Z4-forum.com

My car needs an alignment doing and have read a few posts about applying the M3 CSL alignment to the Z4m, saying it makes it more neutral and more engaging on the road.

Is this a recommended set up to use on standard M suspension? Do I need to modify anything to accomodate the CSL set up?

Cheers

I've done this to mine, although I'm running the B12 suspension kit.

You wont get the caster angles because of the offset lollipop bushes, and you may need to have the camber pins removed.

Its personal preference at the end of the day. I think it sharpens the car up a little, makes it nicer to drive and easier to chuck about.
A previous forum member who has since left drove my car and his back to back and much preferred the way mine was set up.

I'd say its well worth doing.

Mine too but with Eibach Pro springs.
Transformed my car, good turn in, less jiddish rear end & a lot better/softer suspension.

That’s interesting: I am not too happy with the car’s turn in (also possibly due to Continentals fitted to the front while the back is fitted with Michelin PSS)...
I am also thinking of fitting a strut brace to improve front end feeling.

I guess the CSL alignment settings are known to alignment shops?

Attilio wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:56 am That’s interesting: I am not too happy with the car’s turn in (also possibly due to Continentals fitted to the front while the back is fitted with Michelin PSS)...
I am also thinking of fitting a strut brace to improve front end feeling.

I guess the CSL alignment settings are known to alignment shops?

Will be on the alignment machine

VRSteve wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:18 pm

Attilio wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:56 am That’s interesting: I am not too happy with the car’s turn in (also possibly due to Continentals fitted to the front while the back is fitted with Michelin PSS)...
I am also thinking of fitting a strut brace to improve front end feeling.

I guess the CSL alignment settings are known to alignment shops?

Will be on the alignment machine

Thanks

Thanks all, I'll ask the garage to put my car on the CSL set up

I have decided to change to the B12 set up, but not until early Spring (when funds allow)

In the meantime, if I put on the CSL set up now (with standard M suspension) is removing the camber pins an issue?
Also, if I can't get the caster angles, does that make much of a difference?
Am I better of sticking with the standard M geometry with the M suspension, then changing to CSL when I've got the B12 kit on?

The pins are just for locating the struts, so no issue with removal when having alignment done.

I would try maximum negative camber on the front struts yourself (pull the pins) before anything else. Someone showed me what was involved last year at a meet and I wish I’d known earlier. It’s easy and quick to do, is reversible and will give you more of an idea of what you want to do with the geo when you get it set up properly. For example, you’ll be inadvertently adding a bit of front toe out when you increase the camber, which I’ve not heard any horror stories about (possibly because the stock geo has front toe in), but you may want to then ask for it to be tweaked back to +ve for more stability,p.

The main difference will be that the car will feel like it wants to rotate more keenly, and this might help you form an opinion about what setup you want for the rear, which is not something that’s as easy to experiment with yourself. You could go for the CSL settings, for example, and/or request that rear camber is reduced (e.g. to -1.25) to further neutralise the tendency to understeer that is built into the car from the factory.

You can't go wrong the the csl geo and a strut brace, it makes the car feel like it should have from the factory

Is there any thread, write-up or video on how to remove the strut pins?

Spaniarduk wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:57 pmIs there any thread, write-up or video on how to remove the strut pins?

Molegrips and turn anti-clockwise. They are soft and on a very coarse thread.

srhutch wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 11:10 pm

Spaniarduk wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:57 pmIs there any thread, write-up or video on how to remove the strut pins?

Molegrips and turn anti-clockwise. They are soft and on a very coarse thread.

Simple as that?? Lol I must try it. Are the pins removed from the top or do I need to remove the wheel arch liner to do it from underneath?
I guess all you do afterwards is loosen the 3 nuts fixing the strut to the dome and push them inwards towards the engine bay?

Just remove them from the top. Have the front jacked up, loosen the strut and move them inwards towards the engine.

It takes minutes and makes a big difference. Try it!