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Thought I'd write up how to refresh all the old and busted suspension stuff at the back of the car.

This is 'my way' and I am sure others will say there are better ways, or easier routes etc... however if this helps someone then thats good!

Shopping list:

2x shock absorbers
2x top mounts
2x dust covers/bump stops
2x ARB bushes
2x drop links
Check springs if necessary...
2x M8 40mm bolts with washers and nyloc nuts 8.8 high tensile

Remove rear shelf in boot:

If you are heading here you may want to consider relocating your roof motor, as you are halfway there already?
- unclip 4x plastic clips, remove shelf. Be careful of the microswitch not to damage the armature.
- unbolt the two side hinges- usually a T30 and a 10 or 13mm bolt, with a plastic peg grommet- remove from car. This is to access the two tops of the rear suspension turrets.
- the turrets are covered with insulating and sound deadening so worth a dig around to see the two 13mm bolts either side that hold the top of the shock in place

Jack and support the rear of the car- safety first here obviously! Chock the front wheels and remove the rear wheels.

Remove the rear shocks: Support the bottom of the hub with a jack. Undo the 18mm main bolt (pictured) and the two 13mm bolts in the boot- shock will drop away from the car.
Remove the spring for inspection: with the shock off, take the jack away and push down on the wheel hub, the spring will free itself from the top and bottom spigots and you can remove- its easier with two people to do this but possible with one. Check the spring for cracking, rust and to check the condition of the top/bottom rubber pads.

With those out the way, you can now see the top of your drop links- 2x13mm bolts and they should free up. That frees up the ends of your anti roll bar but it still won't budge as the bushes are on. TOP TIP- at this point find a way of remembering/visualising how the ARB sits and is orientated. My method was to use a spray of yellow paint that reminded me of which way it sat.
Undo the bushes by getting 13mm sockets or spanners onto the holding bracket- see pic. These are bolted at the top and at the bottom have a metal tab sitting in a slot. Once undone, pop the metal bracket off and remove the bushes.
Now your ARB bar is free. It will drop with the drop links attached- now time to wrestle it! I've seen guides say drop the rear braces, exhaust and diff to get to the bar- however I find thats not necessary. The drop links come off with circular twisting and pressure, with the bar still under the car. Once off, prepare to pop the new ones on in reverse. Use washing up liquid and direct twisting force to get them fully slid on- note also get the orientation and angle right now to help refitting.

Now the new bushes- with the bar back in position, slide the bushes into place. Grease the inside of the metal brackets and pop them over the bush. Use a pry bar to get the bottom lip into the metal slot, then use your longer M8 bolts to secure- that longer bolt will save you an age of pain and frustration!

Get everything tightened back up.

Build the new shocks- simple enough, but if you strip the old ones down you can repeat the order when building new- getting the top bolt off can be troublesome but either use a cut away bolt and allen key, or vice/monkey grips to stop the shaft turning.

Reinstall is in reverse: springs reseat and back in, shock in and secure from top. 18mm bolt back in the base. I'll post up torques but needless to say RFT is essential!

I also use this time to inspect:

Rear brake lines
Subframe for corrosion
Petrol tank
Trailing arm bushes
Diff bushes

I also drop the aluminium cover off the rear diff and use the opportunity to change the diff oil.

Hope this helps- as always drop me a line if I can help!

Lower 18mm bolt 100nm
Upper shock bolts 24nm

When I did my rear drop links recently, I was a little concerned that they didn't push fully home to the shoulder on the ARB.
I am therefore pleased to see that your old ones didn't sit tight either, so I assume when under load they find their right place?

enuff_zed wrote: ↑Fri Aug 20, 2021 12:11 pm When I did my rear drop links recently, I was a little concerned that they didn't push fully home to the shoulder on the ARB.
I am therefore pleased to see that your old ones didn't sit tight either, so I assume when under load they find their right place?

All seems to have shaken out OK- no knocks or bangs!

Very useful write-up bigwinn. Thank you

Timely write up, just about to do the same thing to my car. Well done, this’ll be really helpful.

I've read about people adding rear shock top mount reinforcement plates, like these (I think) : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124437785781

When I come to do mine (probably next year), do you think it is worthwhile me adding these for a car with standard suspension that will only be used on the road i.e. not tracked ? Or would it be unnecessary overkill ?

I had read about the reinforcement plates and went on the theory they were cheap and I didn't want to dismantle everything, find any deformation or cracking and have to wait for them to turn up.
So I ordered a set of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173997902454 and stuck them on regardless.
Overkill? Maybe yes, but it doesn't hurt and if you intend to keep the car it can only help to spread the load a little.

PS. Do note that the price is for a pair. I initially made that mistake and almost ended up with 4.

Thanks enuff_zed.
As you say, it won't hurt to fit them and they are cheap. I'll do it.

+ 1 for the re- enforcement plates, cheap insurance.

Cheers gents-

I do usually fit them on the rear as the metal is quite thin there AND get abuse from the elements... so no harm

Fronts with the spreader plate I would only consider if there is mushrooming on the tower and (touch wood) havent seen that yet!!!

I fitted the rear reinforcement plates for the same reasons ( cheap and easy) however I didn’t fit them on the front. I was fitting bilstein B4s so as these are much like the original units I saw no need. They may be advisable is stiffer shocks and springs are being used.

bigwinn wrote: ↑Mon Aug 23, 2021 10:12 am I do usually fit them on the rear as the metal is quite thin there AND get abuse from the elements... so no harm

Fronts with the spreader plate I would only consider if there is mushrooming on the tower and (touch wood) havent seen that yet!!!

Where do you fit the rears? On top or underneath?

top side- in the boot

Thought so, interesting that the fronts are underneath!