running temp on track..

Beedub · Post by **Beedub** » Sun Feb 10, 2019 12:02 am

Vanne wrote: ↑Sat Feb 09, 2019 3:43 am
Beedub wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 7:11 pm i use a additional Large setrab oil cooler. It get warm but manages heat VERY well.
Thanks Byron, yeah I've got an extra 13 row oil cooler in my right fang.. might see if I need another in the left fang...

my one is huge. like 3/4 of the water rad size. Will need to dig out the model number, also uses all aeroquip fittings.

Vanne · Post by **Vanne** » Sun Feb 10, 2019 1:52 pm

Thx mate ,would like to see it

Vanne · Post by **Vanne** » Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:15 pm

ph001 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 09, 2019 10:09 pm Removing the heater matrix gives you even less cooling capacity. At least if you are pushing hard you can whack the heaters on full and open the windows. Makes quite a big difference to engine cooling. Water wetter will also give you no benefit over a water/antifreeze mix.

Cheers mate, I'll leave it in place

R60BBA · Post by **R60BBA** » Sun Feb 17, 2019 2:10 pm

mmm-five wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 3:17 pm I've had mine at 130ºc+ on a summer day (30ºc+) at the 'Ring, and the orange temp light came on.

I did a full cooing system refresh soon after that and haven't seen it above 120ºc anywhere since.

What exactly did you do to your cooling system?

Eg. did you refresh with OE parts or aftermarket?

mmm-five · Post by **mmm-five** » Sun Feb 17, 2019 3:34 pm

R60BBA wrote: ↑Sun Feb 17, 2019 2:10 pm
mmm-five wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 3:17 pm I've had mine at 130ºc+ on a summer day (30ºc+) at the 'Ring, and the orange temp light came on.

I did a full cooing system refresh soon after that and haven't seen it above 120ºc anywhere since.
What exactly did you do to your cooling system?

Eg. did you refresh with OE parts or aftermarket?

It was mainly to replace the thermostat and check out how damaged the rad & oil cooler were from stone chips, etc.

Just used OE parts, as the previous system had lasted 80,000 miles and I thought I might as well put all new parts on whilst the system was drained.

We replaced the water pump even though it looked fine as it’d already been paid for and it just meant everything was on the same schedule (have got the old one with my spares somewhere.

R60BBA · Post by **R60BBA** » Sun Feb 17, 2019 4:35 pm

mmm-five wrote: ↑Sun Feb 17, 2019 3:34 pm
R60BBA wrote: ↑Sun Feb 17, 2019 2:10 pm
mmm-five wrote: ↑Fri Feb 08, 2019 3:17 pm I've had mine at 130ºc+ on a summer day (30ºc+) at the 'Ring, and the orange temp light came on.

I did a full cooing system refresh soon after that and haven't seen it above 120ºc anywhere since.
What exactly did you do to your cooling system?

Eg. did you refresh with OE parts or aftermarket?
It was mainly to replace the thermostat and check out how damaged the rad & oil cooler were from stone chips, etc.

Just used OE parts, as the previous system had lasted 80,000 miles and I thought I might as well put all new parts on whilst the system was drained.

We replaced the water pump even though it looked fine as it’d already been paid for and it just meant everything was on the same schedule (have got the old one with my spares somewhere.

Nice one!

Only reason I asked as I reckon that I’ll still be the owner when my M will have 160,000+ miles on it.

Vanne · Post by **Vanne** » Sat Feb 23, 2019 3:48 pm

Yup, I hear ya, heater core is staying in.

M6 oil cooler in enroute.

Z4-forum.com

Z4-forum.com