Z4M Roadster Diff removal difficulties...

[Wassup]

I still think you'll need a torx socket to access the bolt as it's recessed into the bush. Spanner will come handy once the bolt has been loosened.

Yeh I've got torx socket set. On my roadster there isn't enough room to get the socket and head of the ratchet in there.

So I modified the socket by cutting 10mm off front, 7mm off back and 7mm off ratchet square insert. Total size reduction 17mm, still won't bloody fit in there! Trying spanners.

Question to you guys:
- what type of paint did you use on diff and subframe?
- how on earth do you clean up the alloy part of the diff? Wire brushes won't fit in this nasty crevaces.

Whip it off, pop it in the post to me and I’ll vapour blast it if you want Jont, this is a cosworth diff I did the other day.

Exactly, I had the rear diff cover vapour blasted. Prior to that, I tried alu cleaner from autosmart and it was pointless due to the built up limescale in the cooling fins.

Well worth the £40 outlay

[Wassup]

I still think you'll need a torx socket to access the bolt as it's recessed into the bush. Spanner will come handy once the bolt has been loosened.

Yeh I've got torx socket set. On my roadster there isn't enough room to get the socket and head of the ratchet in there.

So I modified the socket by cutting 10mm off front, 7mm off back and 7mm off ratchet square insert. Total size reduction 17mm, still won't bloody fit in there! Trying spanners.

Question to you guys:
- what type of paint did you use on diff and subframe?
- how on earth do you clean up the alloy part of the diff? Wire brushes won't fit in this nasty crevaces.

I bought a snap on 3/8" breaker bar (F18LA model) which has a very compact head and with the halfords torx socket, I was able to get a socket on to break the bolt free. Then used the rachet spanner to remove the bolt.

From memory, there's a cheaper snap on f12la breaker bar and is more widely available.

[jontZ4M]

p it in the post to me and I’ll vapour blast it if you want Jont, this is a cosworth

Ooo this sounds interesting John.

Where are you based please?

If this is the case, I may as well wait until I remove the subframe & arms etc and get them all done at same time?

[jontZ4M]

I bought a snap on 3/8" breaker bar (F18LA model) which has a very compact head and with the halfords torx socket, I was able to get a socket on to break the bolt free. Then used the rachet spanner to remove the bolt.

From memory, there's a cheaper snap on f12la breaker bar and is more widely available.

Brill! I'll get this ordered now.

[john-e89]

p it in the post to me and I’ll vapour blast it if you want Jont, this is a cosworth

Ooo this sounds interesting John.

Where are you based please?

If this is the case, I may as well wait until I remove the subframe & arms etc and get them all done at same time?

I'm in Derbyshire Jont, I do soda, vapour and dry ice blasting, painting etc,. You'd just need to arrange a small pallet and strap everything to it, couriers are used to this sort of thing.

[jontZ4M]

I'm in Derbyshire Jont, I do soda, vapour and dry ice blasting, painting etc,. You'd just need to arrange a small pallet and strap everything to it, couriers are used to this sort of thing.

Yup, I was a Nissan parts breaker for 5 years and sent all kinds of weird shaped stuff all over the world. Will be a little while yet, but will give you a shout when ready. Thanks.

[jontZ4M]

Hey guys!

I got the diff off the car fine thanks to your advice.

I was on my own so had to be creative, but it went fine.

I am stuck again however.

I am trying to replace the front oil seal.

I marked and observed the 32mm pinion nut.

I also tried to test its current torque, but was not possible as it maxed out my draper 1/2" torque wrench.

Next job is to remove the 32mm front pinion nut. To do this I put a socket and 4ft bar on the nut. To stop the flange turning, I put two bolts into it and used a crowbar against these nuts to secure it. The problem is that the nut is so stiff that before it broke, the bolts in the flange bent.

I made sure to use generic bolts instead of the proper prop shaft bolts as a precaution.

At this point I don't see any way to break this bolt through torque alone...

I am charging my 24V impact gun and will try that tomorrow, but I doubt that will be powerful enough.

How did you guys do your pinion nuts please?

[john-e89]

Hey guys!

I got the diff off the car fine thanks to your advice.

I was on my own so had to be creative, but it went fine.

I am stuck again however.

I am trying to replace the front oil seal.

I marked and observed the 32mm pinion nut.

I also tried to test its current torque, but was not possible as it maxed out my draper 1/2" torque wrench.

Next job is to remove the 32mm front pinion nut. To do this I put a socket and 4ft bar on the nut. To stop the flange turning, I put two bolts into it and used a crowbar against these nuts to secure it. The problem is that the nut is so stiff that before it broke, the bolts in the flange bent.

I made sure to use generic bolts instead of the proper prop shaft bolts as a precaution.

At this point I don't see any way to break this bolt through torque alone...

I am charging my 24V impact gun and will try that tomorrow, but I doubt that will be powerful enough.

How did you guys do your pinion nuts please?

I used some armoured cable wire through the flange and through one of the diff mounting holes Jont, biggest issue is getting the diff somewhere where it's solid as if you just try to kneel on it etc, you'll just throw it around the floor. Try and wedge it somehow.

[jontZ4M]

Nut is off, whoop!

Turns out a £50 Ebay impact gun took it off in seconds without even bothering with any resistance.

BIG lesson learnt here: use the right bloody tool for the job