WANTED Bilstein B4 kit

[Gregory_tolson]

Yes, I drive mine all year round.

Average temps for me in the winter are below freezing and when it snows we get usually over a foot, and the snow usually sticks around most of the winter. these things dont do snow and ice well with being RWD lol

You've obviously not grown up with Ford Capris.
However, in my neck of the woods we hardly ever get snow, though we do get lots of rain that then freezes overnight.
Overall unless up in the North of the UK I don't we suffer with extreme weather too much.
But of course there is a little bit of common sense involved.
With an X-Drive 1-series on the drive it's a no-brainer if the weather is crap.

I have a Ford Fusion as my daily. Think they call it the mondeo for you. My wife has a Jeep Wrangler

[Rockhopper]

I only got stuck once last winter i think it was - i had to abandon it only about 500 yards from my house. I probably could have reversed it home but i didn't want to risk getting it totally stuck when i had the option to park it safely at the side of the road. I work from home mostly so i can live without the car a fair bit, I can also cycle and walk to work if I need to be in the office.

[kis]

What about 900 132? AUTODOC

OK, please ignore certain inputs.
Front end, re-use your rubber dust covers and order just the shorter bump stops Autodoc Febi Bilstein Item 103962).
Rear end, buy the kit including the covers. (Autodoc Febi Bilstein Item number 103828)

Thanks Martin

[SonnyA85]

I can't find the post now because i looked through about 30+ threads but one guy switched his out after 40K miles for B4's as they were knackered. He drove the car 30K miles before selling it to a mate who then also drove it for 30K miles before selling it on and they were still okay. So he reckons B4's do around 100K miles and that is normal for a shock absorber. OEM however are crap and the numerous reports of them on here failing after 40-60K but they have no idea how long they have been knackered for because the only way to know is to take them off the car so they could have been knackered for years.

So;

Some bloke on the internet (who you don’t know) replaced his knackered Sachs with B4’s drove it for 30k miles, then sold it to another bloke (who you don’t know) who then drove it for a further 30k miles, and he then sold it to a third bloke (who you don’t know) and the shocks where still fine….

Despite the fact that the third bloke didn’t remove the B4’s to test them? But with Sachs shocks you have to remove them to see if they’re knackered or not?

Is that about the size of it

Lets just skip over the numerous posts in that thread I linked and the professional mechanic within who worked on literally hundreds of them and said they are crap.

[True-Blue]

I can't find the post now because i looked through about 30+ threads but one guy switched his out after 40K miles for B4's as they were knackered. He drove the car 30K miles before selling it to a mate who then also drove it for 30K miles before selling it on and they were still okay. So he reckons B4's do around 100K miles and that is normal for a shock absorber. OEM however are crap and the numerous reports of them on here failing after 40-60K but they have no idea how long they have been knackered for because the only way to know is to take them off the car so they could have been knackered for years.

So;

Some bloke on the internet (who you don’t know) replaced his knackered Sachs with B4’s drove it for 30k miles, then sold it to another bloke (who you don’t know) who then drove it for a further 30k miles, and he then sold it to a third bloke (who you don’t know) and the shocks where still fine….

Despite the fact that the third bloke didn’t remove the B4’s to test them? But with Sachs shocks you have to remove them to see if they’re knackered or not?

Is that about the size of it

Lets just skip over the numerous posts in that thread I linked and the professional mechanic within who worked on literally hundreds of them and said they are crap.

Let’s just skip over the fact that we’re talking about shocks on cars that are 15+ years old, even though they’ve may have done limited mileage

Let’s skip over the fact that you are basically making unsubstantiated claims that the O.E. Sachs shocks will be toast after 30k miles and B4’s with do twice as many miles ‘easy’

Let’s take the word of ‘your professional mechanic’ that Sachs make shocks out of chocolate and all the manufacturers that fit them to their brand new vehicles are fitting sub standard parts.

You contradict yourself in this thread and many others. If B4’s had been fitted at the factory, they would also be knackered after 15 years

[Zedebee]

Let’s face it, there aren’t many Z4 owners (there are some, granted) who will replace their shocks and then drive another 40-60k miles, so what does it matter?

It then comes down to cost, ride quality, aesthetics and the fact that non-OEM suspension is a declarable mod for insurance purposes.

[True-Blue]

Let’s face it, there aren’t many Z4 owners (there are some, granted) who will replace their shocks and then drive another 40-60k miles, so what does it matter?

It then comes down to cost, ride quality, aesthetics and the fact that non-OEM suspension is a declarable mod for insurance purposes.

All excellent, valid points

[Dr. Zed]

I was not aware this ad had created such a discussion, nor did I realise this was still alive. Apologies for those that have had an input. It is very much appreciated.

Currently I'm opting for B4's with Msport springs (lesjofor). I'll be replacing the bump stops too with the M sport one which is shorter. Everything else will be placed back in (bar the bolts etc that need to be replaced when doing this sort of job).

[enuff_zed]

I was not aware this ad had created such a discussion, nor did I realise this was still alive. Apologies for those that have had an input. It is very much appreciated.

Currently I'm opting for B4's with Msport springs (lesjofor). I'll be replacing the bump stops too with the M sport one which is shorter. Everything else will be placed back in (bar the bolts etc that need to be replaced when doing this sort of job).

New top mounts surely?

[SonnyA85]

I was not aware this ad had created such a discussion, nor did I realise this was still alive. Apologies for those that have had an input. It is very much appreciated.

Currently I'm opting for B4's with Msport springs (lesjofor). I'll be replacing the bump stops too with the M sport one which is shorter. Everything else will be placed back in (bar the bolts etc that need to be replaced when doing this sort of job).

You can also get thicker spring mounts so the car isn't lowered too much and hopefully gives a slightly better ride.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203168043551

these are only 2.5mm thicker than the originals so 5mm difference overall. That way your car will only be lowered by 10mm from the standard suspension rather than 15mm. I done this as I went for a higher profile rear tyre and didn't want to rub over potholes or speed bumps.

[Dr. Zed]

enuff_zed,
Yes, of course. Top mounts is why I realise the shocks were shot. My nearside mount was cracking which prompted me to fix it.

[Dr. Zed]

SonnyA85,
These are for the rears, no?

[SonnyA85]

SonnyA85,
These are for the rears, no?

yeah but they do ones for the front too. if you want the part number let me know and i'll do a search. you can then raise it slightly at the front if you want by 5mm

[Dr. Zed]

SonnyA85,
Will do, thanks mate.