This covers the drivers side action- the passenger side is much more easy as you don’t need to marry the lock barrel to the actuator
If you read TIS it says you need 2x special tools and you have to remove the window glass to change it- you don’t
Process I followed:
Remove door card, 1xt30 behind the plug on the inner door handle, open the door pocket flap to remove another cover for a second t30 and two t20s
Pop the door card off and hold close to the door. You can then remove the Bowden cable from the actuator and take the loom out of the door card (disconnecting all the lights etc)
You can now set the door card aside. The door membrane is much easier to remove than the e85 ones as it will peel off all the way around the door in one piece. Then unscrew the 3x 10mm bolts holding the speaker piece in place but don’t take the membrane off that. You can now set the membrane and speaker to one side in the car still wired in
Undo the 4x 10mm bolts that hold the H brace in place. Take that out the door.
You can now reach in the door and get to the actuator.
I then undid the 3 t30 bolts that hold the actuator in place. I left one in to hold it still while I then undid the inner Bowden cable. This just unclips in 2 places - if you look at your new actuator you’ll see where it sits
On the drivers door you need to extract the actuator from the armature that runs from the lock barrel- it’s a single arm. Take the final bolt out and move the actuator down into the door well, moving it away from the armature and out into the light
Refitting is the reverse- marry up the mechanism, insert the armature, bolt it in place, connect the Bowden cable and check it works ok: you can trip the mechanism using a screwdriver then ensure the outer door handle works.
Refitting in reverse. Have some Tec7 ready just in case the membrane needs a good seal
Stuart
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