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Barty wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 9:27 am Nice job!

The central sections up top simply pulls out (clips only). Then the two sections directly behind the driver are secured underneath the seat belt guides. Pry off the rear cover on the belt exit “bump”, remove the Torx and lift out.

Thanks, I'll try this.. I failed to notice that Torx you mentioned.

Spriteracer wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 10:12 am I would love to know how effective your void filling is when you finish it. I have been chasing a resonance ever since I have had my car and have put heavy foil backed bitumen type sound deadening on the boot floor, under it over the exhaust, and along the underside of the tunnel above the prop. Sadly none of this has made much difference. I was thinking of packing the hidden voids with rockwool acoustic insulation or similar - flexible, fireproof and doesn't rot if it gets wet... as used in floors and partitions in houses.

I took it for a motorway test drive yesterday..
I reckon I've reduced rear road rumble noise by 20%-30%.
The overall noise in the cabin is now equal between the front and rear, rather than everything bombarding from the boot area.
It'll be hard to tell what part made what difference. I basically went crazy, every part of exposed metal that I caould get to, had 6mm insulating foam stuck to it. For the voids, I insulated and then stuffed large amounts of bubble wrap into the corners.

I'll get under the black plastic behind the seats next.
Then move onto the doors and then possibly for floor.

Meds wrote: ↑Sun Oct 29, 2023 7:54 pm I've pretty much stuck the insulation to everywhere with a gap.

What insulation did you use ? I have done the boot floor the same as Spriteracer but it didnt make much difference . I may have a go at the rest of the panels if your results are positive .

1536Z4 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 11:10 am

Meds wrote: ↑Sun Oct 29, 2023 7:54 pm I've pretty much stuck the insulation to everywhere with a gap.

What insulation did you use ? I have done the boot floor the same as Spriteracer but it didnt make much difference . I may have a go at the rest of the panels if your results are positive .

6mm sticky rubbery foam. Cheap from Ebay. It's really squashy so can be compressed.
Your job looks tidy! I stayed away from the foil stuff as to my untrained logic it looks like it will reflect noise, rather than absord it.?

Did you do behind the plastic trims around the sides and rear? And also the voids behind your shoulders?

Meds - Thanks for the update. The foil backed stuff is 5mm bitumen and is meant to stop panels resonating rather than absorbing sound waves. It doesn't seem to have much effect on voids though which is why I thought I would try the Rockwool which should. 1536Z4 has gone further than I have as I just concentrated around the exhaust area which is where the booming seem to be generated. Some days it seems worse than others but that might just be my perception. I thought at one point the exhaust back box had been altered but I didn't see any sign of that when it was removed for other work. Car sounds fine from outside so I don't think it has broken internally.

Meds wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 11:42 am Did you do behind the plastic trims around the sides and rear? And also the voids behind your shoulders?

No just what you can see . I put some sticky felt tape around the plastic edges to stop the rattles . Don`t really want to add any more bitumen sheet as it is all added weight but may give the foam a go .

The cheap rubber foamy stuff I used weighs next to nothing, so I went crazy and stuck it everywhere I could get to.

It's definitely a product to absorb noise rather than dampening panel movement like the foil stuff does. I see that attached to large panels like roofs and doors.

When I start the cabin area, I'd like to tackle the rear bulkhead from the other side, and those two voids from behind the seats.

Mr Tidy wrote: ↑Sat Sep 30, 2023 10:41 pm

Meds wrote: ↑Sat Sep 30, 2023 10:13 pm A very mouldy washer bottle.

I've done that job twice on my 2nd E86 and an E46. Cleaned the washer filters with an old toothbrush and then only ever used one brand of screenwash. Never had that issue again. I think using different fluids contributes to the yuckiness!

Sorry for asking but where would the washer filters be located please? A job I'd like to do .

TOMGREEN413 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 10:47 pm Sorry for asking but where would the washer filters be located please? A job I'd like to do .

The filters are on the washer pumps and sit inside the fluid reservoir. You'll find them when you pull the pumps out of the reservoir - they are a push fit.

Delivery:


Bulbs:
I noticed one of my headlight bulbs was orange and a little dim, I have an MOT next month so it makes sense to sort it.
While I'm at it, I plan to remove the headlights and attempt to clean up the inside of the plastic lenses, they're a little foggy and bug me.
I understand this process involves a front bumper removal, headlight removal and then remove the projector glass. This should give just enough room to poke a cloth through, glued to a chop stick and give it a wipe over.
I'll also look to clean the projector glass.

M Sport (Suplex) springs:
Who knows what the car will feel like with Eiback Pro springs rear and Suplex springs front..
But it's an experiment I'm willing to try until I get some Suplex rear springs delivered.
If it feels fine after tracking and doesnt look odd, I might even keep it.
I need to raise the front end of this car, it rubs the front arch liner, scraps the flaps infront of the front wheels, and Mrs Meds is scared to drive it.
It's a right royal PITA and takes most of the enjoyment away when I'm clenching and grimacing behind the wheel.

Mr Tidy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 10:52 pm

TOMGREEN413 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2023 10:47 pm Sorry for asking but where would the washer filters be located please? A job I'd like to do .

The filters are on the washer pumps and sit inside the fluid reservoir. You'll find them when you pull the pumps out of the reservoir - they are a push fit.

Thank you

I needed to change a bulb, why stop there?
I had a misty drivers side headlight on the inside of the 'glass' and it was clear that the projector lens had gone foggy, too. The passenger side wasnt much better.

Bumper off:


Operating table:


After removing the ignitor and bulb, the projector needs to come out.
Getting the projector lens out was a faff. 4x nyloc nuts that need to be unscrewed, along with an absolute PITA connector for the main/dipped flap. A few of the bolts unscrewed fromthe housing due to the nyloc nuts having a little too much bite, this stumped me for a bit but working methodically, the issue was overcome.

A look inside once the projector glass was removed:


A load of different cloths with Isoclene electrical cleaner removed the foggy grime easily. Getting into the corners of the 'glass' was a pain but a chopstick to push the cloth around sorted most of it.. It's not perfect, but a huge difference. They're gleaming again.

You can clearly see how much grime was inside the headlight. The darker bit is where I wiped my finger accross the inside of the projector lens. I suspect from 15 years of dust and condensation, being heated then cooled repeatedly:


The result is a HUGE difference, along with 2 new bulbs its a large improvement not only in looks but increased light output.
The front of the car, along with both fog lights cleaned and ventilated with drill holes. It looks new.

Some little fiddly jobs completed recently.

MOT - Pass.
Fixed rattling door lock pin thingys.
Fixed rattling centre vent, how much of a PITA was it to remove that vent!!??!!!!
Replaced the cold blue LED in the roof light. With this guy: https://shop.bmw.co.uk/4328/genuine-12v ... 7-160-908/ What a great change this has made.
New wheels ordered.
OEM (Suplex) front springs are to be fitted next week. Gone will be the butt clenching and grimacing, yay!

The front springs were swapped back to OEM (Suplex 06248) height, last week.
I can now drive it without worry, and it's a huge relief.

I've gained 1.25" going back to OEM 'Sport' springs.
The stance is now level, but will change when I get around to doing the rear springs to match.

To bo honest though, the drives I've done so far, it's really hard to notice the difference in spring rates, so I might just leave it for a bit longer and see how it goes. At this point, I cannot notice any difference between front (Suplex) and rear (Eibach Pro).

Before and after:

Meds wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2023 2:49 pm I can now drive it without worry, and it's a huge relief.

.........and has Mrs Meds driven it yet Glad it has all worked out ok . Have your new wheels turned up yet ??