Dan's New Z4M Coupe!

[Mr Tidy]

I love an ///MC in silver grey Mr Tidy

Thanks - I am also smitten by them!

[Vanne]

nice car, looks wonderful, enjoy the hell out of it

[DSGRNMCM]

As others have said, I looked for 18 CSL reps for a while in the correct offsets for the M and didn’t find any apart from Arc Apex, which are not cheap but a great wheel.
Better off looking for a different style if you want to stay 18” or get Arc wheels. Failing that go 19”, apart from more expensive rubber I’ve not had any issues plus you can get the right offsets with no fettling off the bat.

Hi I did see a link to the ET differences, A UK firm selling BBS etc, mentioned using 10mm spacers all round. I feel like BBS and spacers would be most cost effective that a £1200 set of alloys from the states.

I wonder how much BMW alloys are?

[Mr Tidy]

I wonder how much BMW alloys are?

Here's a link to a thread about the price of genuine CSLs:- viewtopic.php?f=49&t=112541&p=1623544&h ... s#p1623544

[Ed Doe]

Car looks lovely, definitely agree with those saying the 19" csls look an awful lot better than 18". If you're going 18" personally I'd look at Apex ARC-8 or EC-7 (I have the latter, I reckon they look amazing but then I am slightly biased heh)

however...... Lower cam shells?! Now I've heard it all

Do you mean replacement big end bearings? Or valve shims which would be done as part of either of the inspection type services?

Big end bearings budget approx £1k. For checking and shimming valve clearances as part of inspection 1 probably around 400quid although I can't specifically recall what I last paid.


Edit: pic 1 below is 18" arc 8s, and pic 2 is my car on 18" ex-7s

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[DSGRNMCM]

Hi Ed Doe,

Lower Cam shells, that is from my internetting. So its the big end bearings it is.

Ref teh alloys, they look pretty smart. From all the questions I have asked sellers, or garages. About 50% say spacers others do not.

Would I be right saying, that as long as the ET number is the same then no rubbing will occur?

[Mr Tidy]

Yes they are big end shells to most of us, but crank rod bearing shells in BMW speak!

Standard wheels on the M were Style 224s which are 8Jx18 ET42 fronts and 9Jx18 ET30 rears.

If the width and ET are the same they'll fit fine, but if you go wider or have a different ET that changes everything!

Generally speaking the same width with a slightly lower number ET will work OK. For example an 8Jx18 ET 32 on the front will sit 10mm further out, just like having a 10mm spacer on the OE size wheel and ought to work OK. But things change if the car doesn't have OE suspension, which is an added complication!

I'd wait until you get the car and see exactly what your starting point is first. And once you have you'll be more interested in putting some miles on it.

[Ed Doe]

On the wheel size side of life - to give you a bit of info on mine - my alloy sizes are18x8.5 ET35 on the front and 18x10 ET25 on the rear.

Tyres are 245/40/18 front and 265/40/18 rear.

The rear arches appear to have been slightly rolled on the inner lip to accommodate the tyres, and there is evidence of the arch liners having worn. That being said my car is a track car so has been subject to a lot more cornering loads and therefore damper compression than on the road. Also the rear tyres are quite high profile for the width!

To be quite honest I'd echo what others have said - get the car, and see what physically works. This website is a good one for checking wheel and tyre combos against standard so you can cross check your physical measurements: https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Good luck and enjoy the car!

[DSGRNMCM]

Evening All,

Just picked up the car! Spent all evening going through the Service History and putting it in order.

Only did a 30 min drive in London back to the flat. But tomorrow evening back to Devon!

So far upcoming issues / tasks are:

Key Fobs need batteries
Wheel and Car badges need renewing
INS 1 due in 1000m
Key Fob needs a badge

[buzyg]

Evening All,

Just picked up the car! Spent all evening going through the Service History and putting it in order.

Only did a 30 min drive in London back to the flat. But tomorrow evening back to Devon!

So far upcoming issues / tasks are:

Key Fobs need batteries
Wheel and Car badges need renewing
INS 1 due in 1000m
Key Fob needs a badge

Looking cracking Dan. Safe drive home . Hope to see it in the metal in the not too distant future.

[DSGRNMCM]

[/quote]
Looking cracking Dan. Safe drive home . Hope to see it in the metal in the not too distant future.
[/quote]

Hi BuzyG,

Got home at 2230 last night. Completely forgot the pleasure / difference of driving a manual!

[DSGRNMCM]

So did the London to Plymouth drive yesterday. Quite an experience, a few diversions, took it steady as i'm new to the car and it was late. Got about 260m with a 1/4 left in. Not hanging round, but sensible speeds.

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1st / 2nd Gear[/b

On the test drive, I had no issues with these gears. Yesterday it was an absolute mare pulling away, or changing from 2nd. Sometimes smooth, other times felt like the engine was falling out. Think I'll do some investigation in to removing the CDV.

Things so far:

Boot equipment, what should be on top of this:

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Re fitting of bumper: The garage removed the bumper to replace the brake disc shield, but the drivers side is on the wonk, how easy is it to re fit?

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Head light washer: the passenger side one, has not fully returned, do we have a guide on here?

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Drivers door card, has 1cm rip, so I'll get on Ebay to source one.

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Bonnet latch, this is a bit stiff. Can I just soak it n WD40 or is it a common issue?

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Cabin ICE equipment:

So I have the DVD for Nav, and I assume a CD player as well as the Head unit one? Can anything be done to add a HDD or USB reader?

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So I use a spread sheet to run my cars (Geeky I know) and have one for questions and mods, so i don't forget, does anyone else do this?

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[AndyBeech]

BMW key fob icon - Loads on ebay for cheap, search BMW key sticker 11mm, not sure BMW sell them

Key fob battery - Rechargeable so probably just needs charging and will work. They charge when in the ignition so if you can leave it in the ignition safely overnight or for a period of time or you can try the putting the key on a toothbrush charger trick, they charge on the same principle as the ignition does, have a google for this.

CDV delete - loads of threads on it, there isn't a part to replace if you dont want, just join the pipes up without the valve, job done. DIY: http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_cdv.shtml For an M3 but same principle.

Battery equipment: It would be for the mobility kit if you got a puncture, will be out of date now anyway (the goo that is rather than the equipment). I've left mine there for 'originality' and brought a slime puncture repair kit like many others https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-CRK0305- ... 24&sr=8-15
Anything like this will be fine in a puncture situation

LEDs - Ebay again, search Z4 LED kit and scan at your leisure. Most listed there will be fine

Sound quality - I'd guess that it's interference from the charger being picked up that's causing you issues. Check your cable and connection otherwise look at a better method such as a Bluetooth dongle, Intravee etc.

Bonnet latch - Yes common, WD40 will be fine or lithium grease, anything along those lines.

Can't help with the other stuff but sure someone else will be along. Regarding the bumper I imagine its been off at some point and the brackets that hold them on are probably broken and need replacing. Not cheap for a bit of plastic but I've read they can be a bugger to get off without breaking.

[Jembo]

Lovely looking ride Certainly a few things to keep you busy

[MrPT]

So I use a spread sheet to run my cars (Geeky I know) and have one for questions and mods, so i don't forget, does anyone else do this?

Yup. Costs, mods, servicing, depreciation, mileage, alignments settings, suspension settings, weight loss.

Worth checking your engine mount bolts if you're giving everything a once-over.