Looking for a decent Low-Profile trolley jack & jack stands. Any tips?

[BeardyJon]

I need to put my car up on some jack stands to do some work to it, but having a little trouble shopping around for a decent trolley jack as many of them seem to be accompanied by some nightmare reviews of them dropping the car on the folks using them. Can't be sure if they're using them wrong or not but it's making me v anxious to make sure I'm not buying a dud. Anyone know any good reliable brands, or things to look for when buying? Cheers!

[inkey$]

I've used a low profile SGS trolley jack for years and its been brilliant.
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage- ... HIQAvD_BwE

[Pondrew]

I bought this trolley jack. Cheap as chips and works really well. I was worried about it dropping while a wheel was off the car, so tested it out. I jacked the car up to almost full height with the wheels on and left the jack there for 3 days. No movement whatsoever!
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-cr ... jack/8827r

[brillomaster]

SGS for me too, worked fine over the years.

[plenty]

Don't worry too much about brand - trolley jacks are simple things, and failures are usually due to user error or using really old/worn jacks. I'm still using cheap jacks that are 15 years old. You should never be in a position to get hurt due to jack failure - use the jack to raise the car which is then supported by stands. Never go under a car that is only supported by a jack.

On an E85 you may need two jacks - one lifting at the side to get enough clearance for the second to reach the front jacking point under the cross member which is located quite far back, behind the undertray. You then remove the first jack, place the stands underneath the side jacking points, and lower the jack under the cross member and let the car's weight settle on the stands.

The Hilka product above is a good budget choice but make sure to get a rubber pad or use a thin block of wood to prevent chassis damage.

If you want to spend time underneath and do bigger jobs like exhaust or clutch you'll want more lift than what the cheaper jacks offer (usually max 35 cm, meaning you won't be able to use axle stands at max height). This Halfords job is another level up (and much heavier) offering 50 cm lift: https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-w ... 63126.html

[Pondrew]

The Hilka product above is a good budget choice but make sure to get a rubber pad or use a thin block of wood to prevent chassis damage.

I use mine 'as is' on both my BMs. Three of the four upstands on the lifting pad sit into the jacking points, the fourth is outside but doesn't touch anything. No damage to anything. I have had to make a timber 'adaptor' for my other car, as that doesn't have the box-section jacking points.

[plenty]

The Hilka product above is a good budget choice but make sure to get a rubber pad or use a thin block of wood to prevent chassis damage.

I use mine 'as is' on both my BMs. Three of the four upstands on the lifting pad sit into the jacking points, the fourth is outside but doesn't touch anything. No damage to anything. I have had to make a timber 'adaptor' for my other car, as that doesn't have the box-section jacking points.

Of course - I was thinking more of the front central jacking point. The rubber inserts that fit into the side jacking points do get chewed up over time without a pad on the trolley jack, but they are cheap and easy to replace.

[Rich61]

Iv had this one for about 5 years and never let me down.
got mine from costco but looks exactly the same. use it on the Z4 and E61
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tja15r- ... olley-jack

[patriot66]

Don't worry too much about brand - trolley jacks are simple things, and failures are usually due to user error or using really old/worn jacks. I'm still using cheap jacks that are 15 years old. You should never be in a position to get hurt due to jack failure - use the jack to raise the car which is then supported by stands. Never go under a car that is only supported by a jack.

On an E85 you may need two jacks - one lifting at the side to get enough clearance for the second to reach the front jacking point under the cross member which is located quite far back, behind the undertray. You then remove the first jack, place the stands underneath the side jacking points, and lower the jack under the cross member and let the car's weight settle on the stands.

The Hilka product above is a good budget choice but make sure to get a rubber pad or use a thin block of wood to prevent chassis damage.

If you want to spend time underneath and do bigger jobs like exhaust or clutch you'll want more lift than what the cheaper jacks offer (usually max 35 cm, meaning you won't be able to use axle stands at max height). This Halfords job is another level up (and much heavier) offering 50 cm lift: https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-w ... 63126.html

The O/P has an E89 which I'm unfamiliar with so don't know if they have a front central jacking point. On the E85/86 ONLY the M models have a central front jacking point

[plenty]

The O/P has an E89 which I'm unfamiliar with so don't know if they have a front central jacking point. On the E85/86 ONLY the M models have a central front jacking point

Oh right. I assume you can lift each side via the rear jacking points and gain enough clearance to fit an axle stand under the front jacking points.

[Mr Tidy]

I bought a low-profile SGS one a few years ago and use it twice a year to swap between winter/summer wheels on my 3 Series. But I've also used it on my Z4 when I swapped the wheels on that and it was fine.

It's worth getting a jacking pad that fits into the BMW jacking points - they're only a few quid online.

[B21]

Don't worry too much about brand - trolley jacks are simple things, and failures are usually due to user error or using really old/worn jacks. I'm still using cheap jacks that are 15 years old. You should never be in a position to get hurt due to jack failure - use the jack to raise the car which is then supported by stands. Never go under a car that is only supported by a jack.

On an E85 you may need two jacks - one lifting at the side to get enough clearance for the second to reach the front jacking point under the cross member which is located quite far back, behind the undertray. You then remove the first jack, place the stands underneath the side jacking points, and lower the jack under the cross member and let the car's weight settle on the stands.

The Hilka product above is a good budget choice but make sure to get a rubber pad or use a thin block of wood to prevent chassis damage.

If you want to spend time underneath and do bigger jobs like exhaust or clutch you'll want more lift than what the cheaper jacks offer (usually max 35 cm, meaning you won't be able to use axle stands at max height). This Halfords job is another level up (and much heavier) offering 50 cm lift: https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-w ... 63126.html

The O/P has an E89 which I'm unfamiliar with so don't know if they have a front central jacking point. On the E85/86 ONLY the M models have a central front jacking point

Turns out you can jack the E89 at several points..they point out on the diff its the main body..not the end cover and not the shield!

[B21]

I have both the Screwfix (Hilka) low profile and normal versions..both fit under an MSport E89 ok..

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-cr ... jack/7504g

[smorris_12]

I've got the cheaper (£40/£50) Halfords low profile jack and it's excellent. It lifts higher than my standard trolley jacks. Wish I'd bought one years ago for my 3er which was slightly low for the ordinary ones.

[Nick W]

I've had a couple of machine mart low profile jacks for around 10 years now. Always protected by oil and grease but usually left lying around outside. They are a very stable full size, have a quick initial lift, a good final height and have been given plenty of heavy abuse. Never leaked any oil and I still Trust them (But not as much as axle stands).