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best place for Kw V3's?
- RedUn
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best place for Kw V3's?
The rogue engineering rear bushes are oem like, zero noise, no compliance issues at all, just a bitch to fit!
From memory Byron is running APs, I'm running 380mm stoptechs, either is more than enough for the zed
From memory Byron is running APs, I'm running 380mm stoptechs, either is more than enough for the zed
Last edited by RedUn on Mon Jun 07, 2021 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
IMOLA Z4///MR
- Beedub
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best place for Kw V3's?
Thanks man .. I'll reply properly tomorrow I'm still at work ...Mos6689 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:46 pm Hey beedub,
Come across your posts loads when I was researching, on here & Zpost. I’ve seen you say a few times that the V3’s are just way too soft. Even if you dialled them up for maximum stiffness did this not make them firm enough for you? Is your driving just road or a lot of track as well? I went for the V3’s because I’ve got no plans to track it.
Any recommendations for my setup with V3’s in regards to mounts & bushings? Going for the limiter kit and not PU RTABs. Only had one experience with PU bushings and I hated them. Far too stiff. But other people do swear by them.
What’s the big brake kit you & redun have fitted? Callipers look great! Love the Aeros with that vinyl!
Brakes are AP racing front and rear much needed in this car.
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best place for Kw V3's?
Beedub wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 11:09 pmThanks man .. I'll reply properly tomorrow I'm still at work ...Mos6689 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:46 pm Hey beedub,
Come across your posts loads when I was researching, on here & Zpost. I’ve seen you say a few times that the V3’s are just way too soft. Even if you dialled them up for maximum stiffness did this not make them firm enough for you? Is your driving just road or a lot of track as well? I went for the V3’s because I’ve got no plans to track it.
Any recommendations for my setup with V3’s in regards to mounts & bushings? Going for the limiter kit and not PU RTABs. Only had one experience with PU bushings and I hated them. Far too stiff. But other people do swear by them.
What’s the big brake kit you & redun have fitted? Callipers look great! Love the Aeros with that vinyl!
Brakes are AP racing front and rear much needed in this car.
Anyone had any experience of these? https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension- ... g-Kit.html
So my aim is to tighten the car up but I don’t want to comprise NVH, it’s just about tolerable as is. RTABs seem to be a main area to tighten the car up but I’m not sure whether to go with the bimmerworld bearing kit or meyle bushes with limiters?
Then there’s drop links, ARB bushes & the ARBs themselves. Not sure how far to go given it’s a car I use everyday? I just want it to feel planted. Don’t want to sh#t myself everytime I go beyond 100.
Going to do a front end bush refresh at RBM in a couple of weeks. Pretty much set on meyle bushes on all of these. Mistake? Better options?
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best place for Kw V3's?
A bit more Imola V3 action for you - transformed my car and there is zero clunking or banging and they smooth the road out beautifully.
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- AndyBeech
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best place for Kw V3's?
If your not tracking not sure why you’d bother with ARB’s, expensive RTAB bushings etc. Just keep standard stuff, don’t forget most of your bushes will be well worn by now so just refreshing them with standard will make a big difference.Mos6689 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 2:04 amBeedub wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 11:09 pmThanks man .. I'll reply properly tomorrow I'm still at work ...Mos6689 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:46 pm Hey beedub,
Come across your posts loads when I was researching, on here & Zpost. I’ve seen you say a few times that the V3’s are just way too soft. Even if you dialled them up for maximum stiffness did this not make them firm enough for you? Is your driving just road or a lot of track as well? I went for the V3’s because I’ve got no plans to track it.
Any recommendations for my setup with V3’s in regards to mounts & bushings? Going for the limiter kit and not PU RTABs. Only had one experience with PU bushings and I hated them. Far too stiff. But other people do swear by them.
What’s the big brake kit you & redun have fitted? Callipers look great! Love the Aeros with that vinyl!
Brakes are AP racing front and rear much needed in this car.
Anyone had any experience of these? https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension- ... g-Kit.html
So my aim is to tighten the car up but I don’t want to comprise NVH, it’s just about tolerable as is. RTABs seem to be a main area to tighten the car up but I’m not sure whether to go with the bimmerworld bearing kit or meyle bushes with limiters?
Then there’s drop links, ARB bushes & the ARBs themselves. Not sure how far to go given it’s a car I use everyday? I just want it to feel planted. Don’t want to sh#t myself everytime I go beyond 100.
Going to do a front end bush refresh at RBM in a couple of weeks. Pretty much set on meyle bushes on all of these. Mistake? Better options?
Standard brakes I would say are also fine for roads with the right fluid and pad. Unless you want the BBK look of course! Again, track a different matter but if your not doing that it sounds like you going OTT and sacrificing comfort, up to you of course.
TLDR, I would personally stick with OEM stuff for road.
Where are you finding these roads you can regularly go above 100?!
Z4MR - Gruppe M, Bilstein PSS10, CSL's + 18" CSL reps with semi's, RTAB Limiters, Powerflex’d, PF Camber Arms, K-Sport BBK / RSL-29, GC Camber Plates, Strut Brace, Exhaust valves, custom brake cooling, complete underside refresh!
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best place for Kw V3's?
I do a lot of motorway miles, which is where I go above a hundred. In respect to the ARB, that’s why I’m asking how much of a difference do they make? Never had any experience.
Doing a full bush refresh all around so hopefully that tightens everything up sufficiently but time will tell.
Doing a full bush refresh all around so hopefully that tightens everything up sufficiently but time will tell.
- AndyBeech
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best place for Kw V3's?
Well my advice, do the standard stuff and then go from there. Whatever you want to achieve might be achieved by just doing that. If not you can look at other parts but on the road without increasing NVH you’ll want to keep relatively standard. ‘Tightening up’ with anything other than standard parts will almost certainly make small differences to NVH depending how sensitive you are, compliance vs stiffness is always going to be a compromise. A full refresh is a good starting point. Staying away from Poly is a good choice also if you don’t want extra NVH!Mos6689 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 4:56 pm I do a lot of motorway miles, which is where I go above a hundred. In respect to the ARB, that’s why I’m asking how much of a difference do they make? Never had any experience.
Doing a full bush refresh all around so hopefully that tightens everything up sufficiently but time will tell.
You won’t need anything special in particular bombing around on a motorway in any case, apart from a new license maybe
Z4MR - Gruppe M, Bilstein PSS10, CSL's + 18" CSL reps with semi's, RTAB Limiters, Powerflex’d, PF Camber Arms, K-Sport BBK / RSL-29, GC Camber Plates, Strut Brace, Exhaust valves, custom brake cooling, complete underside refresh!
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best place for Kw V3's?
Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!
I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.
Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.
I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.
Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.
- AndyBeech
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best place for Kw V3's?
Blimey…are you sure you don’t want to track days?! It’s a lot safer in that respect!Mos6689 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 6:04 pm Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!
I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.
Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.
Like I say, start with what your doing and go from there. The KW’s will be an improvement regardless.
FWIW I was doing 130+ on the straight at Bedford Autodrome yesterday and had no confidence issues with the car at all. Planted in all situations even with my limited skillset at the moment! Extremely capable when set up correctly and mine isn’t *that* far away from OEM. NVH is worse than standard though.
Z4MR - Gruppe M, Bilstein PSS10, CSL's + 18" CSL reps with semi's, RTAB Limiters, Powerflex’d, PF Camber Arms, K-Sport BBK / RSL-29, GC Camber Plates, Strut Brace, Exhaust valves, custom brake cooling, complete underside refresh!
- RedUn
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best place for Kw V3's?
Love it!Simon 3.2M wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 4:07 pm A bit more Imola V3 action for you - transformed my car and there is zero clunking or banging and they smooth the road out beautifully.
1B7D72EA-2FF6-415C-86EB-90868BDD78F3.jpeg
IMOLA Z4///MR
- RedUn
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best place for Kw V3's?
I replaced my rtabs at similar mileage, they were like new still.Mos6689 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 6:04 pm Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!
I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.
Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a bush refresh unless you know or have a good idea they are worn which I can't imagine at that mileage unless it's done a load of track work.
You need to realise just how bad the oem suspension is, genuinely it's blumin awful, it's not you, it's the suspension hence the lack of confidence.
KWs will fix the ride, the feel, the compliance and give you loads more confidence in the car. Personally I'd do the rtabs at the same time as it makes a genuine difference to rear end feel and it's a cheap mod. What you don't want to do is do the KWs, pay for a geo, then wish you had done the rtabs and have to it all again.
Arbs, for road use, you won't need them it, it just adds more to the mix. Again it's very personal preference. You can add them later though with minimal interference to a fast road geo.
It's tough though, everyone always has an opinion I guess that's why you ask
If your close ill take you for a spin in mine
IMOLA Z4///MR
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best place for Kw V3's?
Are you based in Surrey Redun?RedUn wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:25 pmI replaced my rtabs at similar mileage, they were like new still.Mos6689 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 6:04 pm Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!
I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.
Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a bush refresh unless you know or have a good idea they are worn which I can't imagine at that mileage unless it's done a load of track work.
You need to realise just how bad the oem suspension is, genuinely it's blumin awful, it's not you, it's the suspension hence the lack of confidence.
KWs will fix the ride, the feel, the compliance and give you loads more confidence in the car. Personally I'd do the rtabs at the same time as it makes a genuine difference to rear end feel and it's a cheap mod. What you don't want to do is do the KWs, pay for a geo, then wish you had done the rtabs and have to it all again.
Arbs, for road use, you won't need them it, it just adds more to the mix. Again it's very personal preference. You can add them later though with minimal interference to a fast road geo.
It's tough though, everyone always has an opinion I guess that's why you ask
If your close ill take you for a spin in mine
Yea I’m learning the questions I’m asking are too vague. Everyone differs in preference & tolerance. Best bet is just changing it bit by bit until I get it handling how I want. Don’t think the brakes are something I’ll do given how much they cost but the callipers sit beautifully on Redun’s!!
In regards to bushes, I definitely need to change the front lower rear control arm bushes, as I’m getting play through the steering above 65. (Done balancing & checked geo). If they’ve worn that far then I’d guess the rest won’t be far off. Don’t think it’s been tracked I think it is just literally down to age & rubber deteriorating. Car was a collectors before me. So was garaged for 6 years. Serviced properly but only saw 2000 miles in those 6 years, so my guess is the suspension components have never been looked at because of the lack of use.
Got an 8 week wait now for the KW’s, so in the meantime I’m going to get the bush refresh done because that play is driving me nuts. If it messes with the geo, I’ll get it done at sms, as it’s only £25 an axle. Then once the KW’s are fitted I’ll get a proper 4 wheel alignment with the CSL specs, which is going to cost £100 at a specialist in Camberley.
As always thanks for the input guys, helped me decide on the KW’s & RTAB limiters, which will hopefully be worth every penny!
- RedUn
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best place for Kw V3's?
I'm not far off North London, so trip round the 25.Mos6689 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 12:14 amAre you based in Surrey Redun?RedUn wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 10:25 pmI replaced my rtabs at similar mileage, they were like new still.Mos6689 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 6:04 pm Yea had a new one 3 times already totting up when I was younger!
I’m not just spending money for motorway miles & straight line speed. I want to be able to push the car when the feeling takes & have confidence in it. Loads of great B roads down here in Surrey. Stock suspension does not give me any confidence at all. Maybe just the nature of the car but surely it can be improved on without sacrificing comfort & increasing NVH.
Maybe KW’s & a bush refresh will be enough. Car has only done 22k though so don’t know how much play the bushes are going to have. Visually there’s no cracks or splits on ones I can see without putting it on a ramp. Then again rubber does deteriorate & the car is 15 years old.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a bush refresh unless you know or have a good idea they are worn which I can't imagine at that mileage unless it's done a load of track work.
You need to realise just how bad the oem suspension is, genuinely it's blumin awful, it's not you, it's the suspension hence the lack of confidence.
KWs will fix the ride, the feel, the compliance and give you loads more confidence in the car. Personally I'd do the rtabs at the same time as it makes a genuine difference to rear end feel and it's a cheap mod. What you don't want to do is do the KWs, pay for a geo, then wish you had done the rtabs and have to it all again.
Arbs, for road use, you won't need them it, it just adds more to the mix. Again it's very personal preference. You can add them later though with minimal interference to a fast road geo.
It's tough though, everyone always has an opinion I guess that's why you ask
If your close ill take you for a spin in mine
Yea I’m learning the questions I’m asking are too vague. Everyone differs in preference & tolerance. Best bet is just changing it bit by bit until I get it handling how I want. Don’t think the brakes are something I’ll do given how much they cost but the callipers sit beautifully on Redun’s!!
In regards to bushes, I definitely need to change the front lower rear control arm bushes, as I’m getting play through the steering above 65. (Done balancing & checked geo). If they’ve worn that far then I’d guess the rest won’t be far off. Don’t think it’s been tracked I think it is just literally down to age & rubber deteriorating. Car was a collectors before me. So was garaged for 6 years. Serviced properly but only saw 2000 miles in those 6 years, so my guess is the suspension components have never been looked at because of the lack of use.
Got an 8 week wait now for the KW’s, so in the meantime I’m going to get the bush refresh done because that play is driving me nuts. If it messes with the geo, I’ll get it done at sms, as it’s only £25 an axle. Then once the KW’s are fitted I’ll get a proper 4 wheel alignment with the CSL specs, which is going to cost £100 at a specialist in Camberley.
As always thanks for the input guys, helped me decide on the KW’s & RTAB limiters, which will hopefully be worth every penny!
Brakes are lovely yes but not cheap, if it's a keep though my logic was to just upgrade things are the wear out man maths maybe but it's fun!
Ahh not great on the bushes, sounds sensible then, that'll help definitely! When you go for your cheap geo pull the camber pins and get some more camber on the front, it'll help for the minute until the KWs turn up!
When you go for the proper geo get the car corner weighted, it makes a big difference and you might as well get the most out of the adjustables.
I'll be quiet now and stop spending your money
IMOLA Z4///MR
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best place for Kw V3's?
Thread revival!
So got the KW’s through the post after about 4 weeks. Was quoted 8-10 so was a lovely surprise when they turned up.
Did a bush refresh in as many places as I could with RBM & it was definitely worth it. Installed UUC transmissions mounts with enforcer cups & Vibratechnic engine mounts & RTAB limiters at the same time. Car feels a lot tighter now than it did before.
Had the KW’s fitted last week and went for RE upside down rear mounts, as per your suggestion Redun. I’m now trying to fiddle with the setup to get it where I want it. The out of the box settings are definitely an improvement on the stock suspension & it feels slightly more comfortable & not as harsh & unforgiving on rubbish roads.
I have a question for people with KW’s that I’m struggling with. So I’m trying to adjust the ride height now because it’s rubbing slightly on the rear. Now in the installation manual there’s this page in regards to adjusting ride height (pictures below).
Where it refers to “A” the remaining thread. Is this the minimum and maximum ride height? So for example minimum adjustment range on front axle says 40mm. Does this mean measurement “A” should be 40mm at a minimum for maximum ride height?
So got the KW’s through the post after about 4 weeks. Was quoted 8-10 so was a lovely surprise when they turned up.
Did a bush refresh in as many places as I could with RBM & it was definitely worth it. Installed UUC transmissions mounts with enforcer cups & Vibratechnic engine mounts & RTAB limiters at the same time. Car feels a lot tighter now than it did before.
Had the KW’s fitted last week and went for RE upside down rear mounts, as per your suggestion Redun. I’m now trying to fiddle with the setup to get it where I want it. The out of the box settings are definitely an improvement on the stock suspension & it feels slightly more comfortable & not as harsh & unforgiving on rubbish roads.
I have a question for people with KW’s that I’m struggling with. So I’m trying to adjust the ride height now because it’s rubbing slightly on the rear. Now in the installation manual there’s this page in regards to adjusting ride height (pictures below).
Where it refers to “A” the remaining thread. Is this the minimum and maximum ride height? So for example minimum adjustment range on front axle says 40mm. Does this mean measurement “A” should be 40mm at a minimum for maximum ride height?
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best place for Kw V3's?
I should add Julian at balance spent a while talking me through adjustments. He said not to focus on measurement “B” (centre of hub to wheel arch) as this will mean going from left to right non stop because changing one side will affect the opposite & you’ll end up with different thread measurements which will result in the handling being way off. He said the thread measurements matching are the most important thing. Most of the time it’s best to just live with the slight difference in height from left to right as it’s never more than a few mm.
This makes sense so before I go adjusting again I want to know the answer to the question above. Where is my minimum & maximum? Is it the whole thread range or is there a minimum amount of thread I should leave? The rears say minimum is 0mm. So does this mean use all the thread available? And bring the adjustable collar all the way to the top for maximum ride height?
This makes sense so before I go adjusting again I want to know the answer to the question above. Where is my minimum & maximum? Is it the whole thread range or is there a minimum amount of thread I should leave? The rears say minimum is 0mm. So does this mean use all the thread available? And bring the adjustable collar all the way to the top for maximum ride height?