Project Spa - baton passed on. Keep reading

[enuff_zed]

Got someone needing an airbag module coded, so temporary work stop.
Next plan of action is take out the solenoids, double check they are clean and operate with 12v on them.
I have also read it is possible to juxtapose the plugs, but not sure I'll know if they are on wrongly now?

Then there is talk of filters on the side??

[j3nks79]

If there is a fault logged on that sensor it won’t advance or retard the cam.
I’d pull them out to firstly see if they are gummed up and clean them out.
Then get a battery and add 12v on it and see if it actuates.

[enuff_zed]

If there is a fault logged on that sensor it won’t advance or retard the cam.
I’d pull them out to firstly see if they are gummed up and clean them out.
Then get a battery and add 12v on it and see if it actuates.

Will do. Thanks.
But when I clear the fault it still doesn't move.

I also just read an article saying if the cage in the oil filter housing is damaged or missing it allows unfiltered oil through which could gum up even new solenoids pretty quickly.

[j3nks79]

When did it last have an oil change? Normally the filter collapses and it starves the oil going through. But I’d expect to see an oil pressure code for that maybe?!
Start with the clean and test on solenoids. Might also be worth pulling our the valve tronic motors. Re fitting so it can relearn its position.

[enuff_zed]

When did it last have an oil change? Normally the filter collapses and it starves the oil going through. But I’d expect to see an oil pressure code for that maybe?!
Start with the clean and test on solenoids. Might also be worth pulling our the valve tronic motors. Re fitting so it can relearn its position.

Two years ago, but not many miles.
I have done a valvetronic reset too.
Solenoids first.

[j3nks79]

Well oil change and solenoids out clean and test then would be a good place to start.

[enuff_zed]

Couple more minor things picked up.
The oil cooler to filter housing gasket is leaking - new one on order.
The boot rams are weak and the ball joints worn so they nearly fall off - to be replaced by a good secondhand pair from my box'o'bits.

[enuff_zed]

A little more progress this afternoon.
Removed the vanos solenoids just as a belt'n'braces check. Apologies to Janis if he feels I didn't trust him, I just wanted to start from the logical beginning.
As I should have known, both solenoids were shiny and new, no blockages and operated perfectly. so they are back in place.
Then I popped the top cover off!
As I half expected, the seal has failed around the eccentric cam sensor, oil everywhere, including down inside the plug. I sprayed it liberally with contact cleaner while I whipped out the coils. These all turned out to be nice and dry with no evidence of any oil seeping into the plug wells.

Started it up and no engine light, but the engine revved momentarily to 2k then straight back to a smooth idle.
Turned it off, left it ten minutes then started it again. Back to square one! Hunting for a few seconds, enough for the Engine light to come on, then settles into a perfect idle and performs flawlessly. But with that light on!
Code is, once again, '2A82 VANOS intake'.
I swapped the solenoids when I put them back in as well.

Any ideas you N52 experts?

I am thinking I am going to have to fit a new eccentric cam sensor anyway, as with that much oil around I cannot rule it out as the problem somehow.
Prices of new ones seem to vary a lot, any recommendations on a good quality one at a decent price?

Vanos solenoid.JPG (76.56 KiB) Viewed 300 times

ECS Plug 1.JPG (60.95 KiB) Viewed 300 times

ECS Seal.JPG (57.05 KiB) Viewed 300 times

ECS Plug.JPG (44.45 KiB) Viewed 300 times

[axelleveau]

I think it makes sense that a messed up eccentric shaft sensor would lead the ECU to get valve lift out of wack on start-up and then adjust to bring the idle back down. As you said, if it is full of oil it will probably fail eventually so despite the removal of valve cover being quite involved and probably having to be replacing the gasket at the same time, I would just go for it. I used a fairly cheap one from Autodoc, being my own car I don't mind doing it again if it fails, maybe not the same for you...

[enuff_zed]

I think it makes sense that a messed up eccentric shaft sensor would lead the ECU to get valve lift out of wack on start-up and then adjust to bring the idle back down. As you said, if it is full of oil it will probably fail eventually so despite the removal of valve cover being quite involved and probably having to be replacing the gasket at the same time, I would just go for it. I used a fairly cheap one from Autodoc, being my own car I don't mind doing it again if it fails, maybe not the same for you...

The price point will be guided byWayo11 as the whole point is to keep to a budget.
I was already planning to change the top cover gaskets as it's leaking quite a bit at the back lower corner. This would involve replacing the servo motor and cam sensor seals as well.
Did the same gasket on an E89 last week. Needs an extra pair of hands to wriggle it back in under the loom that crosses it, but apart from that not too bad.

[1536Z4]

new eccentric cam sensor anyway,

Looking at the amount of oil in there it will probably need changing plus the seal .

[enuff_zed]

Well the plan now is that the sensor will need changing regardless, so oil, filter, sensor and all top cover gaskets ordered.
There is also some interesting info on line regarding the check valves to the solenoids. These have fine filters which can block, meaning oil doesn’t get to the solenoids quite quick enough on start up.
These are screwed into the front right of the engine and pretty inaccessible from above or below.
I think I can get at them by removing the wheel and arch liner. Be great if it’s the problem but those other bits need doing regardless.

[1536Z4]

I think I can get at them by removing the wheel and arch liner.

Yes much easier if you go through wheel arch . There is a video on you tube by George Austers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQweif8dHFg&t=533s

[enuff_zed]

I think I can get at them by removing the wheel and arch liner.

Yes much easier if you go through wheel arch . There is a video on you tube by George Austers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQweif8dHFg&t=533s

Thank you

[x_rays]

These have fine filters which can block, meaning oil doesn’t get to the solenoids quite quick enough on start up.

Microfilter has been replaced with last oil change, according to invoice by Gilberts.
Janis.