e89 roof problem

[Ole gits rule]

Gents,

I know tis has been done a million times, I have a roof issue.

Went out earlier for a blast, roof dropped fine off the key (smart top), drove out of the lane and had a bong with roof system showing, this stopped and drove for an hour.

Went into a shop and raised the roof with no issues, then dropped the roof and had the bong of death but the roof was locked in place.

Drove home, roof went up and the boot went down, but the windows would not come up at all - red light flashing on the dash switches, lowered and raised the roof a few times and the windows will not raise.

As the boot drops in either lower or raise cycle it appears to lock in place but I can hear the hydraulic motor running continually which has caused the hydraulic system to get hot (no issue once cooled).

What is the most likely cause - micro switches / hall sensors or wiring loom damage?

Cheers
OGR

[SV8Predator]

What is the most likely cause - micro switches / hall sensors or wiring loom damage?

There are literally umpteen threads on this sort of problem!

[RobbiZ4]

I'd say, same story as the following on the other Z4 channel:
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1843991

[Ole gits rule]

What is the most likely cause - micro switches / hall sensors or wiring loom damage?

There are literally umpteen threads on this sort of problem!

As I said done a million times - was looking for where to start

[Ole gits rule]

I'd say, same story as the following on the other Z4 channel:
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1843991

Thanks Robbie - will start with these when I get chance, car locked in my neighbours garage for now

[Argyll Andy]

I'd say, same story as the following on the other Z4 channel:
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1843991

Thanks Robbie - will start with these when I get chance, car locked in my neighbours garage for now

He’ll give you it back when you release his sheep and he knows they’re safe

Hope the roof issue is an easyish fix

[Ole gits rule]

I'd say, same story as the following on the other Z4 channel:
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1843991

Thanks Robbie - will start with these when I get chance, car locked in my neighbours garage for now

He’ll give you it back when you release his sheep and he knows they’re safe

Hope the roof issue is an easyish fix

Its ok, he cant get his ride on out of the garage with my car parked there and he doesn't have a key to the zed and trust me he will need that before I need the car

Me too, got an RAC warranty on it so lets see how good that is shall we

Will use a BMW init close by - will call him on Monday

[PointedMarlin]

Bummer OGR

I’m down your neck of the woods (ish) on Monday & Tuesday as I have a removal company taking some stuff down to the holiday home

Probably won’t be in the Zed as might need the boot space of the Range Rover for other stuff

[Pondrew]

Sean your scenario sounds a classic one for it being the bootlid microswitches, or probably just one of them but it's almost impossible to find out which one so change both.
It is a really simple DIY job, trying to find something the right length to hold the bootlid open while doing the job was the hardest part for me!

Sopers of Lincoln (01522)690000 will supply both switches for £33.00 posted, part numbers:54377228585 and 54377228586.

As your car is pre LCI you may need additional connector plugs, as they changed them in circa 2013 (dealer can tell you this).

There are several threads on here detailing exactly where the switches are and how to do the job.

Les

[Deebs]

I use Sopers of Lincoln also. If you mention you are a member of this forum they give you a 10% discount

[Ole gits rule]

Bummer OGR

I’m down your neck of the woods (ish) on Monday & Tuesday as I have a removal company taking some stuff down to the holiday home

Probably won’t be in the Zed as might need the boot space of the Range Rover for other stuff

Which part of sunny Wales are you visiting?

OGR

[Ole gits rule]

Sean your scenario sounds a classic one for it being the bootlid microswitches, or probably just one of them but it's almost impossible to find out which one so change both.
It is a really simple DIY job, trying to find something the right length to hold the bootlid open while doing the job was the hardest part for me!

Sopers of Lincoln (01522)690000 will supply both switches for £33.00 posted, part numbers:54377228585 and 54377228586.

As your car is pre LCI you may need additional connector plugs, as they changed them in circa 2013 (dealer can tell you this).

There are several threads on here detailing exactly where the switches are and how to do the job.

Les

Hi Les,

Had the RAC out this morning, Battery all ok, no faults showing at all so he thinks its an alignment issue but the boot looks closed to me and I can't see how it will close anymore.

After an hour of messing around, the thing is finally closed and windows went up.

Feels like a micro switch to me so going to start there next week by calling Sopers and reading up on the job

[Ole gits rule]

I use Sopers of Lincoln also. If you mention you are a member of this forum they give you a 10% discount

Cheers, good info

[Pondrew]

Sounds definitely like the microswitches.

The microswitches don't stop or affect the mechanical actions. Your boot will be closing and locking but if either of the microswitches are not making (or more likely not sending a signal because one or both is knacked), the next "stage" can't happen, as it thinks the boot is not shut. That's what the microswitches do, they essentially tell the computer that the next stage can now happen as everything is OK with the current stage.
The switches are momentary. They are normally open, then close when the switch is pushed, then open when fully pressed. So it is a very quick blip of a signal as the cams seal and lock the bootlid.
From what I can gather, the odd behaviour is when one switch fails but the other is OK, therefore it gets a signal, but not a signal from both which confuses the feck out of it. Each stage of the process is also timed, so if something is not right and you keep pressing the button, it will "time out" and throw a fault and of course a bong and the dreaded flashing red light.

All the above is from my own experience, info gleaned from on here, pulling a good switch apart and testing it and a bit of "Les Logic" thrown in.

[RobbiZ4]

As your car is pre LCI you may need additional connector plugs, as they changed them in circa 2013 (dealer can tell you this).

That is not required.
I always cut/break out the new housings, pull out the 2 pins very carefully(!), remove the green seals, re-crimp each pin to a smaller diameter and plug it into the old housings of the dismounted microswitch.
Takes about 5 additional minutes for both microswitches, costs nothing.