Upgrading Z4 E89s with the 677 Hi-Fi/DSP option

[The.Analyst]

Would be interesting to see how easy it would be to switch the head unit to analogue outputs …the wiring harness must be audio specific at least in key places..if you could have switched the head unit then you could run the cables from the head to an analogue amp or your favourite DSP that would have been cheaper..but then a fair amount of connector butchery would be called for I suspect?

[Ed.Straker]

Ever thought about the ability to go back in time?

[B21]

Ever thought about the ability to go back in time?

Sadly Ed, the only way is forward..just got these babies in..

New uprated door speakers with very nice tweeters (didn't have the heart to strip them out of the old 20i)

New sub-woofers (2 ohm needed for new amp..old Alpine class D amp at 250 rms was driving 2 4 ohm in parallel, new amp has two 165w 2 ohm channels)

New woofers (OE ones are crap, and the 20i ones are expoxied in)

Enjoy..

[cwunch]

B21,
Hope everything is going well on your project.

Once, I have tested the 677 sound system of a 2010 model 35i, and very impressed with the power and acoustics of the original system. first, I would have tried to change the tweeters with some soft/silk ones, and then the mid drivers with a little more efficient and higher quality ones, thats it…


Unfortunately, Z4 that I bought came with the basic 6 speaker stereo (also, No sound over bluetooth)
16cm woofer? in the footwell, a 10cm mid-hi in the door and a speaker which sounds like a mushroom behind my left shoulder.

Could you please share your idea, about upgrading this system with the least amount of changes. I am not financially ready for a 16 unit system

If it is possible, I can even go with a 6 speaker stereo. Maybe a 3 way component? Or Bass/sub at footwells, mid-tweeter components in doors. (Rear speakers might even be cancelled, if we are not hearing rear pdc from them)

[B21]

There’s been a couple of people here who have upgraded their 6 speaker system,,,silver star and mr Tourette ..

So a summary is..

The 6 speaker system uses an internal amp to the head unit , unless it’s a N20 unit in which case the ASD provides the amp duties.

It has 4 channels.

Also the audio profile has a heavily slugged rear speaker feed which is why in part it sounds so sh***y..

So the simple solution is an external amp ideally 6 channels or 4 channels with a passive crossover

2 front channels feed 2 door speakers via an external amp where some cheaper 100mm after market speakers will yield benefits either with coaxial tweeter or discrete tweeter and crossover on door tweeter grills.

2 channels feed external rear speakers or maybe you can get away with OE channels..

Then 2 bass speakers off the front channels via cross over if paired with door speakers..

Code the headunit to be flat rather than rear speaker cut off.

Like all theses things some people think that will be a major improvement for modest outlay..

You can pay more , whether you think it’s worth it obviously a personal view.

[cwunch]

I check the other posts, now I am more confused. But I know planning before buying/installing is very important in the cars, where you have to keep your original HU.

Most of the Bimmers, choose to install a tweeter directly. I have made this mistake (in terms of audiophile) on one of my F30 with base setup. I bought harman kardon tweeters and get them soldered on front door speaker wires. Yes, sound stage increased, no worries because tweeters had hpf on the wiring, but what I did was adding more high level sound, which was already produced by our existing door speakers. Then I ended up with lowering treble from the HU. (If there is a crossover like transistor or sth, which can low pass the existing door speakers, this system may work better.)

I am planning to use rear R/L from existing HU, therefore keeping rear pdc sounds.

1) Alpine PWD-X5 is a perfect solution, dsp-buetooth-subwoofer- 4*25rms amp built in… It may push the OE speakers wery well. Also, door speakers can be updated to a crossover system. Downside is, it is just 25w per channel.

2) If It is possible to get clean signals, by coding hi-fi, maybe I can use a powerful 4ch amp, change footwell bass drivers and door components. It can also be a 3way crossover system…

Reading more and more, searching… I wish I had option 677 on my Z.

[B21]

There are several options, from an audiophile perspective without a DSP multi channel amp you’re unlikely to be able to set it up ‘properly’ but many find the ‘tones’ very acceptable especially taking into account cost…

4 channel amp driving the woofers and mid range units leaving existing HU to drive rear channels is a low cost solution..

Coaxial 100mm units from the likes of Eton and AF yield good results on the doors without messing around with external tweeters..IMHO