Engine rattle on cold start

[enuff_zed]

That's such a generous offer - and one I will certainly think seriously about. It's around a three hour drive each way, but for some much needed work! I also need to fit some new (to me, but used) rear wings but that might be pushing it!

Thanks again for all of your help and support.

Is there any way of definitely confirming it's a VANOS issue?

Aye that is a long day for you then! Have to think long and hard about the logistics of it.
Unless you could come up the night before and stop somewhere?
If we're talking rear wings as well it's pushing it all in one day, though bigwinn's done more panel changes than me so may say otherwise?
I would suggest though that the whole process, including a night in a hotel, would still be cheaper than a garage.
Without hearing it of course I cannot guarantee the vanos is causing your rattle but at the mileage of your car it will definitely benefit from being changed regardless.

Yes, I think if it's manageable it'll be an overnight stay beforehand. I've not worked on cars before so would be good to gain some experience in that respect - it's very different from my day job!

Ig bigwinn is able to let us know his thoughts on how long it all may take that would be a real help too.

Thanks again!

The rear bumper off is a step towards taking the rear wings off anyway.
If we can wait for slightly longer days (with a better weather guarantee)I reckon we'll be fine.
What's the travel time to me in Attleborough, Norfolk? There's a hotel less than a mile from my house and providing Stuart is happy to travel that may be another option. If that were the case you could travel up the day before and we could make a start, then I could drop you at the hotel and collect you the next morning?
Loads of options. Have a think and I'm sure we can sort something out.

[patriot66]

Poortomsacold, when Enuff_Zed says change the VANOS regardless he is absolutely right. If you enjoy driving your Z4 now then you will enjoy it MUCH more with a rebuilt VANOS and your M54 realising its full potential. Bang for buck one of the best jobs you can do...Worth every penny !

[poortomsacold]

Poortomsacold, when Enuff_Zed says change the VANOS regardless he is absolutely right. If you enjoy driving your Z4 now then you will enjoy it MUCH more with a rebuilt VANOS and your M54 realising its full potential. Bang for buck one of the best jobs you can do...Worth every penny !

Yes from what I’ve read it sounds as though it’d be something well worth doing.

As is typical, when I started her up to drive home - no rattle. But it was a little warmer than when I set off this morning. Will try again tomorrow.

[enuff_zed]

I assume the oil is the correct level too?

[poortomsacold]

I assume the oil is the correct level too?

Morning. Am going to check that this weekend. If it needs topping up, what’s the recommended oil to use on these ones?

Thanks.

[enuff_zed]

I assume the oil is the correct level too?

Morning. Am going to check that this weekend. If it needs topping up, what’s the recommended oil to use on these ones?

Thanks.

Well ideally you would match whatever was put in last time, but a small top up will be fine.
Lots of opinions. I use Fuch Titan 5W40 in ours.
Have a read of this: viewtopic.php?t=116569

[poortomsacold]

I assume the oil is the correct level too?

Morning. Am going to check that this weekend. If it needs topping up, what’s the recommended oil to use on these ones?

Thanks.

Well ideally you would match whatever was put in last time, but a small top up will be fine.
Lots of opinions. I use Fuch Titan 5W40 in ours.
Have a read of this: viewtopic.php?t=116569

Thanks for that. Just started her up and the rattle is back, as well as a tapping (which may have been there before - I am probably listening out more than before). Although there seems to be conflicting info as to when to check the oil, the manual says at normal running temp so I'll take her out later and see how it reads.

[enuff_zed]

Morning. Am going to check that this weekend. If it needs topping up, what’s the recommended oil to use on these ones?

Thanks.

Well ideally you would match whatever was put in last time, but a small top up will be fine.
Lots of opinions. I use Fuch Titan 5W40 in ours.
Have a read of this: viewtopic.php?t=116569

Thanks for that. Just started her up and the rattle is back, as well as a tapping (which may have been there before - I am probably listening out more than before). Although there seems to be conflicting info as to when to check the oil, the manual says at normal running temp so I'll take her out later and see how it reads.

Are you sure the rattle is from the front?
Not the DISA valve on the left side?
Ideally you need to get someone else to start it while you listen under the bonnet.

[poortomsacold]

Well ideally you would match whatever was put in last time, but a small top up will be fine.
Lots of opinions. I use Fuch Titan 5W40 in ours.
Have a read of this: viewtopic.php?t=116569

Thanks for that. Just started her up and the rattle is back, as well as a tapping (which may have been there before - I am probably listening out more than before). Although there seems to be conflicting info as to when to check the oil, the manual says at normal running temp so I'll take her out later and see how it reads.

Are you sure the rattle is from the front?
Not the DISA valve on the left side?
Ideally you need to get someone else to start it while you listen under the bonnet.

It's funny you mention that but after I'd started it I did open the bonnet and put my head to the engine cover and it did sound as though the noise was coming from the left hand side - the section with the BMW logo on it. I did video it but would have to work out how to post videos on here!

[enuff_zed]

OK, well I'm not certain and not doom-mongering, but definitely check out the DISA valve.
Lots of info on here about it.
Simple to remove. Pop the inlet pipe off for access to the lower screw. Then it's just two torx screws, top and bottom, and an electrical plug.
Pull it out and check the flap. It is only located by two short plastic pins. These wear over time, causing the flap to rattle. Eventually the whole thing lets go and heads for the inlet valves. For 20 minutes of your time it could potentially save you a big bill.

[poortomsacold]

OK, well I'm not certain and not doom-mongering, but definitely check out the DISA valve.
Lots of info on here about it.
Simple to remove. Pop the inlet pipe off for access to the lower screw. Then it's just two torx screws, top and bottom, and an electrical plug.
Pull it out and check the flap. It is only located by two short plastic pins. These wear over time, causing the flap to rattle. Eventually the whole thing lets go and heads for the inlet valves. For 20 minutes of your time it could potentially save you a big bill.

Thanks enuff-zed - I'll remove and inspect it shortly, and report back!

[poortomsacold]

OK, well I'm not certain and not doom-mongering, but definitely check out the DISA valve.
Lots of info on here about it.
Simple to remove. Pop the inlet pipe off for access to the lower screw. Then it's just two torx screws, top and bottom, and an electrical plug.
Pull it out and check the flap. It is only located by two short plastic pins. These wear over time, causing the flap to rattle. Eventually the whole thing lets go and heads for the inlet valves. For 20 minutes of your time it could potentially save you a big bill.

Thanks enuff-zed - I'll remove and inspect it shortly, and report back!

Right DISA valve looks to be in good order - no rattles or looseness so that's one thing ruled out. Checked oil and whilst the car is cold it's on the right level - certainly not low.

And I should have clarified that when looking at the car front on, the rattle seems to be from the left hand side of the engine from what I can tell, so the driver side.

[enuff_zed]

OK, well I'm not certain and not doom-mongering, but definitely check out the DISA valve.
Lots of info on here about it.
Simple to remove. Pop the inlet pipe off for access to the lower screw. Then it's just two torx screws, top and bottom, and an electrical plug.
Pull it out and check the flap. It is only located by two short plastic pins. These wear over time, causing the flap to rattle. Eventually the whole thing lets go and heads for the inlet valves. For 20 minutes of your time it could potentially save you a big bill.

Thanks enuff-zed - I'll remove and inspect it shortly, and report back!

Right DISA valve looks to be in good order - no rattles or looseness so that's one thing ruled out. Checked oil and whilst the car is cold it's on the right level - certainly not low.

And I should have clarified that when looking at the car front on, the rattle seems to be from the left hand side of the engine from what I can tell, so the driver side.

Ah the old my left, your right scenario!
Good to know the disa is ok though.
Not something as simple as the heat shield is it? The bolts rot through and leave it flapping about.

[poortomsacold]

Thanks enuff-zed - I'll remove and inspect it shortly, and report back!

Right DISA valve looks to be in good order - no rattles or looseness so that's one thing ruled out. Checked oil and whilst the car is cold it's on the right level - certainly not low.

And I should have clarified that when looking at the car front on, the rattle seems to be from the left hand side of the engine from what I can tell, so the driver side.

Ah the old my left, your right scenario!
Good to know the disa is ok though.
Not something as simple as the heat shield is it? The bolts rot through and leave it flapping about.

Okay so a quick inspection of the heat shield and that seems solid and not rattling. Have listened again and unless the rattle is travelling up from the lower regions of the engine, I would say the rattle is coming from within the area I have circled in red.

20230209_142307.jpg (155.78 KiB) Viewed 332 times

[enuff_zed]

Bingo!
Vanos. It means that when you get an overhaul kit for it you need to get one that includes the rattle rings.
It does mean that you can relax a little though as apart from losing a bit of torque (which was probably gone long before you got it) there is no immediate rush to save your engine.

https://x8r.co.uk/for-bmw-double-twin-d ... skets.html