Operating Temperature

[spielnicht]

Still new to my recently acquired 2011 35is having only put 200 miles over the past 2 months. One thing I've noticed that's bugging me but could very well be normal is how long it takes for the car to reach operating temperature. Compared to my F10 550i, the Z4 takes at least 3x as long to just move past 160F, where my 550i is already at operating temp. I literally drove for 10 mins (4miles) the other day when it was 75 degrees outside and it barely moved past 160. It's not until I drive for 30 mins does it actually get to operating temp.

Obviously a lot of differences between the two cars. The 550i is a V8 and sardined in the engine bay, where as the Z4 engine has more space than my home office.

So is this normal?

[Johnbmwz4]

My 3.5i takes ages to get to normal operating temp, like you say around 30 mins before needle gets to normal operating temp. This is normal though as this is my 2nd 3.5i and that was exactly the same .

[spielnicht]

Thank you for confirming that. Just wanted to double check I didn't have a bad temp sensor.

My 3.5i takes ages to get to normal operating temp, like you say around 30 mins before needle gets to normal operating temp. This is normal though as this is my 2nd 3.5i and that was exactly the same .

[Chippie]

Thank you for confirming that. Just wanted to double check I didn't have a bad temp sensor.

My 3.5i takes ages to get to normal operating temp, like you say around 30 mins before needle gets to normal operating temp. This is normal though as this is my 2nd 3.5i and that was exactly the same .

Don’t get confused with the temperature gauge it’s for the oil temp and not water temp

[R.E92]

It's also quite common for the thermostat to get tired and let coolant pass on the N54. It's not a widely talked about issue but both my N54 cars had the same symptom at roughly 60k miles. In my experience BMW thermostats always fail open, I've done the same job on almost every one I've owned but the N54 is the most annoying since it's underneath the engine!

On the Z4 I used it as an excuse to replace the water pump as it was on the original. On my 335i it was taking a while to warm up but BMW had already replaced the pump just before I purchased the car so I just replaced the thermostat.

The easy way to tell is that on a good motorway run the oil temp needle should sit 1 notch under the midpoint. Any less and you have a lazy thermostat. Your car is almost certainly having thermostat issues if your oil is at 160f after 10 miles.

It's not an urgent problem, you'll just get lower fuel mileage and slightly more engine wear. You should also replace the water pump at the same time since it's only 3 extra bolts once the thermostat is out.

[Johnbmwz4]

Thank you for confirming that. Just wanted to double check I didn't have a bad temp sensor.

My 3.5i takes ages to get to normal operating temp, like you say around 30 mins before needle gets to normal operating temp. This is normal though as this is my 2nd 3.5i and that was exactly the same .

Don’t get confused with the temperature gauge it’s for the oil temp and not water temp

Yeah I know that the temperature gauge is for oil and not water hence why the long time for the needle to move is imagine?

[Busterboo]

Still new to my recently acquired 2011 35is having only put 200 miles over the past 2 months ...

So that's 25 miles a week, 1300 a year. Worth buying?

[spielnicht]

I'll definitely keep an eye on the sensor as I drive it more. Car only has 25K so thinking this is likely normal (but new to me).

It's also quite common for the thermostat to get tired and let coolant pass on the N54. It's not a widely talked about issue but both my N54 cars had the same symptom at roughly 60k miles. In my experience BMW thermostats always fail open, I've done the same job on almost every one I've owned but the N54 is the most annoying since it's underneath the engine!

On the Z4 I used it as an excuse to replace the water pump as it was on the original. On my 335i it was taking a while to warm up but BMW had already replaced the pump just before I purchased the car so I just replaced the thermostat.

The easy way to tell is that on a good motorway run the oil temp needle should sit 1 notch under the midpoint. Any less and you have a lazy thermostat. Your car is almost certainly having thermostat issues if your oil is at 160f after 10 miles.

It's not an urgent problem, you'll just get lower fuel mileage and slightly more engine wear. You should also replace the water pump at the same time since it's only 3 extra bolts once the thermostat is out.

Definitely planning on putting more miles on the car. It's just the timing (new job) and s series of unfortunate temporary events that prevented me from driving it more.

Still new to my recently acquired 2011 35is having only put 200 miles over the past 2 months ...

So that's 25 miles a week, 1300 a year. Worth buying?

[mcbutler]

Pre

It's also quite common for the thermostat to get tired and let coolant pass on the N54. It's not a widely talked about issue but both my N54 cars had the same symptom at roughly 60k miles. In my experience BMW thermostats always fail open, I've done the same job on almost every one I've owned but the N54 is the most annoying since it's underneath the engine!

On the Z4 I used it as an excuse to replace the water pump as it was on the original. On my 335i it was taking a while to warm up but BMW had already replaced the pump just before I purchased the car so I just replaced the thermostat.

The easy way to tell is that on a good motorway run the oil temp needle should sit 1 notch under the midpoint. Any less and you have a lazy thermostat. Your car is almost certainly having thermostat issues if your oil is at 160f after 10 miles.

It's not an urgent problem, you'll just get lower fuel mileage and slightly more engine wear. You should also replace the water pump at the same time since it's only 3 extra bolts once the thermostat is out.

Spot on as usual - another issue might be the fitting of an aftermarket oil cooler bypass spool valve, I run one on my car and it averages 85 - 90deg C oil temp on the dash gauge during normal running.
With regard to water temp on my 35i, its blowing hot (not warm) air from the heater within a mile or so.

[mcbutler]

I'll definitely keep an eye on the sensor as I drive it more. Car only has 25K so thinking this is likely normal (but new to me).

It's also quite common for the thermostat to get tired and let coolant pass on the N54. It's not a widely talked about issue but both my N54 cars had the same symptom at roughly 60k miles. In my experience BMW thermostats always fail open, I've done the same job on almost every one I've owned but the N54 is the most annoying since it's underneath the engine!

On the Z4 I used it as an excuse to replace the water pump as it was on the original. On my 335i it was taking a while to warm up but BMW had already replaced the pump just before I purchased the car so I just replaced the thermostat.

The easy way to tell is that on a good motorway run the oil temp needle should sit 1 notch under the midpoint. Any less and you have a lazy thermostat. Your car is almost certainly having thermostat issues if your oil is at 160f after 10 miles.

It's not an urgent problem, you'll just get lower fuel mileage and slightly more engine wear. You should also replace the water pump at the same time since it's only 3 extra bolts once the thermostat is out.

Definitely planning on putting more miles on the car. It's just the timing (new job) and s series of unfortunate temporary events that prevented me from driving it more.

Still new to my recently acquired 2011 35is having only put 200 miles over the past 2 months ...

So that's 25 miles a week, 1300 a year. Worth buying?

I bought mine at 10 yrs old with 24k on it FSH annual inspections by BMW and have had endless problems, the HPFP had already been relapced at 22k mies!
Hardly driving a car does not seem to add to its reliability and its probably fair to say it could make it more unreliable. Dry unlubricated seals and roller bearings, shells developing flat spots, bone dry oil galleries when its started, dried out gaskets etc etc

[flybobbie]

I wouldn't fit anything that keeps oil temperature below 100 C, you will never boil off any moisture.

I'm concerned my 23i doesn't reach 100 in the winter on my 7 mile trip to work.

[R.E92]

I wouldn't fit anything that keeps oil temperature below 100 C, you will never boil off any moisture.

I'm concerned my 23i doesn't reach 100 in the winter on my 7 mile trip to work.

That was my concern too. My oil would only get hot enough to expell the moisture during hard drive cycles. Now it gets up to 110 even on short journeys. In this summer weather if I drive it in sport mode the oil will get up to temp under in 10 minutes of city driving.

[mcbutler]

I wouldn't fit anything that keeps oil temperature below 100 C, you will never boil off any moisture.

I'm concerned my 23i doesn't reach 100 in the winter on my 7 mile trip to work.

Is this a real issue though? When you turn off the engine in cold weather its full of warm moist air, this will condense on the inside surfaces of the engine as it cools returning any moisture to the engine anyway... Just a thought
In any case we are talking about tiny amounts of moisture and water starts to evaporate below 100 degC anyway just not as vigorously as when its boiling. Add to this the warm air being passed through the crankcase and I dont think its any real problem.
In addition how accurately does sump oil temp reflect against cylinder head temp I wonder?

[Vagueante]

My 18i, after oil change (BMW oil), in highaway around 120/140KM/h (outside temp around 25º C), its always near the 120 degree Oil temp.

Isn't it too high?

[flybobbie]

I wouldn't fit anything that keeps oil temperature below 100 C, you will never boil off any moisture.

I'm concerned my 23i doesn't reach 100 in the winter on my 7 mile trip to work.

Is this a real issue though? When you turn off the engine in cold weather its full of warm moist air, this will condense on the inside surfaces of the engine as it cools returning any moisture to the engine anyway... Just a thought
In any case we are talking about tiny amounts of moisture and water starts to evaporate below 100 degC anyway just not as vigorously as when its boiling. Add to this the warm air being passed through the crankcase and I dont think its any real problem.
In addition how accurately does sump oil temp reflect against cylinder head temp I wonder?

Well hoping any moister gets sucked out through the oil breather.