Change the battery first and check, I take it your confident enough to swap the locks out, easy enough to do although drivers side a bit of a fiddle with lock barrel being aligned.
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Windows not dropping for door open
- Zforbes
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Windows not dropping for door open
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Windows not dropping for door open
need to read your post again and look at what needs to be done and what to use to reseal the inner door cover. Fairly confident on taking bits apart it’s the putting back that can be trickyZforbes wrote: ↑Sun Nov 06, 2022 11:22 pmChange the battery first and check, I take it your confident enough to swap the locks out, easy enough to do although drivers side a bit of a fiddle with lock barrel being aligned.
- Zforbes
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Windows not dropping for door open
Door membrane should seal back up as is unless you've ripped it into ribbons. Taping if would be fine, this membrane should not directly be stopping moisture getting in the car, if it's getting wet you have other problems, any water getting in the door seal should naturally run down the door skin and drain out the bottom of the door.
Actuator is only 3 screws holding it in position, unclipping the inner handle Bowden cable is easy, the exterior handle one is best removed when the actuator is moved to the cavity opening in the door. The door button just unclips as does the power.
Drivers side the same but take note how the lock barrel fits, only a wiggle to get it back in through, from memory I think there is a screw holding the barrel on position in line with the lock above the catch. Think there is a grommet hiding it, only loosen though. This can be a bit fiddly but you'll know when it's correct.
Make notes and take pictures for points of reference like the route of the Bowden cable on the back of the door card
I wouldn't do any of that though without first fitting the new battery, registering and testing. It's only tiny fluctuations of voltage that can cause these issues and having 2 off actuators failing at the same time is beyond unlucky.
Hope that helps, anything else let me know
Actuator is only 3 screws holding it in position, unclipping the inner handle Bowden cable is easy, the exterior handle one is best removed when the actuator is moved to the cavity opening in the door. The door button just unclips as does the power.
Drivers side the same but take note how the lock barrel fits, only a wiggle to get it back in through, from memory I think there is a screw holding the barrel on position in line with the lock above the catch. Think there is a grommet hiding it, only loosen though. This can be a bit fiddly but you'll know when it's correct.
Make notes and take pictures for points of reference like the route of the Bowden cable on the back of the door card
I wouldn't do any of that though without first fitting the new battery, registering and testing. It's only tiny fluctuations of voltage that can cause these issues and having 2 off actuators failing at the same time is beyond unlucky.
Hope that helps, anything else let me know
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Windows not dropping for door open
Sorry for the delay, had some family emergencies so everything got parked.Zforbes wrote: ↑Tue Nov 08, 2022 7:48 pm Door membrane should seal back up as is unless you've ripped it into ribbons. Taping if would be fine, this membrane should not directly be stopping moisture getting in the car, if it's getting wet you have other problems, any water getting in the door seal should naturally run down the door skin and drain out the bottom of the door.
Actuator is only 3 screws holding it in position, unclipping the inner handle Bowden cable is easy, the exterior handle one is best removed when the actuator is moved to the cavity opening in the door. The door button just unclips as does the power.
Drivers side the same but take note how the lock barrel fits, only a wiggle to get it back in through, from memory I think there is a screw holding the barrel on position in line with the lock above the catch. Think there is a grommet hiding it, only loosen though. This can be a bit fiddly but you'll know when it's correct.
Make notes and take pictures for points of reference like the route of the Bowden cable on the back of the door card
I wouldn't do any of that though without first fitting the new battery, registering and testing. It's only tiny fluctuations of voltage that can cause these issues and having 2 off actuators failing at the same time is beyond unlucky.
Hope that helps, anything else let me know
so battery was the issue which now changed but that caused a whole load of other issues with engine no started, locked steering and locked handbrake.
got the steering lock fixed and now working on other faults since battery died
thanks for the tips, hopefully get this issue fixed and will keep the post updated
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Windows not dropping for door open
Yep - failing battery casues all kinds of madness across unrelated electronics in the car.
If you have more than 1 issue that seems like it needs intense diagnostics - always start with the battery.
These have a pretty short life, 5 years old batteries or older will always be a prime suspect if chasing electrical gremlins.
Consider it a consumable.
If you have more than 1 issue that seems like it needs intense diagnostics - always start with the battery.
These have a pretty short life, 5 years old batteries or older will always be a prime suspect if chasing electrical gremlins.
Consider it a consumable.
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SOLD 2010 e89 Z4 35is / space grey / coral red interior / all the extras
SOLD 2007 e85 Z4 3.0 si sport / midnight blue / champagne interior
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Windows not dropping for door open
Ok so passenger side lock actuator removed and refitted fiddly little thing
Onto the drivers side
Onto the drivers side
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- Zforbes
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Windows not dropping for door open
No need to remove handle just the lock barrel
It's held in with a screw hidden behind a rubber grommet in the door opening.
Take note how it fits together, a bit more fiddley than passenger side.
It's held in with a screw hidden behind a rubber grommet in the door opening.
Take note how it fits together, a bit more fiddley than passenger side.
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Windows not dropping for door open
Handle removed to get the barrel lock spline into door lock
Installed and working it windows still do not drop ah well onto the wire short and frm testing
- Zforbes
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Windows not dropping for door open
I thought the replacement battery sorted your issues?
Have you scanned the ECU's, in particular the FRM?
If the battery was the root cause of all the issues I would've expected a replacement and resetting via OBD would cure the locking issue? Maybe resetting winows also?
Have you scanned the ECU's, in particular the FRM?
If the battery was the root cause of all the issues I would've expected a replacement and resetting via OBD would cure the locking issue? Maybe resetting winows also?
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Windows not dropping for door open
Battery has been changed, had a variety of issues afterwards locked steering wheel.Zforbes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:36 am I thought the replacement battery sorted your issues?
Have you scanned the ECU's, in particular the FRM?
If the battery was the root cause of all the issues I would've expected a replacement and resetting via OBD would cure the locking issue? Maybe resetting winows also?
Currently have the 9cbc (not rechecked) since yesterday and now warnings in the aux
sensor.
All modules scanned with ista d and responding, need
To rescan and maybe reset frm again to see if any changes.
Thought the short circuit would be the door locks but nothing changed after installing new ones.
Looked at various window reset posts, which one do you use/recommend
- Zforbes
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Windows not dropping for door open
Trust you replaced battery with OEM spec AGM 70amp 770CCA?
The window motor has a hall sensor to detect positioning, either manually set using window buttons by holding down at bottom for 20 secs or so and repeat at top position.
Ista d will also have a reset function within the FRM scan I would suggest. I use INPA and that does it.
The window motor has a hall sensor to detect positioning, either manually set using window buttons by holding down at bottom for 20 secs or so and repeat at top position.
Ista d will also have a reset function within the FRM scan I would suggest. I use INPA and that does it.
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Windows not dropping for door open
Zforbes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 1:03 pm Trust you replaced battery with OEM spec AGM 70amp 770CCA?
The window motor has a hall sensor to detect positioning, either manually set using window buttons by holding down at bottom for 20 secs or so and repeat at top position.
Ista d will also have a reset function within the FRM scan I would suggest. I use INPA and that does it.
Yes OEM spec battery all good on that side and registered ok
I’ll let you know how I get on
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Windows not dropping for door open
No good still get errors and no different, junction box and frm check and wiring nextbirdy_z4 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 11:43 amZforbes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 1:03 pm Trust you replaced battery with OEM spec AGM 70amp 770CCA?
The window motor has a hall sensor to detect positioning, either manually set using window buttons by holding down at bottom for 20 secs or so and repeat at top position.
Ista d will also have a reset function within the FRM scan I would suggest. I use INPA and that does it.
Yes OEM spec battery all good on that side and registered ok
I’ll let you know how I get on
- Zforbes
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Windows not dropping for door open
Sounds like a nightmare.
Potentially the window motor could be your next thing to consider at a relatively low cost and a potential source for a short.
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