There is a lot written about the likelihood of the GM5 module causing intermittent central door locking problems from the key fob so I will leave you to browse those, but none of the removal guides I have found are quite right for my 2003 pre-facelift model. Previous threads and the guides mostly suggest that the module is always on the back of the drop down panel under the glove box and so is easy to get at, hopefully this helps anybody else with the job, particularly on the pre-facelift which is slightly different.
This guide will also be good for face lift cars as well since the module is more easily accessible again behind the glove box.
Example guide https://www.bmwgm5.com/GM5_Z4_Removal.htm
On my pre-facelift car the linked instructions are mostly correct except that the module is on an alloy bracket right up behind the glove box/fuse panel and requires a stint upside down in the footwell with your head jammed on the floor to see what you are after. (It would be an advantage to be about 4'6" tall, skinny and have fingers like ET! )
Removing the complete glove box will not help and isn't necessary.
Once you have undone the two screws on the panel under the glovebox the panel drops down, you will need to unplug the lamp cable to get the panel out of the way.
Then it's best to first remove the two plastic nuts (10mm not 8mm as stated in the link) holding the white GM5 module bracket to the bulkhead, a small 10mm ratchet does the job
Then drop the module down on it's bracket and remove the 3 wiring block plugs. Unfortunately you can't really see how to unhitch them so it's worth closely noting the two pictures (sourced from the bmwgm5.com link) or you will get very frustrated!
Here's mine unbolted, dropped down and ready to unplug
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The all-black right block has an outer case that slides diagonally to the right right with the help of a flat screwdriver blade gently prising it sideways from the top (down the side of the wires) it's very sticky but just keep gently prising it right and it will come off.
On the other two plugs with white plastic securing clips you simply need to press down the central black tab on the top next to the white clip, then swing the clip open. All 3 plugs take seconds when you know how, or ages (upside down) when you don't, and cant see!
The modules are coded to the car so you can't simply drop one in from BMW or a scrapper, my module will be sent off for repair next week, hopefully this will sort the problem (about £35 instead of £400+ from BMW!)
Ducklakeview wrote: ↑Fri Dec 29, 2017 9:03 pm
It's normally the relays that pack up on these, only £11 for the pair on Ebay, and an easy job if you can use a soldering iron..
Hi Mike I'd seen this youtube link but is another mis-describing how to get the module out if you have a pre-facelift e85.
I'd agree replacing the relays is an option if you are reasonably competent and have a decent quality iron and solder removal kit, but there are a LOT of posts on the web where people have run in to problems extracting the pin solder cleanly. Even the how-to on a professionals site mentions frequent damage to tracks during removal which have to be bridged, not a biggie for a pro but hassle for a hobby'ist. I've done relays etc before but didn't fancy screwing-up a £400 module for the sake of saving an extra £20.
Ducklakeview wrote: ↑Fri Dec 29, 2017 9:03 pm
It's normally the relays that pack up on these, only £11 for the pair on Ebay, and an easy job if you can use a soldering iron..
Hi Mike I'd seen this youtube link but is another mis-describing how to get the module out if you have a pre-facelift e85.
I'd agree replacing the relays is an option if you are reasonably competent and have a decent quality iron and solder removal kit, but there are a LOT of posts on the web where people have run in to problems extracting the pin solder cleanly. Even the how-to on a professionals site mentions frequent damage to tracks during removal which have to be bridged, not a biggie for a pro but hassle for a hobby'ist. I've done relays etc before but didn't fancy screwing-up a £400 module for the sake of saving an extra £20.
From what I’ve read I’d agree. Send it off to be repaired. Multilayered board which is easy to screw up.
Have you started the car with the board removed like you are meant to be able to?
My module has only ever played up on one very very cold day when it wouldnt unlock a few years ago. Always been fine since. :dunno:
srhutch wrote: ↑Fri Dec 29, 2017 11:57 pm
.................. Have you started the car with the board removed like you are meant to be able to? ..............
The ignition is live with the battery re-connected and will run but lots of ancillary stuff is off-line with the module removed inc wipers, windows, roof and locking of course.
The module came back today and was easy to refit in reverse of the removal process, the locking now flies up and down so it looks like it's sorted the problem.
Having disconnected the battery the windows were not self-adjusting to the top when closing the doors but a quick reset cured this and everything is as it should be.
To reset the windows sit in car with key at pos 1 with window power available and doors shut,
lower the window fully and keep the button down for 5 seconds, immediately raise to the top, release the button and open the door. Then repeat with the other window. The windows should now drop slightly when opening the door and rise fully after shutting
Epic post, thanks so much! I've a pre-face lift model so your detailed instructions worked a treat for me! As a 5'2" female it was a struggle, bent over backwards, bum on the seat, feet on floor outside car and head in the footwell, oh my days!! Good job I'm bendy! I'm sending to QER too, so fingers crossed this is the solution as I've already replaced actuator and bowden cable.
tuco wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 8:33 pm
Is it best to do this when you don't need to use the car ?
I'd say so. The ignition is live with the battery re-connected and will run, but lots of ancillary stuff is off-line with the module removed including the wipers, windows, roof and locking of course.
)
I'm sending to QER too, so fingers crossed this is the solution as I've already replaced actuator and bowden cable. 