Manual passenger seat stuck

[Mr Tidy]

Oops - too late.

Don't worry, they aren't like Aero sills or M-Sport seats! I think I gave £30 when I bought a second one to go under the driver's seat. If you want a replacement it is the same part on E46 3 Series.

Good luck.

[skmattwell]

It just pulls off forwards! It’s only a friction fit.

I realised this after taking my frustration out on it, and ironically injuring myself on the first aid box

Oops - too late.

Don't worry, they aren't like Aero sills or M-Sport seats! I think I gave £30 when I bought a second one to go under the driver's seat. If you want a replacement it is the same part on E46 3 Series.

Good luck.

I have one on the seat that is due to go in, even with the original (but presumably now useless) first aid kit form 2003

[Mr Tidy]

I have one on the seat that is due to go in, even with the original (but presumably now useless) first aid kit form 2003

If you might ever want another one for the driver's seat fit the bracket to the seat base before you put the seat in the car! Fitting it with the seat in place was hard work.

[skmattwell]

Hello mate, I’ve had a really good look at the seats on the bench and in the car. There is very little to obstruct the slider at the rear of the rail closest to the centre console. Assuming you can see right through to the locking mechanism from the front of the rail, it must be the locking mechanism itself that is jammed. Have you tried really manipulating (overtwisting) the locking bar?
So you have got the four nuts off from inside the rails (two per rail, see pic 1), but you need some space to wriggle the “legs” off the bolts. You need about a centimetre and a half. If you can lift the front of the rails enough to get them off the floor bolts, either both or one at a time, and then push the rails outwards (the carpets are pretty deep and you have a little space laterally, see pic 2), you should be able to wriggle the seats off the rail bolts maybe with the help of a big screwdriver to apply some leverage behind the leg where it goes over the bolt. Once you’ve done one side, the other side should be easy. If you can do this, you will be able to tip the seat back which will give you much better access to the locking bar. You may then be able to lever one of the rear legs off its bolt and Bob’s your uncle, you’re off the rails. . . . and you haven’t destroyed anything.
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Cheers mate, really appreciate the advise. The bit I'm stuck on is getting the four bolts off the inside rail, as I can only access the front two. Ive tried overtwisting as you suggest, but the lever prevents me from going any further than it normally would. With that in mind, should I break the link between the lever and the locking bar so that i can twist it further?

My last update of the day, now I've got the front two legs disconnected from the rail I'm able to have a better look around underneath. As per the photo, the locking pin on the stuck side is definitely disengaging, so I can only presume there's some seriously stubborn rust build up holding it somehow. Here's a photo of the locking pin up and down. As you can see, the rail is in a poor state.

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The rear legs are pushed tight to the rails and don't come close to being levered off. I'm guessing that just leaves the option of cutting through one of them so it can slide out?

[skmattwell]

Time for you daily update

I have successfully cut through one of the rear legs, allowing the seat to slide off the leg on the opposing side. The seat is officially separated from the car

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Obviously the rail itself is still stuck in there, so trying to get that out is a task for the next few days. If anyone has any suggestions other than my last resort of cutting through the bolts, it would be appreciated.

My remaining questions are actually about the airbags. Currently my battery is disconnected and roof up. I seem to have enough room to remove the current seat without taking the roof down, but would I be able to put in the new sports seats in with the roof on? The reason being that I really don't want the airbags going off when I reattach the battery if one of the seats is disconnected. Unless of course having one seat disconnected doesn't trigger the airbags?

If I remember correctly, the manual roof release on the vehicle doesn't seem to work

[Usel]

Thank **** for that, been a painful read and frustrated me with you having this problem.

Is it not possible to connect the seat you're removing back up so you can connect battery?

[Usel]

Also is it possible to drill a hole through rail above where the bolt is? Not seen rails so no idea if it has a flat area to drill through?

[skmattwell]

Thank **** for that, been a painful read and frustrated me with you having this problem.

Is it not possible to connect the seat you're removing back up so you can connect battery?

Haha it really has been the most frustrating job I've ever had to do on a car

So at this point the seat is still connected, so I could take the roof down. It's just a nuisance as it means I'd need to get the new seats in before it goes back up, which might be difficult id the rail it being stubborn.

Good idea regarding drilling through, but it's right where the seatbelt connects to the base and is very heavy duty for that reason.

I think I'm going to remove the seat, remove the stuck rails, and then plug the old seat (which I know I can get in and out with the roof on) back in while I remove the roof. Then I can fiiiinally fit my sport seats like a normal person

[Zedebee]

Glad you got the seats out, I hope my suggestion was helpful.

Don’t worry, the airbags won’t “go off” if you reconnect the battery, but you might get an airbag warning light. This is easy to reset if you have a decent code reader. Creator C310+ will do it, you just need to know where in the menu to look.

Hopefully, with the seat off, the outside rail is free to slide so you should be able to remove it. Now you have access to the inside rail, you must be able to see where it’s jamming, but if not you can drill access to the securing bolt. Don’t do anything to damage the floor of the car or you will have difficulty fitting your new seats. Unlike the fronts, the rear fixings are bolts, not nuts.

P.s. if you are tipping the seats, can I have dibs on your headrests please?

[Usel]

Thank **** for that, been a painful read and frustrated me with you having this problem.

Is it not possible to connect the seat you're removing back up so you can connect battery?

I think I'm going to remove the seat, remove the stuck rails, and then plug the old seat (which I know I can get in and out with the roof on) back in while I remove the roof. Then I can fiiiinally fit my sport seats like a normal person

That' what I meant

[skmattwell]

Glad you got the seats out, I hope my suggestion was helpful.

Don’t worry, the airbags won’t “go off” if you reconnect the battery, but you might get an airbag warning light. This is easy to reset if you have a decent code reader. Creator C310+ will do it, you just need to know where in the menu to look.

Hopefully, with the seat off, the outside rail is free to slide so you should be able to remove it. Now you have access to the inside rail, you must be able to see where it’s jamming, but if not you can drill access to the securing bolt. Don’t do anything to damage the floor of the car or you will have difficulty fitting your new seats. Unlike the fronts, the rear fixings are bolts, not nuts.

P.s. if you are tipping the seats, can I have dibs on your headrests please?

Can I comfirm you're saying the airbags wont go off with the seat fully disconnected?

Also I'm going to try my luck selling the driver's side, but anything you want from the seat I've cut off is yours free of charge

[Zedebee]

Can I comfirm you're saying the airbags wont go off with the seat fully disconnected?

Never in my experience. I’ve done several seat swaps now and I’ve not disconnected the battery on at least a couple of occasions. I have had the airbag warning light, but that is easily cleared. I have never read any forum report of an airbag going off as a result of disconnecting the seats. Generally it’s only an impact or direct tampering with the airbag itself that will set them off as far as I know.

Also I'm going to try my luck selling the driver's side, but anything you want from the seat I've cut off is yours free of charge

Cheers, happy to pay for postage.

[skmattwell]

Can I comfirm you're saying the airbags wont go off with the seat fully disconnected?

Never in my experience. I’ve done several seat swaps now and I’ve not disconnected the battery on at least a couple of occasions. I have had the airbag warning light, but that is easily cleared. I have never read any forum report of an airbag going off as a result of disconnecting the seats. Generally it’s only an impact or direct tampering with the airbag itself that will set them off as far as I know.

Also I'm going to try my luck selling the driver's side, but anything you want from the seat I've cut off is yours free of charge

Cheers, happy to pay for postage.

Will obviously try to install the new seats with the roof on but good to know I'm not screwed if I have to.

Don't worry about it, you've helped me plenty enough. Just pm me your address and I'll get it sent. Will be selling the drivers side for £50, you're welcome to first dibs on those if you like, even if you just want the headrest

[Zedebee]

Will obviously try to install the new seats with the roof on but good to know I'm not screwed if I have to.

One thing I can guarantee, is that it’s easier to change the seats with the roof down! Changing them in a coupe, by myself, is not something I ever want to do again.

[skmattwell]

**Time for your daily update** (you'll miss these one day )

The seat and the non-jammed rail are now fully out, leaving just the rail causing all the trouble. Ive had a good look in the runners and still can't see anything that may be obstructing it, other than this metal ball perhaps?

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I'm guessing it's a bearing that is meant to be there, but either way it is stuck fast. No amount of hammering or levering is moving it.

This is the area immediately above the last remaining bolt holding the rail in. It seems a tricky area to drill out.

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My strategy therefore is to cut the rail right through, around where I have drawn the red line. With any luck the blockage will be in an area of the rail that will have been sawn off, leaving just a small section of rail that should hopefully slide right off.

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If that doesn't work, I think cutting through the bolt is the only option left. Unless anyone has any better ideas of course