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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

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flybobbie
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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by flybobbie » Sun May 03, 2020 10:42 am

I have a door lock solenoid lying about, i keep meaning to have a go at fitting on the arm of the boot mechanism that the boot emergency cable should be attached to. Then lead some wires to the cabin where i could in a emergency unlock the boot. I could wire it to the boot switch i bought and fitted, or even take the wire outside the car.

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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by Lazza » Sun May 03, 2020 7:27 pm

Seems like a lot of work just so you can push a boot release button once rather than the central locking button twice.
In fact, I have a feeling that, if you have driven so the doors lock automatic, it’s only one push to unlock the boot.
And it’s a button that’s far easier to reach than the standard boot release button location.
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Smartbear
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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by Smartbear » Sun May 03, 2020 7:36 pm

Lazza wrote: Sun May 03, 2020 7:27 pm Seems like a lot of work just so you can push a boot release button once rather than the central locking button twice.
In fact, I have a feeling that, if you have driven so the doors lock automatic, it’s only one push to unlock the boot.
And it’s a button that’s far easier to reach than the standard boot release button location.
An alternate boot opening method could be worth its weight in gold if the normal method of opening became faulty, no manual key opening on an e89 so you would have a problem! :(
Rob
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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by RobbiZ4 » Sun May 03, 2020 8:30 pm

:(
Last edited by RobbiZ4 on Sat May 23, 2020 8:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pardon, je suis Allemand :oops:
:ant:
E89 Roof Maintenance
viewtopic.php?t=130932

Y3 Roof Diagnostic System
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=129048
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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by Smartbear » Sun May 03, 2020 9:00 pm

RobbiZ4 wrote: Sun May 03, 2020 8:30 pm
Smartbear wrote: Sun May 03, 2020 7:36 pm An alternate boot opening method could be worth its weight in gold if the normal method of opening became faulty, no manual key opening on an e89 so you would have a problem! :(
Rob
Well, even this re-fitted footwell button is controlled by the CAS modul, that is waiting on the CTM in case of a roof failure. Nothing will open as well by pressing this button if there is a roof issue. 8)
I meant flybobbies additional solonoid idea that’s powered by an independent supply?
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e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold

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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by flybobbie » Sun May 03, 2020 9:16 pm

My initial idea was to just trail the wires from the solenoid to the outside of the car, so that remote power could be used to unlatch the boot.
I suppose an emergency back up for boot latch switch failure is the remote key.
I was looking at attaching the solenoid to the white triangle to replicate the hand pull.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEeFPf01714
I will play with it tomorrow.

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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by flybobbie » Mon May 04, 2020 10:30 pm

Trailing wires to outside difficult.
But something i noticed below the boot badge when you lift it is a rubber bump stop.
I pulled it out and the fitting is hollow behind.
I stripped out the boot lining.
The metal is solid behind but looking it could be drilled through with a fine drill.
Then a pull cable attached to the white triangle terminating where the rubber was.

Just seems like a lot of trouble for nothing.

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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by bluetooth » Mon May 11, 2020 11:01 am

Finally, had some time to install my Boot Opening switch on my Z4 E89 28i.

Here are the steps i took to complete same. May not be the same for every model. I Take no responsibility for the instructions, This is my effort and may help others to do the same.

Tools needed

Torx bit to remove the Panel in the driver footwell.
Pliers, snips
Soldering iron
Small heatshrink
Sharp Blade
Insulation tape
Automotive wire.

Parts needed
BMW Genuine Wiring Bushing Contact 0 2-0 5 Mmâ² 61130005201 from Lloyds Carlisle BMW via ebay page. This is used to get the signal to the CAS module.
5 SERIES / BOOT LID OPENER SWITCH WITH PLUG 6921846 - ebay. Standard Item - Important to find one with the plug and wiring as easier to connect to. REALOEM Link item number 5 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showpart ... 1319200316
  • Flexible body of a 15 year old, which i do not have
  • Great eyesight, good flashlight.
  • Lots of Patience if doing this for the first time.
NOTE: Remove the earth lead from the battery
  • Lift steering wheel to its highest position to get as much space as possible
  • Remove 3 Torx screws from Black panel in order to remove the Cover and access the wiring behind the dashboard, In order to remove the footwell cover entirely, 3 further steps are required,
  • Remove the Bluetooth Module,
  • Remove the Speaker cable for Buzzers/Dong
  • Disconnect power cable from Footwell light.
This is where it gets confusing and took me a while to get my bearing. I managed to squeeze into the footwell on my back to view what was up there first hand with a torch.


The first module and cable bank you see is the Footwell Module. It has 2*51 pin plugs.
The CAS Module (A149A) you are looking for is Piggy Back onto the footwell module but is recessed so unable to see until you remove the 2 * 51 plugs from the Footwell module. These can be removed by pressing a little plastic spring at the top of the plug and sliding the locking lever to the side. They remove easily

Having disconnected the plugs for the Footwell module, I could see the 41 pin connector X13376 for the CAS (A149A). Same process as above to remove this plug. There is also a Ribbon connector X10318 which I think feeds to the Dash but this does not need to be removed.

you also need to remove the cover from the X13776 plug in order to insert the new connector into PIN location 39. This slides out from one side.

Refer to https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... m/BtXFbKuT for the PIN definition of the X13376

Refer to X13376 connector layout schema at https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... 6/CTVJiEMv

Refer to https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... a/CTBq4FXm for the Switch connector

On my switch, Pins 1, 2, 3 have connection,
Pin 1 is 12 V
Pin 2 is Ground
Pin 3 is FEM signal which connects to the CAS Plug position 39. (using the BMW Genuine Wiring Bushing Contact 0 2-0 5 Mmâ² 61130005201 from Lloyds Carlisle BMW) See below

I used the +12V and GND from the X13376 connector to connect to my switch.
12V at PIN 34
Ground at PIN 12
FEM signal from Pin 39 (This is the signal back to the CAS to trigger the boot latch to open.
  • I Inserted the new Pigtail from BMW Carlisle into location 39 on the X13376 and connected this to PIN 3 on my Switch
  • I attached my 12 V from PIN 34 to pin 1 on the Switch
  • I attached my Ground PIN 12 to Pin 2 on the switch
How you connect to the cable loom at X13376 is your own preference, I spliced and soldered/insulated each connection. My Preference.

I used a meter to ensure connectivety to the switch before reconnecting.

In reverse order
  • Tidy cables.
  • Reassemble the cover and Reconnect X13376 to the CAS Module
  • Reconnect both connectors to the footwell module
  • Re attach the GND Lead to the Battery
  • TEST, TEST, TEST and all going well, IT WILL WORK
  • Re attach the Bluetooth, Speaker and Power cables to the Footwell and re attach.
Nurse your back and Have a beer or two


Lessons learnt

Would have been great to have found alternate 12v switched source with ignition, The LED in the switch is on constantly. It is so low in power/visibility, I hope it will not create problems with power drain. If it does I can remove as the FEM signal is a GROUND Connection so no power is needed. It would also have been good to access the ambient light power but the connection to this is under the passenger floor and other web articles have advised against.

Great article from RobbiZ4 on https://www.zroadster.com/forum/threads ... st-2745359

Take pictures next time......
2015 E89 28i Msport Auto - Mineral Grey metallic...

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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by RobbiZ4 » Tue May 12, 2020 7:39 am

:(
Last edited by RobbiZ4 on Sat May 23, 2020 8:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pardon, je suis Allemand :oops:
:ant:
E89 Roof Maintenance
viewtopic.php?t=130932

Y3 Roof Diagnostic System
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=129048
Image

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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by sw4nny » Tue May 12, 2020 8:18 am

bluetooth wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 11:01 am Finally, had some time to install my Boot Opening switch on my Z4 E89 28i.

Here are the steps i took to complete same. May not be the same for every model. I Take no responsibility for the instructions, This is my effort and may help others to do the same.

Tools needed

Torx bit to remove the Panel in the driver footwell.
Pliers, snips
Soldering iron
Small heatshrink
Sharp Blade
Insulation tape
Automotive wire.

Parts needed
BMW Genuine Wiring Bushing Contact 0 2-0 5 Mmâ² 61130005201 from Lloyds Carlisle BMW via ebay page. This is used to get the signal to the CAS module.
5 SERIES / BOOT LID OPENER SWITCH WITH PLUG 6921846 - ebay. Standard Item - Important to find one with the plug and wiring as easier to connect to. REALOEM Link item number 5 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showpart ... 1319200316
  • Flexible body of a 15 year old, which i do not have
  • Great eyesight, good flashlight.
  • Lots of Patience if doing this for the first time.
NOTE: Remove the earth lead from the battery
  • Lift steering wheel to its highest position to get as much space as possible
  • Remove 3 Torx screws from Black panel in order to remove the Cover and access the wiring behind the dashboard, In order to remove the footwell cover entirely, 3 further steps are required,
  • Remove the Bluetooth Module,
  • Remove the Speaker cable for Buzzers/Dong
  • Disconnect power cable from Footwell light.
This is where it gets confusing and took me a while to get my bearing. I managed to squeeze into the footwell on my back to view what was up there first hand with a torch.


The first module and cable bank you see is the Footwell Module. It has 2*51 pin plugs.
The CAS Module (A149A) you are looking for is Piggy Back onto the footwell module but is recessed so unable to see until you remove the 2 * 51 plugs from the Footwell module. These can be removed by pressing a little plastic spring at the top of the plug and sliding the locking lever to the side. They remove easily

Having disconnected the plugs for the Footwell module, I could see the 41 pin connector X13376 for the CAS (A149A). Same process as above to remove this plug. There is also a Ribbon connector X10318 which I think feeds to the Dash but this does not need to be removed.

you also need to remove the cover from the X13776 plug in order to insert the new connector into PIN location 39. This slides out from one side.

Refer to https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... m/BtXFbKuT for the PIN definition of the X13376

Refer to X13376 connector layout schema at https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... 6/CTVJiEMv

Refer to https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... a/CTBq4FXm for the Switch connector

On my switch, Pins 1, 2, 3 have connection,
Pin 1 is 12 V
Pin 2 is Ground
Pin 3 is FEM signal which connects to the CAS Plug position 39. (using the BMW Genuine Wiring Bushing Contact 0 2-0 5 Mmâ² 61130005201 from Lloyds Carlisle BMW) See below

I used the +12V and GND from the X13376 connector to connect to my switch.
12V at PIN 34
Ground at PIN 12
FEM signal from Pin 39 (This is the signal back to the CAS to trigger the boot latch to open.
  • I Inserted the new Pigtail from BMW Carlisle into location 39 on the X13376 and connected this to PIN 3 on my Switch
  • I attached my 12 V from PIN 34 to pin 1 on the Switch
  • I attached my Ground PIN 12 to Pin 2 on the switch
How you connect to the cable loom at X13376 is your own preference, I spliced and soldered/insulated each connection. My Preference.

I used a meter to ensure connectivety to the switch before reconnecting.

In reverse order
  • Tidy cables.
  • Reassemble the cover and Reconnect X13376 to the CAS Module
  • Reconnect both connectors to the footwell module
  • Re attach the GND Lead to the Battery
  • TEST, TEST, TEST and all going well, IT WILL WORK
  • Re attach the Bluetooth, Speaker and Power cables to the Footwell and re attach.
Nurse your back and Have a beer or two


Lessons learnt

Would have been great to have found alternate 12v switched source with ignition, The LED in the switch is on constantly. It is so low in power/visibility, I hope it will not create problems with power drain. If it does I can remove as the FEM signal is a GROUND Connection so no power is needed. It would also have been good to access the ambient light power but the connection to this is under the passenger floor and other web articles have advised against.

Great article from RobbiZ4 on https://www.zroadster.com/forum/threads ... st-2745359

Take pictures next time......
You talents my friend are wasted,if you can go to that trouble and do all that magic to fit a boot switch,you should be working on finding a vaccine for the flu that seems to be going around :)
The only thing i understood was nurse your back and have a beer. :thumbsup:
E85 3.oi titan silver,Maldives blue E85 3.0i gone but not forgotten

bluetooth
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Boot opening (from inside the cockpit - like e85)

Post by bluetooth » Tue May 12, 2020 9:51 am

RobbiZ4 - I had read your article and decided against the ambient light route X1019. Time will tell. :thumbsup:

Sw4nny....it was not that complicated once you have great articles from members on this forum and others.... :thumbsup:

:driving: be safe..
2015 E89 28i Msport Auto - Mineral Grey metallic...

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