Z4 E89 2011 Roof not working

[Mgaman]

Hello all, just thought I would post a fix on my Z4 roof. Might help someone

The roof had failed last year, when it failed to complete the opening or closing cycle - leaving the windows down and un operable on opening and the rear window sitting on the roof when closing (windows also un operable) There is an excellent write up on here already about the fix for this which turned out to be one of the Hall sensors on the hydraulic arm on the right side of the boot/truck. Replacing this hall sensor is very easy and it fixed the problem last year - thank you to that member.
This month the same exact thing happened, roof folds into boot but the windows don't go up and the fault light comes on - try driving and the bonging starts!

So reluctantly I went to BMW and bought another Hall sensor - Over £200 for a bit of wire and a magnet!!! Fitted it and no change!! Disconnected it and no change either?
My logic was that it you disconnect it and the same faulty roof operation works then it must be that sensor? Not in my case as far as I can see.

I went to a local and very friendly garage near me who service the car and they did a diagnostic check (for free!!) for me which showed
Rear end Module Closed Left - Yes
Rear end Module Closed Right - no

Operating the roof with the diagnostic tool attached showed that one of these wasn't changing as the roof operated - it was the right one.
There is another good write up on here about swapping out the right rear micro switch - item 7 on the attached picture.
I was very nervous about removing the hinge mechanism but it wasn't that hard to do and I marked the three nut positions very carefully to ensure the hinge went back in the right place. I used a Dremel to form a slot for a flat screwdriver in the two small screws which hold the switch in place - they had a torx head but wouldn't budge. Using a flat screwdriver under pressure got them out OK and I have reused them.
The switch came with a new style connector - so I had to remove this and pull out the connectors then use the old connector fitted to the new switch. Not that hard to do. No need to cut and solder the wires.
I put the switch back and the hinge and hey presto the roof now works as it should.
I'm not sure if the car needed both the hall sensor and the micro switch or just the microswitch and I'm not going to undo it to find out. Maybe I could have just swapped out the microswitch especially as the hall sensor was only a year old?? The micro switch was also a lot cheaper at about £25. IMG_9968.jpeg

IMG_9968.jpeg (166.72 KiB) Viewed 1197 times

IMG_9968.jpeg (166.72 KiB) Viewed 1197 times

There are a load of sensors and microswitches on this roof - so depending on how the fault shows itself it could be any one/two of them. Getting the diagnostic check done by my friendly garage - local village garage - was the answer for me as I was allowed to read and interpret the reader.

[javis20]

Test the microswitch, you removed, with your volt ohm meter. That should tell you if it's the culprit.

[warmasice]

Very useful. Thank you. How did you swap the connectors? Did you use some kind of tool that meant you didn't require any soldering?

[Deepseaskateboard]

Very useful. Thank you. How did you swap the connectors? Did you use some kind of tool that meant you didn't require any soldering?

This is what I was talking about in the other thread, there is a new loom which fits the new connector.
Once I am back, I will check the invoice for a part number.

[Deepseaskateboard]

I was able to dig out the invoice.

See here for description of parts and part numbers.

The B61 must be the new wiring.

[warmasice]

Ah ok, that makes sense. I guess that's BMWs official way of repairing it.

[RobbiZ4]

Test the microswitch, you removed, with your volt ohm meter. That should tell you if it's the culprit.

No, in general these old microswitches are not "dead" but electrically ok, if switched and measured manually.

My general recommendation is, to replace both microswitches after 10 years in advance.

[RobbiZ4]

The switch came with a new style connector - so I had to remove this and pull out the connectors then use the old connector fitted to the new switch. Not that hard to do. No need to cut and solder the wires.

Perfect! That's the way I adapt the new switches to the elder hydraulic harnesses depending on their build date. No additional plugs/wires/harnesses/solderings are required, just re-pin it into the old housings.