Corroded NSR Brake Line

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Fri Apr 03, 2020 2:13 pm

Hi all,

This seems a common issue with these cars, and my NSR needs replacing as it's corroded where it emerges from the plastic cover about 30cm from the NSR wheel arch.

I've read some people cut and join a new cunifer pipe under the cover, but I also wanted to ask since I'd jumped the gun and already purchased an OEM line from BMW, how much labour is involved in a complete replacement from front to rear? I know the NSR doesn't need the prop or fuel tank dropping, so might just go with OEM if doesn't take too long.

Cheers,

Meeko

blobslosak · Post by **blobslosak** » Sat Apr 04, 2020 12:26 pm

I got new lines run in copper front to rear for both sides at the rear last month for MOT. Was 2hrs labour and £20 parts inc fluid.

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:51 am

Were those lines from the ABS pump to the back? 2 hours sounds very quick for that amount of work!

I've now been quoted 6/7 hours for the NSR and 2 hours for a join - both of those estimates sound high to me.

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Mon Apr 06, 2020 1:29 pm

: 3B935FDF-17AC-4A2A-A21A-DFB96EF016A0.jpeg (247.32 KiB) Viewed 1115 times

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BMW provided you with one joint just add a new one

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Mon Apr 06, 2020 1:31 pm

Does the new BME OEM pipe come per shapped?

blobslosak · Post by **blobslosak** » Mon Apr 06, 2020 4:54 pm

Meeko wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:51 am Were those lines from the ABS pump to the back? 2 hours sounds very quick for that amount of work!

I've now been quoted 6/7 hours for the NSR and 2 hours for a join - both of those estimates sound high to me.

No idea, MOT was done prior to sale of the car to me. Fail report says the following so I'm assuming so.

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Mr Tidy · Post by **Mr Tidy** » Mon Apr 06, 2020 7:33 pm

My 2nd E86 had an advisory for the rear brake pipes on it's current MOT when I bought it.

Sure enough when I got it MOT'd it got another advisory!

But I was planning to spend a few days with a friend in Cheshire later that year, so I got them both replaced in copper by "ducklakeview" for £100 - result.

I'm sure he would charge more now as this was before he had premises so it was done in his garage. It took him at least 4 hours though, but just doing the nearside with an OE pipe ought to be much quicker. While I was there I got one of his flip-style keys cut and coded as the car only came with one key.

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:05 pm

PDJ wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 1:29 pm 3B935FDF-17AC-4A2A-A21A-DFB96EF016A0.jpegDD9E0C8B-6C09-4635-83EA-C76F55B490B0.jpeg39B2F4A8-F577-4810-BD52-CD9EF18A315D.jpeg

BMW provided you with one joint just add a new one

So from factory there's a joint? That interesting as the replacement pipe comes as one piece!

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:07 pm

Mr Tidy wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 7:33 pm My 2nd E86 had an advisory for the rear brake pipes on it's current MOT when I bought it.

Sure enough when I got it MOT'd it got another advisory!

But I was planning to spend a few days with a friend in Cheshire later that year, so I got them both replaced in copper by "ducklakeview" for £100 - result.

I'm sure he would charge more now as this was before he had premises so it was done in his garage. It took him at least 4 hours though, but just doing the nearside with an OE pipe ought to be much quicker. While I was there I got one of his flip-style keys cut and coded as the car only came with one key.

That's a bargain! If there is a joint in the NSR pipe, there seems no point at all installing the OEM replacement! May as well just go with cunifer into the existing join.

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Tue Apr 07, 2020 7:42 pm

There is only one factory joint

I made my own joint for the other side cannot remember which side has the factory join

The parts to replace my two rear pipe cost under £30

You would need to buy a brake pipe flailing tool if you don't have one

I am sure I have posted an almost blow by blow picture by picture of how to do this in a couple of threads

If you are going to do this yourself and need some help let me know and I can help you over the internet or phone, I am still working 5 days a week as I am in the food supply chain.

bowser134 · Post by **bowser134** » Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:41 pm

We replaced a N/S/R brake pipe last week. We used a brake pipe flaring tool and a pipe bending tool to get the shape identical to factory.

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:13 pm

PDJ wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 7:42 pm There is only one factory joint

I made my own joint for the other side cannot remember which side has the factory join

The parts to replace my two rear pipe cost under £30

You would need to buy a brake pipe flailing tool if you don't have one

I am sure I have posted an almost blow by blow picture by picture of how to do this in a couple of threads

If you are going to do this yourself and need some help let me know and I can help you over the internet or phone, I am still working 5 days a week as I am in the food supply chain.

Hi PDJ, Thank you so much for the kind offer of help. I think it's a little beyond my comfort zone, as no doubt I'll start the job and find out I need more tools or parts and end up with a car off the road! Thanks again..

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:15 pm

bowser134 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:41 pm We replaced a N/S/R brake pipe last week. We used a brake pipe flaring tool and a pipe bending tool to get the shape identical to factory.

That looks like a great job! I wish you were closer...Was there a factory join you used or did you have to make another? I've booked it in to Mill Lane Automtive BMW specialists who quoted 2-3 hours. Does that sounds about right?

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Thu Apr 09, 2020 12:57 pm

2 to 3 hours for both rear pipes sounds about right

I did both of mine in a morning in the street with a trolly jack and some axle stands on my own

There is one factory join under the black plastic under tray passenger side it is held on with 5 or 6 plastic nuts so you need to make a new joint in the existing pipe which will be in as new condition as it is protected by the plastic under tray

It is best to cut the old pipe where it goes behind the sub frame both sides this is now a straight piece now make a temporary join with a bit or coat hanger wire by putting a bit of this inside the old and new pipe and now you can just push the old pipe out with the new once in this position remove the temp join and make off both new ends

Meeko · Post by **Meeko** » Thu Apr 09, 2020 1:33 pm

Thanks so much for the tips, I'll pass this on to the garage. So in cutting the old pipe where you say, you effectively remove the original joint which will be replaced with the new one? May as well get them to do both sides while they're at it. I just hope they make a good job of it!

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