intermittent roof problems

[flybobbie]

Something odd the obd says pump temp is 300 F.
Pump runs fine when buttons pressed.

[RobbiZ4]

The window frame micro clicks, so at this point assuming that is working.

The front latch is connected by a harness of its own, lying in parrallel to the roof hydraulic harness on the right.

At the CTM, there are 2 connectors:
1) a 2-pole for the latch motor, directly connected to the CTM
2) a 5-pole small flat plug next to the black 41-pole CTM plug, that connects the two microswitches from the latch motor

Both are working the same way as the typical roof switches: 560 ohms as well as 2.7k ohms. You should check it.

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[flybobbie]

I'm assuming the microswitch in the windshield frame top, tells the motor to rotate cam to latch.
The cam microswitches seem to work, rear shell 2 moves up or down when i press the switches manually.

I need to check if the windshield switch is operating on the obd reader.

[RobbiZ4]

I'm assuming the microswitch in the windshield frame top, tells the motor to rotate cam to latch.

Umpfh, I've seen already a windshield MS, that was flooded and destroyed by WD40. Hopefully yours is ok.

[flybobbie]

Today's plan is pull plug off the lock motor and drive it by battery to the locked position.

[Chippie]

Use high flexible wires (LIFY 0,25 mm), not thicker ones. There are only 4 mA to support, no nuclear power plant!

From searching online it seems 0.14 mm2 is easily sourced, would that be ok to use?

[RobbiZ4]

From searching online it seems 0.14 mm2 is easily sourced, would that be ok to use?

I wouldn't suggest 0.14 mm2 in an area with heavy movements. That is very tiny and difficult to work with, as it has a higher risk to just tear it.
0.25 mm2 is a minimum in the cars. The OEM take stiffer 0.35 mm2 to 0.50 mm2 for the sensor wires.

I use these ones:
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/tru-componen ... 67802.html

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Not these:

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[Chippie]

From searching online it seems 0.14 mm2 is easily sourced, would that be ok to use?

I wouldn't suggest 0.14 mm2 in an area with heavy movements. That is very tiny and difficult to work with, as it has a higher risk to just tear it.
0.25 mm2 is a minimum in the cars. The OEM take stiffer 0.35 mm2 to 0.50 mm2 for the sensor wires.

I use these ones:
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/tru-componen ... 67802.html
20220621_091334_cpr.jpg


Not these:
Bild1.jpg

Thanks for that RobbiZ4
I don’t need them yet but with the Zed 11 years old I fear the worst so planning ahead and getting stocked up.

[flybobbie]

Seen LiFy wire, goes for about £6 metre.

So car roof all sorted now.
Sometimes just chase your tail.
I did at one point pull the Hall sensor and test it.
It was cracked but worked fine.
I tested with 9volt battery in series with multimeter set to 200ma.
Results.

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20220621_123048.jpg (88.57 KiB) Viewed 398 times

I just placed a craft blade on it, any steel will do.
So i soldered it minus the connector direct to wires and refitted.
So having about 3 different coloured wires on one length.......i ended up getting them crossed
No matter how careful i was i still managed to f u.
(Bit weird i was working next to where we buried the works cat, i asked, "Ollie where have i gone wrong," i imaged he would meow" Crossed wires?")
But all working now.

I also fitted a wire from the boot to cabin to remote release the boot when roof is half open.

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I intercepted the grey/green wire (goes to the boot unlock solenoid), popped in a diode, didn't want any power i added going back to any module.
Then passed wire through to cabin.
I can now apply 12volt to wire, plus ground and open the boot at any point in roof operation.
Might even wire it to the cabin boot release button i bought but never wired.

[RobbiZ4]

Seen LiFy wire, goes for about £6 metre.

The 50m roles LIFY 0.25 mm² from CONRAD cost about 10€ per colour. That is 0,20€ / 20ct per meter.

So car roof all sorted now.

Well done, congratulations.

I did at one point pull the Hall sensor and test it.
It was cracked but worked fine.

As already written, none of the cracked, rusty and non-working hall sensors I've already replaced had an electrical issue. Nothing can be measured, as the magnetic field is disturbed, which lead to timing failures.

[flybobbie]

Well i measured the current change on the bench and did the same in situ using the ram to trigger sensor.

[RobbiZ4]

Well i measured the current change on the bench and did the same in situ using the ram to trigger sensor.

Yes I see. But so far I'm not sure what's up with the rusty and/or cracked HS.
The range of failure modes on these HS is varied: from short bongs with interrupted moves up to main columns crashing into a closed trunk lid. I suspect that the current change occurs too early or too late due to a disturbed magnetic field. One of the last mysteries of this roof.

[RobbiZ4]

Use high flexible wires (LIFY 0,25 mm), not thicker ones. There are only 4 mA to support, no nuclear power plant!

The 50m roles LIFY 0.25 mm² from CONRAD cost about 10€ per colour. That is 0,20€ / 20ct per meter.

My LiFY roles:

20220622_133517.jpg (180.56 KiB) Viewed 355 times

[flybobbie]

Yes good idea to have some at hand................the correct colours!

[RobbiZ4]

..the correct colours!