2003 E85Car wont start

Roberltd2 · Post by **Roberltd2** » Sat Apr 01, 2023 10:48 pm

.......and welcome to the Forum!

colb · Post by **colb** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 8:56 am

You have not made it clear if the engine turns over when the ignition key is turned to start position.
If it turns the engine then could be the cars EWS system is not being released to allow ignition to take place, this could be due to the transponder chip in the key not being read by the aerial around the ignition barrel or the transponder being absent from the key fob, not unknown for them to be lost if the key breaks open. Not unknown for the sync between the EWS module and the Main ECU module to loose sync and prevent starting. The two can be re-synced using INPA software.

Trav · Post by **Trav** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 9:42 am

Have you checked and cleaned the ground connection? Not just replace the starter. Clean both ends. Also your multimeter is probably only rated to 10A DC with thin leads. I wouldnt recommend putting this inline with a starter with a fuse rating of 40A. Did you mean to say you measured the voltage?

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 9:49 am

Whereabouts are you?
Plenty of experienced people around that may be close enough to help out.
For example, I know a man who can tell the EWS and DME to ignore each other so you would eliminate the chance it's an immobiliser issue.

Zim11911 · Post by **Zim11911** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 2:44 pm

It looks like it is the immobilization circuit tested with a meter. I get the right signals to the module under the dash and nothing out. If I disconnect the starter and directly apply power to the starter with it still installed I can get it to engage properly.

bigwinn · Post by **bigwinn** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 3:10 pm

Zim11911 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 02, 2023 2:44 pm It looks like it is the immobilization circuit tested with a meter. I get the right signals to the module under the dash and nothing out. If I disconnect the starter and directly apply power to the starter with it still installed I can get it to engage properly.

Where are you based?

Zim11911 · Post by **Zim11911** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 3:32 pm

Thank you for the welcome to the forms. When I put the key in the ignition all of the internal electronics turn on, and I hear a faint click come from the ECU box by the firewall and driver-side strut tower. I have used an industrial-rated fluke meter rated to 500 amps and placed it in line with the firewall-mounted battery positive cable to a grounding point on the Strut tower. With that test, I do not see any current draw or amperage when the key is engaged I do see 12.8 volts and it drops to 12.51 when the key is engaged. I went to the ignition switch and used the pin out I was able to find and was able to see voltage pass through on key rotation for the ignition switch. I tracked those lines back down and ran into nothing coming out of the immobilization unit underneath the dash. I do not know if this is related to the key or the unit itself. The key will unlock the car from about 5 to 8 feet away. When I disconnected all of the cables from the starter and took the battery and directly wired it up with an interrupt switch. I was able to get the starter to engage, and the flywheel rotated properly. I visually inspected and checked resistances for most of the grounds. All the ones I was able to easily find an access. I am in Houston Texas

paddy wright · Post by **paddy wright** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 4:06 pm

Zim11911 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 01, 2023 2:05 pm
paddy wright wrote: ↑Sat Apr 01, 2023 7:19 am Have you a code reader to see if there’s any codes?
Is there a code reader you would recommend I have seen the Airbags codes are a thing on these cars so one that can clear that code would be optimal.

I bought a C310+ which seems great

Rockhopper · Post by **Rockhopper** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 5:54 pm

You won't see any current draw if you do it like that, you need to take the lead off the back of the starter and put the meter in series with it (or find the other end of the lead and disconnect it). A clamp meter would be a whole lot easier.

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Sun Apr 02, 2023 5:59 pm

Zim11911 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 02, 2023 3:32 pm I am in Houston Texas

Ah damn!
Most of the people on here are UK based.
It may be that you have to get yourself set up with the software then pick someone's brains over here to help you sort it.

Zim11911 · Post by **Zim11911** » Wed Apr 05, 2023 3:06 pm

Solved kinda!!
I bypassed the EWS, and the car will start and run with it bypassed. The EWS sees the key but seems to not communicate correctly with the DME after I resynchronized them the problem seems to have gone away any idea why they would fall out of sync? Any way to prevent this replace both replace one?

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Wed Apr 05, 2023 3:09 pm

Calling bigwinn!
Maybe you could explain to Zim11911 how you found and used that software to tell the DME not to bother talking to the EWS?
That could be an easier or cheaper fix?

bigwinn · Post by **bigwinn** » Wed Apr 05, 2023 3:15 pm

Sure

I’ll link in the post where I was advised to use specific software

Hold on

bigwinn · Post by **bigwinn** » Wed Apr 05, 2023 3:20 pm

Can’t find the post

However I downloaded MS45 quick flash from bimmertools

Don’t expect any product support mind you

It worked when we figured out what we were doing on martins car and several afterwards

bigwinn · Post by **bigwinn** » Wed Apr 05, 2023 3:21 pm

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