expect several working days.
I used old bolts, rods come with new lock nuts.

[sumotan]

Hi Guys,
Me too am looking into improving feel on my 28i but its only for road used. Are these mods ok for road use & how much
more negative camber is added to the front ?
Also are you guys using an adjustable rear lower camber arms, don't seem to be able to dial in mine equally for both sides.

Many thanks

[B21]

Hi Guys,
Me too am looking into improving feel on my 28i but its only for road used. Are these mods ok for road use & how much
more negative camber is added to the front ?
Also are you guys using an adjustable rear lower camber arms, don't seem to be able to dial in mine equally for both sides.

Many thanks

My car is used exclusively on the road..geometry settings for track use are very different to road use..

You only want 0.5 to 1.5 max front camber which can be dialled in easily…you need a bit of front toe in..

On the rear I use adjust rear camber arms..however the rear geometry is cross linked ..

I can’t achieve my preferred camber and get perfect rear toe in..

So camber us at 2.5 to preserve adequate toe in..

I’ve got adjustable toe plates to be fitted..when done I’ll add a touch more toe in and reduce rear camber to 1.5 - 2.0

[flybobbie]

Was going to fit today or tomorrow the two, i would call drag links, the one's which are wiggly shaped.
Suspension arm
Article №: JTC1424
Suspension arm
Article №: JTC1423
£68.70 each Autodoc.
See what difference that makes.
Well i measured rear camber with digital angle measure and flat surface (cupboard shelf) on wheel, came out at 1.7 degrees (looks like 10 to the eye!)
So the fronts must be something visually like 0.5 degrees or even zero.

Something else that has gone, scrubbing of tyres when i reverse out of parking space hard turn 90 degrees at home to exit.

[B21]

1.7 and 0.5 are not bad settings for road going E89…toe in needs to be appropriately set

[flybobbie]

Toes ok.

All least of my worries, aircraft engine stud snapped on me weekend threw oil over windshield.
Looks costly fix, car will have to wait a few days.

[sumotan]

Hi Guys,
Me too am looking into improving feel on my 28i but its only for road used. Are these mods ok for road use & how much
more negative camber is added to the front ?
Also are you guys using an adjustable rear lower camber arms, don't seem to be able to dial in mine equally for both sides.

Many thanks

My car is used exclusively on the road..geometry settings for track use are very different to road use..

You only want 0.5 to 1.5 max front camber which can be dialled in easily…you need a bit of front toe in..

On the rear I use adjust rear camber arms..however the rear geometry is cross linked ..

I can’t achieve my preferred camber and get perfect rear toe in..

So camber us at 2.5 to preserve adequate toe in..

I’ve got adjustable toe plates to be fitted..when done I’ll add a touch more toe in and reduce rear camber to 1.5 - 2.0

Many thanks again B21. Do I need the top arms for the front as well & what is the proper toe in angle ?
Lastly Im kind of confused on the sensor head light sensor mounting thingy. Have not taken a proper look under the
car so am a little lost

Thanks again

[B21]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?

You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine…

[Silverstar]

I’ve got all the bits now except TRW JTC1426 can’t seen to find it anywhere. Another website similar to Autodoc had it last week but I was too slow when I went to order it at the weekend they were sold out!

[sumotan]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?


You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine…

Noted & thank you again B21. On a different note, do you recall the thread I posted about remote mapping ? Well that Celtic remote will not work on the 28i something about old platform with new engine thingy. Question pls I've collected some data logs, if I send the ecu out for re mapping, do you think the logs is sufficient for the tuner to use as reference ?

[B21]

Yes both top and bottom linkages..most strain apparently is in the top one but best to do both and whilst your there the tie rod ends with Meyle HD (note HD) ends..

Toe in is as per book..do you have the book?


You need to work out what to do about the sensor..I cut the ‘knob’ off the existing clamp on bracket and used epoxy to fix it to the new arm..there’s very little load on it so that should be fine…I’ve seen others use tie wraps, plastic and metal ..one used what looked like baler twine…

Noted & thank you again B21. On a different note, do you recall the thread I posted about remote mapping ? Well that Celtic remote will not work on the 28i something about old platform with new engine thingy. Question pls I've collected some data logs, if I send the ecu out for re mapping, do you think the logs is sufficient for the tuner to use as reference ?

I think you are on your own…as was implied by Celtic the N20 engine was put belatedly into what was an earlier technology platform…it affects the ECU and TCU as far as remote mapping…

It’s possible to use something like Protool to do some data logging but I doubt you will find someone who you can trust to do the tweak..

I guess you could ask Celtic to bench flash the ECU with their stock 28i tune?

[flybobbie]

So fitted new parts, yet to drive.
The ends seem to have less flex than the original. New part on the left.

20230516_132023.jpg (221.65 KiB) Viewed 418 times

New part was slightly wider (longer?) across fixing hole by 0.4mm.
I ground some off with Dremel tool.
Basically polished off some turning marks.