Engine mounts

[Simon 3.2M]

Whilst the subject of poly bushes for the lollipops is being discussed, what are people's thoughts on engine mounts - OEM or uprated?

[Mike.]

I'd check they actually need doing before committing, I had mine checked during Inspection 2 based on recommendation on this forum. I was also in an open wallet mentality towards the car during this and my independent knew this... great opportunity to say they need doing and charge me but they said they were fine, original, 2007 car with 55k miles.

[tomscott]

The vibratech mounts make the car feel more planted but I seem to remember members who have installed them have reported creaking. Beedub has them I think so worth asking him

On the case of doing them. These are IMO just as important if not more important than the bearings as these are age related items just as they are mileage. They are rubber and I think its the passenger side that is right next to the heat shield making that one perish faster, they compress and perish. In some cases they completely separate. At the age of these cars 10-12 years old I would say regardless of mileage they should be on the list.

There are signs. They can leak but there is a shield so unlikely you will see any fluid on the driveway. When the mounts have compressed there is more vibration from the engine and the engine itself can move more than it should under torque if the mounts have separated. This is why having the engine bolts changed is a good idea too as these were a fault anyway but they can get loose and under more strain can also snap. I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

At the end of the day they are hard to get to and you cant see them unless you remove the undertray, they could well be perished or separated but while the engine is off all weight is on them so you wouldn't know if they were separated. You would also only be able to compare when they come out.

Again if your having the bearings done it makes sense to have them do at the same time for piece of mind it shouldn't cost a lot. Engine movement can cause big bills as its connected to the trans etc and the vibration and torque movement will flow to everything connected.

Failure and separation


Compression


Complete failure

[Simon 3.2M]

The vibratech mounts make the car feel more planted but I seem to remember members who have installed them have reported creaking. Beedub has them I think so worth asking him

On the case of doing them. These are IMO just as important if not more important than the bearings as these are age related items just as they are mileage. They are rubber and I think its the passenger side that is right next to the heat shield making that one perish faster, they compress and perish. In some cases they completely separate. At the age of these cars 10-12 years old I would say regardless of mileage they should be on the list.

There are signs. They can leak but there is a shield so unlikely you will see any fluid on the driveway. When the mounts have compressed there is more vibration from the engine and the engine itself can move more than it should under torque if the mounts have separated. This is why having the engine bolts changed is a good idea too as these were a fault anyway but they can get loose and under more strain can also snap. I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

At the end of the day they are hard to get to and you cant see them unless you remove the undertray, they could well be perished or separated but while the engine is off all weight is on them so you wouldn't know if they were separated. You would also only be able to compare when they come out.

Again if your having the bearings done it makes sense to have them do at the same time for piece of mind it shouldn't cost a lot. Engine movement can cause big bills as its connected to the trans etc and the vibration and torque movement will flow to everything connected.

Failure and separation


Compression


Complete failure

I've had the bearings done Tom and the Indy said they were fine and didn't recommend uprated mounts. They don't look difficult to change - just remove the under tray and aluminium support and you can access the bolts through the wishbone.

[mmm-five]

I have the Vibratechnic road set on mine, and can’t say I’ve noticed any additional NVH over standard.

They look better than OE ones too...

[TomK]

I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

Nope, not me.
I changed mine at about 60k for the vt road mounts. Original bolts hadn't backed out at all and the mounts themselves looked absolutely fine.
I can't say I noticed much difference really, although I would say the 2nd gear denial syndrome was definitely improved, so worth it for that alone imo, especially as it takes provably 10 mins to do on a lift.

[Mikey_Boy]

^^^ +1 for what TomK says above - I've got VT mounts on mine - no increase in NVH at all but definitely a tighter feel up front and a real improvement to 2nd gear denial...

[Bottom]

Another happy Vibratech user here, one of the most cost effective mods I've ever done on a car.

[tomscott]

I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

Nope, not me.
I changed mine at about 60k for the vt road mounts. Original bolts hadn't backed out at all and the mounts themselves looked absolutely fine.
I can't say I noticed much difference really, although I would say the 2nd gear denial syndrome was definitely improved, so worth it for that alone imo, especially as it takes provably 10 mins to do on a lift.

Ah ok must be someone else!

Anyway all knowledge is good knowledge.

[crustyclown777]

How many mounts are needed? 2?

[Mangozac]

How many mounts are needed? 2?

Correct

[Jembo]

I have VT mounts, they’re well hidden once fitted though can’t comment on benefits as fitted by last owner along with the rear top mounts.

One of those small but cumulative mods that every day make our toys that bit better.

[MrPT]

I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

Nope, not me.
I changed mine at about 60k for the vt road mounts. Original bolts hadn't backed out at all and the mounts themselves looked absolutely fine.
I can't say I noticed much difference really, although I would say the 2nd gear denial syndrome was definitely improved, so worth it for that alone imo, especially as it takes provably 10 mins to do on a lift.

And with no lift available? Could you safely put the car on axle stands and use a jack plus some kid of load spreader (aka a plank) to take the weight of the engine while you replace the mounts? Is there enough clearance to torque the bolts properly?

Lots of questions, sorry. It’s just not something I’d considered I could do myself before.

[john-e89]

I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

Nope, not me.
I changed mine at about 60k for the vt road mounts. Original bolts hadn't backed out at all and the mounts themselves looked absolutely fine.
I can't say I noticed much difference really, although I would say the 2nd gear denial syndrome was definitely improved, so worth it for that alone imo, especially as it takes provably 10 mins to do on a lift.

And with no lift available? Could you safely put the car on axle stands and use a jack plus some kid of load spreader (aka a plank) to take the weight of the engine while you replace the mounts? Is there enough clearance to torque the bolts properly?

Lots of questions, sorry. It’s just not something I’d considered I could do myself before.

You could hire a ramp for an hour MrPT at one of those places with a few ramps for the public to use. Use a gearbox stand to take the engine once it’s in the air.

Or hire an engine hoist on wheels and chain the engine that way. Planks sound a bit heath Robinson and would be in the way.

[Simon 3.2M]

I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.

Nope, not me.
I changed mine at about 60k for the vt road mounts. Original bolts hadn't backed out at all and the mounts themselves looked absolutely fine.
I can't say I noticed much difference really, although I would say the 2nd gear denial syndrome was definitely improved, so worth it for that alone imo, especially as it takes provably 10 mins to do on a lift.

And with no lift available? Could you safely put the car on axle stands and use a jack plus some kid of load spreader (aka a plank) to take the weight of the engine while you replace the mounts? Is there enough clearance to torque the bolts properly?

Lots of questions, sorry. It’s just not something I’d considered I could do myself before.

I think you can put axle stands on the front, remove the aluminium under tray, undo the mount bolts , jack the engine (place wood in between) swap the mounts and reverse what you've just done. Not sure if I'm over simplifying the procedure but I'm sure others can comment. I'm not sure of torque figures though.