Z4M Wishbone Replacement

[Kern47]

Hi,

Had a problem start a month or so ago with brake judder. Just taken it down to the local Indy who told me there seems to be excessive play in the forward control arm Bush and suggested replacing the whole thing.

I'm considering having a crack at it myself, but could anyone point me in the direction of the parts I'd need? Obviously the new wishbone, but then any other bushes etc. that may be required separately? I know polybushes arent an option, but cant work out which bits would come with the new control arm, and which bits I'd need to buy separately.

Any pointers on where to buy the 'kit' would be great.

Cheers in advance

[Papa_Zee]

You're probably better off getting discounts from the few dealers that get mentioned here. At least you would be getting original parts. Not sure I'd want to be using oem for those important bits.

I'm having these same replaced soon as advised by Munich Legends when I book it in again in a few weeks. Will list the bits they mentioned when I check at home later.

[Kern47]

You're probably better off getting discounts from the few dealers that get mentioned here. At least you would be getting original parts. Not sure I'd want to be using oem for those important bits.

I'm having these same replaced soon as advised by Munich Legends when I book it in again in a few weeks. Will list the bits they mentioned when I check at home later.

Ah okay cheers, that would be helpful a shopping list would be a good start lol.

[Kern47]

You're probably better off getting discounts from the few dealers that get mentioned here. At least you would be getting original parts. Not sure I'd want to be using oem for those important bits.

I'm having these same replaced soon as advised by Munich Legends when I book it in again in a few weeks. Will list the bits they mentioned when I check at home later.

Did you manage to have a look at the parts you're getting for that job?

[Papa_Zee]

Lol yes i did. I couldn’t find my way back here

Lucky you came by again
Here goes:
Play in Driver & Passenger Inner/Outer Track Tods £529
Some play in both rear suspension antiroll bar drip links £140
4 wheel alignment £144

And that was it... yours might not need quite the same amount of work but i plan to do them in the coming month or so in addition to new tyres which im keeping at 18s on the 224s.

[MrPT]

Something like these are uprated versions of the factory parts. They include the two new ball joints you need and they are replaceable, unlike the stock items.

You’ll also need the lollipop bushes themselves, of course (again Meyle HD are great), plus perhaps a picklefork or balljoint puller if you go the DIY route and find your existing ones can’t be broken free.

To be honest, whole wishbone replacement should be pretty cost effective to pay a garage to do. They’ll know what to do if there are any issues, whereas you run the risk of spending hours just trying to remove a single seized-on bush or balljoint.

[R60BBA]

I believe you only need the wishbones and lollipop bushes. Might be worth checking the track rods and steering coupler while your down there however.

I can’t talk for Z4M but on the E46 M3, the OEM was originally Lemforder and then BMW changed to TRW around 2004.

I have heard some cases where original Genuine BMW wishbones have outlasted replaced OEM wishbones replacements. But I have also heard cases of where original Genuine BMW wishbones have outlasted replaced Genuine BMW parts.

However never heard of any Genuine BMW or OEM replacements lasting less than 5 years.

From what I understand the OEM replacements are exactly the same as Genuine BMW parts, apart from the BMW badge which has been machined off (which you can actually see).

My advice would be to weigh up the cost of Genuine BMW wishbones vs OEM, taking into consideration how long you seek to keep the car for / your desire to keep the car as original as possible.

This is something I am currently considering and will be changing this year.

[frazell]

Just a word of warning on the Meyle HD lower arms. The knuckle that surrounds the ball joint at the hub carrier is a fair amount bigger than the OEM (lemforder?) unit. That's what puts the 'HD' in 'heavy duty'.

If you're going for a BBK in the future you might run into trouble with the discs fouling the knuckle.

Just had this issue with fitting Ksport 355mm discs to the front where the floating disc hat was too deep (Or knuckle too big). Had to have the lower arms changed before I could proceed which was a complete pain!

Won't be a problem for 95% of people with a standard set up but keep it in mind if you're doing something in the future brakes wise.

[Jembo]

During my front suspension refurb with car on 60k, garage said still no play whatsoever in the lollypops so PM me if u need the offset Z4M bushes - 90% of invoiced price plus a fiver postage.

U will need to wait as am away for 2 more weeks

[Kern47]

Cheers for the responses.
My only experience of this sort of DIY was changing the lollipop bush on my old E46 330, which I remember winding off with a G clamp. But I'm always conscious of the fact that I could end up stranded on my drive with something stuck/broken on these sorts of jobs

I'll get in touch with my Indy and see what sort of labour cost they'll be charging. I thought I could probably get them to get the parts in for me as well if I do decide to go DIY.

Thanks again

[MrPT]

Just a word of warning on the Meyle HD lower arms. The knuckle that surrounds the ball joint at the hub carrier is a fair amount bigger than the OEM (lemforder?) unit. That's what puts the 'HD' in 'heavy duty'.

If you're going for a BBK in the future you might run into trouble with the discs fouling the knuckle.

Just had this issue with fitting Ksport 355mm discs to the front where the floating disc hat was too deep (Or knuckle too big). Had the have the lower arms changed before I could proceed which was a complete pain!

Won't be a problem for 95% of people with a standard set up but keep it in mind if you're doing something in the future brakes wise.

Never even thought about that. I assume the K-sport discs come with their own dust shields then, or do you have to go without them altogether? Here's the back of mine, which have uprated calipers and Meyle HD control arms, but stock discs:

IMG_5678.jpg (178.45 KiB) Viewed 1470 times

You're right - not a lot of clearance!

[frazell]

Never even thought about that. I assume the K-sport discs come with their own dust shields then, or do you have to go without them altogether? Here's the back of mine, which have uprated calipers and Meyle HD control arms, but stock discs:

No you "modify" the existing shield...... by removing most of it!

See gargybloke's post when he fitted his, you can see the extent of the shield removal and how the Meyle units cause you a problem.

viewtopic.php?t=37667

[Kern47]

Just an update for anyone elses future reference...

Spoken to my local Indy (not a specialist, but trusted well enough). Being in the process of buying a house, I got a quote for just the passenger side to be replaced for £135. Which is probably reasonable enough for me to go with that, rather than running into difficulties on my drive.

I might even be tempted to get them both done at the same time as its MOT.

Cheers for the responses anyway

[Darkangelv2]

Just an update for anyone elses future reference...

Spoken to my local Indy (not a specialist, but trusted well enough). Being in the process of buying a house, I got a quote for just the passenger side to be replaced for £135. Which is probably reasonable enough for me to go with that, rather than running into difficulties on my drive.

I might even be tempted to get them both done at the same time as its MOT.

Cheers for the responses anyway

Did that include the parts (a full Meyle HD arm)?

If so, great price!

[Kern47]

I would assume so, I've not checked what specific parts will be used. But yeah they're always very reasonable