How to retrofit M Steering Wheel with Multi Function Control

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Sat Oct 21, 2017 5:19 pm

Hi Mike, reading the old thread, it says that cars built after 09/2003 did have the cable already on them although others with later cars say they needed the retro fit wires ??
So if I drop the cowl, do you know what colour wires I'm looking for and where did you get your cable from.
Cheers

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Sun Oct 22, 2017 2:40 pm

I fitted the wheel today and the buttons are not working so I have to get the retro fit cable

The new M wheel does feel nice though, much thicker

Must get me a set of M badges now

Old wheel

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And just look at the grains in my wood

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Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Sun Oct 22, 2017 4:35 pm

My car without the wiring, this is the connector on the rear of the slip ring..

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Donor car, the additional wires are in pins 9&10

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Mike

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Sun Oct 22, 2017 4:53 pm

That's a very helpful photo, was it easy to get to that plug out the ring mike

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Sun Oct 22, 2017 5:04 pm

Yup, a push on both sides releases it. I tapped into the loom here, wouldn't normally use scotchlocks, but it isn't critical wiring, and was a bit tight to get the soldering iron in without rising damage to other wires.

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Just gonna adjust the power steering motor while I'm down there now too.

Mike

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Sun Oct 22, 2017 5:07 pm

Thanks for the photos Mike

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:03 pm

Hi Mike, once you fitted the cables for the MFSW, did you have to code it or does it work OK with out the re code ?
Do the buttons light up at night ?

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:47 pm

No coding, and yes buttons light up.

Mike

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:15 pm

Cheers

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Wed Oct 25, 2017 6:16 pm

So had a look under the dash this evening and noticed this

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And this wire floating around

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looks like the plug comes out of the black and green thing, can anyone confirm before I plug it back in

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 25, 2017 6:24 pm

It's been removed to stop the annoying "bong" you get when you put the car into reverse. Not the parking sensor noise, just an annoying constant bong that actually makes the PDC noises harder to hear IMO. I think it's for the americans, who are prone to forget what direction the car is about to travel in..

Mike

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Wed Oct 25, 2017 6:37 pm

Cheers Mike

bluespit · Post by **bluespit** » Thu Dec 28, 2017 12:58 pm

All done today in 40 mins. That’s from parcel arriving to driving out of garage.

Fantastic write up

ADent · Post by **ADent** » Thu May 24, 2018 7:47 am

I did mine this weekend. I did have to add the wiring - 9/03 car. I found a used steering wheel with the buttons as the retrofit button kit was discontinued awhile ago. Bought the jumper wires with the connector pin on one end - see P/N above.

Some small tips:
Picture #3 in the first post is take from the floor looking up at the bottom on the steering wheel cowl cover, the metal thing in the photo is the steering wheel adjustment lever. Philips screw holds the cover on.

The green connector is underneath the steering wheel hub, kinda covered by a bit - it is easy to find once you remove the lower steering wheel cowl cover - but it is not so obvious as to stand out..

The screw on the instrument cluster is a torx T-20.

I used the Westinghouse Stitch to attach the wires - I don't have good long term luck with the Scotchloks and I am not good at soldering. It is basically a variation of the twist and tape with a tie wrap to secure the tape.

The 'glass' in my instrument cluster was dirty on the inside, so I took it apart. You undo 4 screws on the back (I used a T-9 driver, but I would guess they are actually T-8 screws), unclip the back, then unclip the front.

The pins on the headlight switch carrier are marked in tiny text like on the connectors themselves, so you can put blue and brown back in the right position. The connector attaches to the headlight switch with the pins facing the floor (for those of us that stopped in the middle of the job) - you can see the white lever in one of the photos above.

Torque on the 16mm steering wheel nut it 46 in-lb (aka 62 Nm).

The buttons light up and it works great. If you are pre-wired this is a very quick job.

Thunderous One · Post by **Thunderous One** » Sat Oct 27, 2018 10:12 am

Thankyou for this guide
It gives me ideas of what I’m capable of accomplishing, not just as a DIY, but also as what I can improve on with my own car

Z4-forum.com

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