Meds 3.0si Coupe - Update: Reassembled.

[Meds]

I can sleep easy now.
Waterpump, thermostat and micky mouse flange replaced.
My mechanic said the turbine in the original pump was very loose and wobbly, it looks like I caught it in time. 2008, 77k.
(a previous 130i with the N52 had its go pop around 80k from memory, so I wasnt falling for that trick again)

Along with a oil and filter swap. The old oil filter was collapsed a little, the fins were squashed together. It was due an oil change anyway (3yrs but only 6k) so now was the right time.

EDIT: I forgot to add that the oil filter replacement solved an annoying high pitched whine from the engine bay that changed with engine revs. It sounded electrical, like the alternator. But once the collapsed oil filter was replaced, all was silent again. Nice!

[j3nks79]

Sounds like you got the jobs done just in time.
3 years without a service and 6000 miles. Filter starts restricting oil flow.
And some people think this is ok and to go even longer in years.
Always service my cars every 12 months. Even if it’s covered 2-3000 miles.

[enuff_zed]

A very mouldy washer bottle.

I've done that job twice on my 2nd E86 and an E46. Cleaned the washer filters with an old toothbrush and then only ever used one brand of screenwash. Never had that issue again. I think using different fluids contributes to the yuckiness!

Having a hot tub means I had a lot of chlorine granules. So I removed the washer bottle from the car, pretty simple to do if you pull the pumps out and leave them in situ; then I left the whole thing immersed in a bucket of water overnight with chlorine added. I removed the rubber seals from the pump holes first.
Came out like new the next morning. Just needed a good flush through with clean water to make sure no chlorine was left behind.
Final clean of the top with autoglym bumper gel and it’s like new.

[Meds]

Sounds like you got the jobs done just in time.
3 years without a service and 6000 miles. Filter starts restricting oil flow.
And some people think this is ok and to go even longer in years.
Always service my cars every 12 months. Even if it’s covered 2-3000 miles.

Yeah the previous owner collected the car just after it's last service. And only done 2k and year for 3 years.
So I did an oil change within 2 weeks of buying.

[j3nks79]

Sounds like you got the jobs done just in time.
3 years without a service and 6000 miles. Filter starts restricting oil flow.
And some people think this is ok and to go even longer in years.
Always service my cars every 12 months. Even if it’s covered 2-3000 miles.

Yeah the previous owner collected the car just after it's last service. And only done 2k and year for 3 years.
So I did an oil change within 2 weeks of buying.

Nice work so far. Nice to see its in good hands mate

[Meds]

The slightly concerning electrical type whine/whirring from the engine bay has gone, too.
That is a common symptom of a collapsed oil filter. What a result! It sounds MUCH better and quieter, I can now hear the lovely exhaust doing it's thing.

New badges and the original grills are back on. (Thanks to Sean for sending the grills over)

[Meds]

Today, I got inside the boot lid to check for any corrosion.
It's free from any signs of rust, clean as a whistle.
I did freak out when the endescope revealed a huge load of orange. But when I removed all the plastics to get a closer look using the larger holes in the inner skin, It's some sort of greasy oil/paint. I suspect some corrosion inhibitor from the build?
I pushed the scope into all the creases and found no issues.. Fantastic.

[Meds]

Headlight polish time:


These have come up really well after using the Quixx Headlight Restoration Kit.
The lens caps had a bad case of sunburn, rough to the touch and just looked a state.
30mins of wet sanding, polishing and sealing and they're good as new.

[Meds]

Next is to tackle a slightly damp carpet near the drivers door. This is less of a concern, as this week the roof is being installed onto the car port so the Z4 will be dry, soon enough.
Then onto some sound insulation in the doors (while I'm there I plan to install some mid speakers), wheel arches, and boot.
Then find some OEM wheels so I can remove the 203's.
Then onto removing the drivers rear wing to attend to a tiny bubble of rust. I've already had my local body shop look at it, they can remove the rust, seal, repaint and protect the wing for a small sum, so I'm glad it can be sorted with minimul fuss.

[Mr Tidy]

That's great news on the tailgate.

Some years back I remember a few forum members getting theirs repaired, and in a couple of cases replaced, under the 12 years corrosion warranty.

Good luck with the other jobs.

[Meds]

That's great news on the tailgate.

Some years back I remember a few forum members getting theirs repaired, and in a couple of cases replaced, under the 12 years corrosion warranty.

Good luck with the other jobs.

Yes, it was a huge relief.
I do admit, I get paranoid with issues that have a 1 in 100000 chance of occuring. I'm a worrier, and I dont stop until I know either way.
So getting inside the boot lid to find no problems was a happy moment.

I'm working out wheel options.
She's currently running 19x8J ET37 225/35 and rubs.
I'd love to go to some of the 18" (or 17") ET34's but I do not want a stretched tyre so 225 it has to be. I'll then be in the same situation I guess.
So it's OEM ET47.
Orrr......... I remove the Eibachs and go back to the stock ride height, that then opens up a load of wheel designs that I love the look of.

[Meds]

The front drivers fog light was pretending to be a fish tank so, I removed it to clean up and drill some holes in the underside, hopefully limiting the amount of condensation in the future. It's no surprise they fill up with water. Inside the bumper it's really wet and the fog lights sit below the headlight that has a large gap between it and the bumper.
Until I either find a replacement, paint them Montego Blue or find some blanking plates.



The car port is finsihed, now she can stay dry. Ready fo me to tackle 2 jobs.
Front bumper removal to get both headlights out for a proper refurb.
Rear drivers wing so deliver it to my local bodyshop for a tidy up.

[Meds]

Project sound insulation a go go!
Surprisingly, the rear strut towers have insulation, as does some of the rear carpets and the carpet along the rear bulkhead. The nearside void behind the passenger shoulder had a little but I've added loads more.
The drivers side void is empty and I suspect this causes a load of resonance.
I've pretty much stuck the insulation to everywhere with a gap.

So far:
Underneath the 2 cubby holes with nets.
All the rear plastics.
The voids behind your shoulders.
In the empy space above the rear wheels towards the cabin, up towards the rear windows.
The floor between the battery and bulkhead.
The rear bulkhead.
The underside of the battery cover.

Carpets out:


Underside of plastics, done:


Drivers side void, empy:


Left to do:
Inside the boot lid.
Stuff a load of bubble wrap or foam to fill up the voids behind your shoulders.
The plastics on top of the rear bulkhead. (anyone know how to get into these?)

[Barty]

Nice job!

The central sections up top simply pulls out (clips only). Then the two sections directly behind the driver are secured underneath the seat belt guides. Pry off the rear cover on the belt exit “bump”, remove the Torx and lift out.

[Spriteracer]

I would love to know how effective your void filling is when you finish it. I have been chasing a resonance ever since I have had my car and have put heavy foil backed bitumen type sound deadening on the boot floor, under it over the exhaust, and along the underside of the tunnel above the prop. Sadly none of this has made much difference. I was thinking of packing the hidden voids with rockwool acoustic insulation or similar - flexible, fireproof and doesn't rot if it gets wet... as used in floors and partitions in houses.