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intermittent roof problems
- Thread starter thee89
- Start date
Yes I see. But so far I'm not sure what's up with the rusty and/or cracked HS.flybobbie said:
The range of failure modes on these HS is varied: from short bongs with interrupted moves up to main columns crashing into a closed trunk lid. I suspect that the current change occurs too early or too late due to a disturbed magnetic field. One of the last mysteries of this roof.
This is the end of a hydraulic hose, no valve.wetpee said:RobbiZ4 said:
Do you mean the brass valve on the pump or this piece on the ram?
The brass valves are on top of the hydraulic pump. Touch it very, very carefully to not destroy the pump!
On the right, you can see a black hall sensor put into this hydraulic ram.
Picture of the front sensor and it's slot on the ram:
I'm guessing by your explanation that this sensor is definitely toast. Do the newer sensors have an updated design that prevents this kind of failure? Is there a precaution we can take in an attempt to extend it's life?
Thanks,
Evan J
I'm guessing by your explanation that this sensor is definitely toast. Do the newer sensors have an updated design that prevents this kind of failure? Is there a precaution we can take in an attempt to extend it's life?
Thanks,
Evan J
Yes, this one is firing wrong signals. Get it replaced by a cheaper one from the E88 convertible. Lot's of infos in this forum. No precautions possible.wetpee said:Picture of the front sensor and it's slot on the ram:
I'm guessing by your explanation that this sensor is definitely toast.
What about the 2nd HS on the same ram? Don't forget to renew the zip tie around the rear HS with the red wire.
I'm pretty sure that there is/was a massive water ingress in the boot before.Smokss said:
This error only occurs, if the temp sensor (NTC) got destroyed by water. It's sitting inside of the hydraulic pumps motor.
Please provide a picture from the BOTTOM of the pumps motor!
Check the two violet wires on the 4-pole motor plug. Should be sth. around 50k ohms at 25°C.
WBALM53599E161269
RobbiZ4 said:
The condition of the second sensor was definitely not as obvious as the first. it looks fine but there was rust in it's slot on the ram so we're opting to replace it. Zip ties are plentiful here and we took tons of pictures so we should be good there. Luckily we were able to get two e88 sensors ordered from our local dealer ~$20USD each. Picked em up yesterday. Relays came yesterday as well.
A couple questions before we get started:
1) Does it matter which way we solder up the new sensor? the e88 sensors have the brown wires placed opposite that of the e89 sensors and my friend was saying brown is always ground (negative?) for BMW. I have tons of soldering experience but I'm no electrical engineer.
2) This heat shrink on the sensor with the longer wires is quite thick and looks shinier than the polyplefin stuff I get. Any idea what material it is? From McMaster Carr I see Silicone Rubber which is described as "Continuous-Flex Abrasion Resistant".
Thanks,
Evan J
I have an issue on my E89 which started last Sunday. I fitted a roof module recently but hadn’t got it “coded” but found it would open/close the roof on a long press of the key. Now it will open all the way but not raise the windows as it did, when it comes to closing it raises the boot, stacks the 2 roof sections and locks the front to the screen frame and closes the boot down but will not lower the rear part of the roof.
Is it possible this could be a “Salmon” relay fault? The car is a 2011 and I have no idea if they have ever been changed. I’m going to see if my Foxwell NT 350 can find any faults though I’m not hopeful.
Thanks for any help.
Tony.
Is it possible this could be a “Salmon” relay fault? The car is a 2011 and I have no idea if they have ever been changed. I’m going to see if my Foxwell NT 350 can find any faults though I’m not hopeful.
Thanks for any help.
Tony.
Okay! so we replaced the two hall sensors on the ram, and got full control of the hard top back. while moving it, i heard a whining noise that wasn’t there and we noticed a spray of hydraulic fluid, and so being unable to tell where exactly it was spraying from, we tightened the brass valve which was only hand tight and moved it again, the whining had stopped but we heard a hissing noice and noticed bubbling towards the bottom hoses. we then looked at the fluid level and the resovoir was basically empty, but it didn’t seem as though we lost that much fluid. we left rags underneath to soak up the fluid and took photos of the bottom of the pump while doing so but don’t recall if the corrosion we saw was present before we started messing with the pump earlier on.
is the condition of this something to worry about
is the condition of this something to worry about
Yes, of course. If the hydraulic pump is lying in a wet foam, it get's rusty on the bottom as well as INSIDE of the motor on the right!thee89 said:
And more important: Hydraulic fluid is NEVER consumed by the system. If it is missing, a hydraulic line is broken.
oke:Fair comment re the Salmon relays, it may have been known about for years but I’ve only had the car for less than one year!
I did find a code stored stated as “Soft top module CTM” A694 Microswitch “cowl panel reached” and some other historic codes. I cleared all and roadtested and read codes again. None returned as yet and roof works ok.
Tony.
I did find a code stored stated as “Soft top module CTM” A694 Microswitch “cowl panel reached” and some other historic codes. I cleared all and roadtested and read codes again. None returned as yet and roof works ok.
Tony.