Hall sensor removal question
- Thread starter john-e89
- Start date
RobbiZ4 said:
I suspected it was this sensor after some research, and at times I could get the roof to open by straightening the wire, but then I couldn’t do that anymore so got Carly on it, code came up with this as well so yes I’m as sure as I can be.
Of course I’m open to any suggestions etc, I’m by no means very knowledgeable on this roof, but I seem to have pinpointed it….i think.
RobbiZ4
Senior member
The broken wire can't be seen on your pic. On the other end of the brown&yellow wires, the (not visible) hall sensor is plugged into the ram. The two wires are casted in the housings of the hall sensors and can't be "repaired", if teared off.john-e89 said:
Carly isn't the best choice for this topic, as I had to learn earlier as well.john-e89 said:
What exact code did you get? [A688...A6A7]
In order to gain access to/remove this Hall sensor, the entire roof structure must be removed with some tricky readjustments. If at all possible I would avoid it just on suspicion!
RobbiZ4 said:The broken wire can't be seen on your pic. On the other end of the brown&yellow wires, the (not visible) hall sensor is plugged into the ram like on my following picture:john-e89 said:
The two wires wires are casted in the housings of the hall sensors and can't be "repaired", if teared off. That might look like on this picture of an 6-series F12 hall sensor:
Bild1.jpg
Carly isn't the best choice for this topic, as I had to learn earlier as well.john-e89 said:
What exact code did you get? [A688...A6A7]
In order to gain access to/remove this Hall sensor, the entire roof structure must be removed with some tricky readjustments. If at all possible I would avoid it just on suspicion!
Checked again today Robbi, I’m losing the plot…
Anyway Carly threw this up.Attachments
RobbiZ4
Senior member
Yeah, it's not the main pillar's hall sensor.
A696 is the hall sensor on the right hydraulic ram in the trunk as shown on my pic. It may be rusty inside and should be replaced by a new one.
Have a look at this thread
Prepare E88 hall sensors for E89 use
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=145813
A696 is the hall sensor on the right hydraulic ram in the trunk as shown on my pic. It may be rusty inside and should be replaced by a new one.
Have a look at this thread
Prepare E88 hall sensors for E89 usehttps://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=145813
Just check the connector if it's the short lead one. I my car it had pulled out slightly, there was no locking barb molded in for some reason.
I just pushed it fully home and superglued it, no problem since.
I was lucky that time it failed with roof up, boot lid open, so was easy to get to.
I just pushed it fully home and superglued it, no problem since.
I was lucky that time it failed with roof up, boot lid open, so was easy to get to.
Must be the attachment inside the ram, nothing wrong with the plug. Why does the clam shell start to open then stall…? And it also shuts itself into the final roof up position, it has the characteristics of low oil pressure but I’m getting a fault code as said, low oil wouldn’t throw a code but there must be some electrical signal getting to the ram for it to start to open, and then shut again when asked. Lost… :scratchhead:
My cars loose connector, go as far as boot opens, but then all stops. It would close after short pause.
This is right boot ram.
Here the plug is disconnected.
BMW drew a blue line on the left skt, and more blue on the right plug.
Plug is missing barb to lock it so as the kinematic box, i think it's called moves, it was slight pulling plug apart and roof would stop.
So i pushed it in as far as i could and super glued it.
A lot have been replacing this with the long lead version when error comes up.
Why BMW made this short lead is anyone's guess.
This is right boot ram.
Here the plug is disconnected.
BMW drew a blue line on the left skt, and more blue on the right plug.
Plug is missing barb to lock it so as the kinematic box, i think it's called moves, it was slight pulling plug apart and roof would stop.
So i pushed it in as far as i could and super glued it.
A lot have been replacing this with the long lead version when error comes up.
Why BMW made this short lead is anyone's guess.
Reamesy
Active member
Following code 00A698, I ordered new hall sensors from BMW. The E88 units at £15 each. Also bought new pins. Then measured the old cable, and cut to size. Popped out the old pins from the connector and all good.
However a word of warning for others. Take note of how the cable runs and where you cable tie. After my first test all was ok. Then went for a drive to find the rear hatch came up and continued to try moving up and nothing else.
Took it all to bits to find the rear most (shortest connection) had mangled itself as the piston moves back through the hinge bracket. Due to this the module could not tell the boot lid was fully open and tried to continue to open it.
A new connector later and secured correctly all sorted. In total 45 minute job with a cuppa
️ 
However a word of warning for others. Take note of how the cable runs and where you cable tie. After my first test all was ok. Then went for a drive to find the rear hatch came up and continued to try moving up and nothing else.
Took it all to bits to find the rear most (shortest connection) had mangled itself as the piston moves back through the hinge bracket. Due to this the module could not tell the boot lid was fully open and tried to continue to open it.
A new connector later and secured correctly all sorted. In total 45 minute job with a cuppa
️ 
B21
Lifer
Reamesy said:Following code 00A698, I ordered new hall sensors from BMW. The E88 units at £15 each. Also bought new pins. Then measured the old cable, and cut to size. Popped out the old pins from the connector and all good.
However a word of warning for others. Take note of how the cable runs and where you cable tie. After my first test all was ok. Then went for a drive to find the rear hatch came up and continued to try moving up and nothing else.
Took it all to bits to find the rear most (shortest connection) had mangled itself as the piston moves back through the hinge bracket. Due to this the module could not tell the boot lid was fully open and tried to continue to open it.
A new connector later and secured correctly all sorted. In total 45 minute job with a cuppa
Reamesy
Active member
So…not all good after all.
My car has been doing strange things. Randomly the door mirrors would not fold out on unlock. The four window switch would not work and I still get the following;
00A698 Rear-end module open during driving
00A69E Speed in soft top intermediate position higher than permitted
I only ever do 10 mph max leaving the estate and never found corners.
Now to through an idea out there. I have a SmartTop module fitted purchased of a forum member. On fitting I noticed none of the LEDs on the module were working but all functioned ok.
Configuration accepted and all seamed good.
I have removed it and been for a half hour test drive. No faults yet. I’m going to monitor it over the next few days. The fault usually triggers very quickly.
Been chasing my own tale for weeks on this. I will update my findings.
My car has been doing strange things. Randomly the door mirrors would not fold out on unlock. The four window switch would not work and I still get the following;
00A698 Rear-end module open during driving
00A69E Speed in soft top intermediate position higher than permitted
I only ever do 10 mph max leaving the estate and never found corners.
Now to through an idea out there. I have a SmartTop module fitted purchased of a forum member. On fitting I noticed none of the LEDs on the module were working but all functioned ok.
Configuration accepted and all seamed good.
I have removed it and been for a half hour test drive. No faults yet. I’m going to monitor it over the next few days. The fault usually triggers very quickly.
Been chasing my own tale for weeks on this. I will update my findings.