Clutch options for the Z4M

[PDJ]

Just at the research and planning stage for what I believe could be next winters project, well I don’t want it to be a summer project.

So what are the options for a clutch, don’t want it ending up costing mega money but want to do the job once and to the best I can.

I had a single plate 4 pad sintered clutch in my Westfield and was warned that I would end up using my rear tyres as a clutch but this was fear mongering it was never like that,

Would like to loose some mass from the flywheel and clutch as it makes the engine more responsive, again all the tails of it will be horrible to drive never materialised in the Westfield.

So what have people fitted and had experience with.

Cost of parts (I will be fitting so no labour cost)

Going to start looking over at Demon Tweeks as a starter and that was a none starter as non of them fitted my car according to their web site

[mmm-five]

What outcome are you looking for?

If you want to keep OEM levels of performance & manners - go OEM clutch & flywheel (from OEM, not genuine from BMW of course)

If you want a little less engine braking and a slightly more free-revving engine - go single-mass flywheel and whatever clutch you feel will suit

Don't forget the Westfield won't have had to lug around or launch 1500kg of metal though.

My mate's Skyline with paddle clutch to handle his 'up to 600bhp' depending on fuel and map selected, is a bitch around town - but that's in a 1700KG GT-R33.

[PDJ]

What outcome are you looking for?


If you want a little less engine braking and a slightly more free-revving engine - go single-mass flywheel and whatever clutch you feel will suit

This is the option I am thinking would be the one so thinking about a lighter flywheel but other than the Turner Motorsport set up from the USA google is not being too helpful or I need to try harder

[mmm-five]

The US is probably the biggest market, so it's not surprising there are more options over there.

I've seen Turner Motorsport, UUC Motorworks (I think Simpson Motorsport in the UIK do these), JB Racing on google.

I have seen stories (Vanne?) of the Turner kit having incorrect pressure plate for the Z4M as it was the Z3M one. The correct one is the e46 M3 Sachs racing clutch & pressure plate (with the JB Racing flywheel).

[Ed Doe]

I think Driftworks do an e46 M3 lightened flywheel. You'd need to do a bit more research on that though I've no anecdotal or direct experience.

Personally I'd avoid anything other than OEM for the clutch kit itself unless you're going for more power

[beanie]

Whilst I’m in no rush to change my clutch, I’ll be quite tempted by a lighter flywheel when the time comes. As long as you go for a sprung clutch plate then I can’t see it being unbearable. Most reports of excessive chatter seem to be related to using the original solid clutch plate and whilst the sprung one won’t be as quiet as the dual mass setup, it should be fine. My biggest concern will be making sure it’s all balanced nicely rather than any noise.

As you’re doing the work yourself then I’d say go for it. Worst case you can sell the parts on and swap back to the dmf and you won’t have spent a fortune on wasted labor charges (even if it isn’t a particularly great job to have to repeat!)

[Haggisman]

If you wanted a steel lightened flywheel Burkhart Engineering in the states used to do one at 5.5 kegs compared with 12 kgs. Personally I preferred the steel one over the aluminium one with the steel ring for strength reasons and used with a sprung clutch plate worked well. I actually used a local specialist who lightened and balanced a flywheel for my M3.
Can be a bit more internal engine vibration, on the E36 M3 I secured the oil pump nut as a precaution as they can drop off on that engine. Not sure about the 3.2 in the M.
If the engine is staying standard power I would run with the standard or Sachs clutch..
Just my 2 cents worth.

[BMWZ4MC]

[PDJ]

Well winter is here well for road tax it is

So this weekend the car goes up on axle stands and start to remove the small bits then the big bits. To get at the clutch and start shopping for all the bits.

The flywheel and clutch I am going for is a TTV one

http://ttvracing.com/products/?manufact ... lve-guides

So while I have the flywheel off I intend to do the rear crank shaft oil seal
Replace the clutch arm, clutch arm and look at the pin it sits on, clutch slave cylinder.

Gear box mounts have been done

Anyone think of anything else that needs checking replacing while I have it in bits