Removing Vanos solenoids on N52 3.0 coupes

[chanlon1]

Took a look under the bonnet and can just about see them.
Can see one 10mm bolt, but the other isn’t too visible.

Am considering looking to remove them and giving them a clean as I get a slight fluttering on idle.

But……in all reality, how easy are they to take out?
Once you get the bolt out, are they easy to swivel and pull out?

I have this big fear of taking it out and not getting it back in again.

[Joycey]

Just remove both those 10mm bolts and wiggle them both out. Give them a clean and refit, don't worry about mixing them up as it does not matter.

Clean the vanos filters after that, more likely the idle flutter issue.

[chanlon1]

Just remove both those 10mm bolts and wiggle them both out. Give them a clean and refit, don't worry about mixing them up as it does not matter.

Clean the vanos filters after that, more likely the idle flutter issue.

I’ve no idea if they have ever been removed before. Will they come out fairly easily, or does it put up a good fight?

[Joycey]

Just remove both those 10mm bolts and wiggle them both out. Give them a clean and refit, don't worry about mixing them up as it does not matter.

Clean the vanos filters after that, more likely the idle flutter issue.

I’ve no idea if they have ever been removed before. Will they come out fairly easily, or does it put up a good fight?

They're a tight fit because they have a big O-ring. Wiggle as you pull, normal to get a bit of oil.

[1536Z4]

Did mine recently . Pretty straight forward really and come out with a wiggle as Joycey says . Probably a good idea to change the o rings at the same time if they haven`t been done before . Use a 9 v battery and a couple of pieces of wire to activate them whilst they are out . See you tube video .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACYZToQD8FY

[smorris_12]

I pulled mine this week to stare at them a bit while I was doing spark plugs. Had the odd intermittent "inlet vanos sticky" error but no running issues.

Put them back in the same way round and, on the way home later had the thing stutter and stall.

Following day pulled them and actuated them of the battery. Inlet one seemed a bit sluggish so, not having any spares, swapped them over to see if it was valve or wiring/other.

Run a treat since with no errors so might be worth intentionally swapping them.

[deltasierra]

One of mine was sticking causing rough running, activated in fuel to clean it and it cleared the sticking, then activated them again in clean engine oil and refitted. Also changed engine oil and filter, it hasn’t missed a beat since

[chanlon1]

I guess it sounds like one of those tasks that is daunting at the outset, but once done, you realise it wasn't too bad.
I'm just concerned about the lack of space and something disconcerting happening!
Is there a best place to buy the O rings? Or just from the dealer?
Are there 2 O rings? Realoem looks like it has two part 2's on the diagram???

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=11_3736

[smorris_12]

The seals are an O-ring and a pressure ring to press the O-ring into it's seat.

[chanlon1]

The seals are an O-ring and a pressure ring to press the O-ring into it's seat.

Ahh so I take it that the larger of the two rings on the photo is the one that can sometimes stick in the engine block and pulled out with your fingers?
In all the videos I’ve watched I’ve never seen the second o ring spoken about.

C5F22EB7-637E-4181-A2F0-E03D7EBC224C.jpeg (47.4 KiB) Viewed 307 times

[1536Z4]

In all the videos I’ve watched I’ve never seen the second o ring spoken about.

I just replaced the one that as you say can get left behind in the engine block . Ring BMW parts or order off eBay .

[Special Kay]

Sounds like good practice as a preventative measure.